dennhop

New driveshaft is in, its 1.75 in longer, so it sits further in, and its straight. No more wobble, no more vibration. Ts good to have my beast up and running again!

I would think that there probably would be a slight knock, due to not getting enough fuel at the right time of the injector event, thus creating a knock as the injectors popped off at the wrong time...Kind of like when you have a fuel leak, and the truck is running rough. Wouldn't be enough to create the rough idle, but just enough to create a slight knock. Although it's hard to diagnose a knock on the 12v/early 24v's, since they are kinda noisy anyway! I'm wondering if you had too much of a restriction in your line with your in tank pump going bad, that caused the other stock replacement to burn out quicker...It's better off to not replace the stock pumps with more stockers. It's one of those things, where if something goes out on my truck, I tend to pay the extra money and upgrade, if possible, so I don't have to do it again anytime soon. Personally, as far as getting to the tank, I would much rather take out the bed bolts, especially if you have anything more than 1/8th of a tank. You don't actually have to remove the entire bed, I lifted the front of mine about 1-2 feet, and held it in place with some cribbing, while I messed with all of my fuel lines when I installed the Airdog on my 01. Remember, we have 34 gallon tanks on these trucks, and IIRC, diesel is 6lbs per gallon...the tank itself probably only weights maybe 20-30 lbs dry, but when you start adding 5-10 gallons of diesel left in it, you're talking about supporting 60-100 lbs while you lower it and lift it back up, if you're not completely dry. I'd much rather lift the bed up with a cherry picker, or use 3 friends to lift the bed up and move it to work on the truck. A case of beer as payment is far easier to carry out of the store than to lower a full tank of diesel!

Mine is similar...I still see a small fluctuation in the needle, very minimal, but it's still there...needle valve is tightened as far as I can go without actually cutting off the flow. I know if I pushed the test fitting back further from the pump, I could dampen quite a bit of the pulses, but since I've got a tapped feed fitting going into the pump itself, I can't afford to get the hose and fittings right now to fix it. I'm sure the pulses from the P7100 aren't helping any, as stock, it feeds it in from the sides, and flows through the passages created by the plungers in the pump as they lift and close. That same feeding that causes the pulses to the FP gauges is the same reason why I chose to dual feed my pump, from the front and the side, in order to help keep from starving the front two cylinders of the pump.

I know its not ideal by any means, unfortunately, unless I ship it somewhere to have it checked out, I don't have another choice locally...and because of work, driving anywhere over 30 minutes during the week is out of the question....I can only hope they can check it... - - - Updated - - - The machine shop called me back today, said I needed a new driveshaft...They had it on the lathe still, when I showed up with the payment. Turned it on, and there was an obvious wobble in the end of the shaft...don't know whether it was bent, twisted, or what, but it was definitely bad. They're building me a new one, balanced for $250. I know my neighbor has used them before, and he didn't have any issues with the ones they built him, so hopefully it works. I can't afford to spend any more than that right now anyway...pretty well tapped out in the bank account between the transfer case and this.

Went for a test drive today, sans rear driveshaft. Got up to 4th gear, everything was driving smooth, so I'm pretty sure now its the shaft. my next challenge now is to find a machine shop here local that can test it...hopefully find one on Monday and get the shaft dropped off.

So today started out great...got all the parts this morning, and went out this afternoon to put it all together, for the last time. New bolts in the transmission, to bolt the transmission to the bellhousing. Found the right size, and they went it tight. Replaced the Ujoint on the back of the rear driveshaft, at the pinion, as I didn't like what I was dealing with before. Ujoint went on perfectly. Filled up the transfer case with new fluid, no leaks, everything was tight. Went over everything one last time to ensure that I hadn't forgotten anything. Went for the test drive. Had a little bit of wobble at first, I attributed that to the fact that the MT's have been sitting for almost a month now, I'm not used to them, and the truck ran rougher than the Jeep. NOT the case.At higher speeds, the vibration seemed to get worse, then taper off, but as it tapered off, it is now being replaced by a noise...almost sounds like a rattling noise. My best guess right now is the clutch...especially considering that the transmission had to have been slamming back and forth into and out of the bellhousing, with only one bolt holding it in place. I can't think of anything else in the truck that would sound like that. The only thing is, the clutch shifts perfectly, engages and disengages, and even when I push in on the clutch, I can still feel the vibration as well as sometimes hear the noise. I know I gotta get the driveshaft checked, I'm just wondering, could the clutch have gotten warped, and if it could have, would it be causing a driveline vibration? I'm really getting tired of having to do all the work to it in the dirt outside the garage, because it doesn't fit in the garage...

Wait, what? I'm not supposed to pack my brake calipers with grease? Thought you were supposed to pack them just like a wheel bearing?

Pretty sure I just now figured out what's been turning my tcases into an expensive lunchbox.... Don't have any pics, but the mounting bolts that hold the trans to the bellhousing- The bottom one on the drivers side was good, the top one on the drivers side had backed itself out, and was hanging out with the clutch slave cylinder tubing, the top passenger side had sheared the head off, and the bottom passenger side, well, let's just say its MIA... I'm pretty sure a liberal application of antiseize, and torqueing exactly to spec and not checking it later by the PO is exactly what caused this....They will not be getting antiseize this time, it will be Loctite, and I'm installing them the same way I did it on my truck-with the impact, till it stops. and then bump it a few more seconds. I've never had one back out that way.

A few years ago, I had my 24V, ran an Edge Comp/TST Comp stack...it was downright scary! (in a good way). The TST Comp on level 6 at least as far as the seat of the pants went was almost comparable to the PowerMax 3 on LVL 9. It definitely changes the fueling curve, much more aggressive, and being able to run the Smarty, as opposed to the Edge, having more timing adjustments, definitely will help out quite a bit. It's a great stack, the TST Comp is really going to be a fun mod.

It cant be anything to the front of the tcase affecting it, as I'm running a free spin conversion, so the front drive train isn't moving at all at speed. Its looking more and more like I may be going with a new tcase...rock auto has the cheapest price for a remanufactured one; I priced a rebuild kit, rear housing, and complete two piece tail shaft from Quad 4x4, and it was about the same as a reman from Rock Auto. I did try to find a new two piece rear driveshaft, for a 2500 manual with the DLD, but I came up dry. I'm going to pull the driveshaft tomorrow, and look at the slipyokes, to see if there's any difference in length. With mine being the two piece tail shaft, the spline count and OD of the output shaft between the DHD and the DLD are the same. If I had a one piece tail housing DHD (1997 models only, with the speedo gear on the tail housing) the output shaft would be bigger, with a different slipyoke.

I'm not 100% sure, but I'm pretty positive it's due to the fact that I lost 4 Lo last year trying to yank out a couple guys from the marsh...I never got it fixed, since 4 hi still worked, and i didn't have the money at the time. Now I'm regretting it. My guess is that the chain worked it's way loose, or something came off inside, and decided to come out.I guess I'm going to have to get the driveshaft checked for straightness, to make sure it's not bent, and either look at a new T Case or hope I can find a longer slipyoke. Apparently, finding a new, 2 piece factory driveshaft for a DLD trans is almost impossible...I thought maybe I could convert back to stock for a bit, and allow myself the time to rebuild/replace the DHD. Guess that's not happening...

That's what I was afraid of...I'm assuming the DHD and the DLD slipyokes are the same length? I do have a DLD slipyoke. Otherwise, it looks like I'm buying a new DHD, since I've got a 1 piece drive shaft. No lengthening that.

So my NP241 DHD, with the two piece tailhousing decided to grenade- Buddy sent me a DLD to put in for the time being. I installed it, and noticed that the two retaining notches on the pinion yoke had sheared off...I figured it may or may not hold, with the ujoint straps, but I tried to drive it into work...and promptly slung the driveshaft off. The ujoint caps flung off, and the driveshaft dropped. So, I drove it home in 4 wheel drive, and parked it. Ordered a new pinion yoke from Rock Auto, and overnighted it. Got it installed tonight, new ujoint, and got the driveshaft in. I took it for a test drive, and I now have a bad vibration as soon as I hit 3rd gear, before I really get into it...under light acceleration, it starts getting bad. in 1st and 2nd, as long as I'm out of the throttle, it's ok, but as soon as I start to get speed, the vibration gets worse. I tried taking a video of the rear pinion, and it's hopefully loading to youtube right now, so I'll get the link up. edit: I noticed 2 things tonight and thought of a 3rd, that could potentially be a problem- 1. When I installed the ujoint in the driveshaft, for the pinion yoke, I couldn't get the ears to loosen back up. I tried the normal-hit the ears with a hammer, to loosen the joint back, but that failed. I figured I'd throw it in and drive it easy, to see if it would loosen up. I'll have to pull it again to see if it does. 2. The DLD is definitely shorter than the DHD... I took pictures to show how much the slipyoke fits on the Tcase output shaft-it's about 1.5 inches. The 3rd thing I thought of, was could I have unbalanced the Dshaft when it slung out? I'm at a loss right now. Been driving the wife's Jeep to work, so we're down to one vehicle until I can get this figured out. The gears shift fine, truck rolls smoothly at low speed, I just can't figure out what's going on with this thing.

Tork tek is the company name, they manufacture aftermarket ofvs. I've ran a few of their ofv over the years, and necer had a single issue with any of them. Pretty darn cheap too considering

As far as I knew, I was pretty accurate...I know my buddy who rebuilt the tranny for me ran his SnapOn diag tool on the tranny, when I was having issues similar to Rogan, and when he got to the tranny temp portion, it was pretty darn close, if not dead on what the gauge was reading.

You know the worst part about being in a vehicle where you have to float the gears because the clutch is trashed, is to everyone else, you look like an idiot trying to learn how to drive a stick...especially at stop signs where you have to shut the vehicle off, and restart it in 1st gear until it starts rolling!

I had one of these on my 97- never had any issues with it, and super easy to install move, etc. http://www.genosgarage.com/ACU-TEMP-ADAPTER-89-12/productinfo/ACUTEMP_ADAPTER/ cheap pricing too...

If you can still find an ISSPRO EV gauge, it should be mechanical, but the EV2 line is all electronic. With a good needle valve setup, you shouldn't be too bad. I've been able to keep almost all the bounce out of mine, with a needle valve set tight. Like MoparMan said, I wish DiPricol was still in business...had a set of them in one of my old trucks and loved them. Personally, while you can run a 35 psi gauge, I would recommend at least considering a 60lb boost gauge just in case later on you decide to upgrade turbos and injectors...otherwise you'll be maxed out on the 35 lb gauge and have to buy a new one. I've got the EV2's, and so far I'm pretty happy with the.. the graphics are a bit bigger than they were on my DiPricols, but I'm starting to get used to them.Edit: mechanical gauges tend to be more reliable overall....less to worry about going wrong...if some things not working, you usually can tell if its a restriction in the sending line or if there is actually something wrong with the system.

It's a pretty chitty situation for him, as he has a job, is working, and trying to pay off his college loans for this job he just started...he moved out. She still lives in the house, and the agreement was that she was going to put the house on the market. That never happened, and she also stopped paying the mortgage. She's been asking for more money from him-not sure why, since she's not paying the mortgage, and not working...but she is making him pay for everything...including the vacation she's planning on taking in September.As far as the kids go, they originally worked out a deal, where they would each have them for a week, trading off...except now she's been deciding when she wants to drop them off, or when he has to take them back...and it's usually a day or two late on her part, and a day or two early on his part. Again, no one there is completely innocent (as far as the adult parties go), but the psychiatrist involved has decided that it was "better" for the kids to live at the house where they grew up-despite the fact that she was supposed to be selling it, and now is about to have it foreclosed. The Judge actually told him that he really doesn't care what happens, and just wants it over, and his lawyer pretty much is expecting him to settle to her terms, so he isn't doing squat, but he locked him into a contract somehow. I would imagine that his inactions would be a breach of contract, but I was hoping someone knew a lawyer in Michigan that would at least be willing to talk to him about the situation. The worst part of it all is that he is by far the better parent-the ex on multiple occasions has forgotten that their daughter was at school, and needed a ride home, and never picked her up-despite the fact that she stayed at home; causing him to have to leave work early to go pick her up. There's other issues too, but from the looks of it, he's about to get hosed for life, and possibly lose the kids too. I'm willing to bet money though, she's manipulative, but not that smart, so I'd be willing to bet my next paycheck that parents have been putting her up to this...they've been trying to get them divorced, and gain sole custody of the kids for years now. The whole situation pisses me off, but unfortunately, I'm not in a position to do anything about it at all-I think thats the worst part about it for me. When one of my other brother-in-laws was going through a nasty divorce-she started cheating on him a month or two after they got married-and she started trying to get nasty with him, I actually called her up at midnight, and pretty much told her to pack sand. Her mom was trying to get him to pay them back for the wedding gift, and when I got into her about that, she tried to tell me it was none of my business. I replied that it was as much my business as it was her mom's, and if she didn't like it, I'd call her mom right then and there and tell her as much.My brother just got divorced a year ago-his wife decided she was done, and refused to leave with him-then posted it all over facebook that he had left her. When I got the whole story from her, I called her up and blasted her. (It's not as effective over the phone, but I still felt better. I've gotten it to an art now, where if I do have to yell at someone, I have to try NOT to make them start crying...I guess that's what 13 years in the Marine Corps does to you, lol)Sorry, long post, longer rant, just hoping to find someone else he can talk to that may be able to help his situation out, and if not, at least vent to some people who may have been through that before. Sad thing is, this could all have been avoided had there been a bit more give and take on her side...he realized he had a problem, and tried to go to counseling, to get it fixed...she refused, and refused to admit that she also had an issue. Now the kids pay. My wife and I learned a long time ago, there are some things you just have to learn to work around...but always talk about it. We still get into arguments, but I always make it a point to walk away when I start to really get mad...it saves me from saying something stupid that I"m going to regret later. I'll go out to the garage, and mess out there until we're both calmed down, and then come back in and we talk it out then. Plus, we've learned to give each other our own space and time...if she's out with her friends shopping, I don't call her unless its an emergency...there's nothing that the kids do that I can't take care of. Same with her. If I go out hunting, fishing, or whatever, I won't get a call from her. It amazes a lot of people that we don't constantly bug each other when we're out-but we know why, and we try to look out for each other.

My Brother in law is going through a pretty nasty divorce right now, and without knowing all the details, I'm getting them second hand right now, but from what I gather, his lawyer, the judge, and the psychiatrist involved all pretty much told hiom they don't give a rats ___ what happens...but his wife is trying to taken him for everything, mainly because she doesn't want t work, and wants him to pay for everything. There are two sides to every story, but supposedly his lawyer, who hasn't done anything for him, has somehow locked him into a contract of sorts. I'm just wondering if anyone on here is or knows a good family lawyer who might be able to at least talk to him one time, if nothing else...court costs, and all the other crap hes having to pay for right now is bleeding him dry. Main reason I'm asking is hes got two kids...which IMHO, he's a hell of a better parent than the soon to be ex...

PM sent...might help, hopefully.

Just went to a Redhead box, off of an old worn out PSC box...night and day difference for the few days I've driven it...

Turbos were the only thing that changed at that time....however, I did realize I was starving the truck for fuel, so I increased the preboost fuel screw amount on the back of the AFC. However, its going to be a bit before I can test it out, as my tcase decided to explode yesterday.....

For those who are interested, I just did this, and ordered the kit with the DVD also...if anyone's interested in viewing the video, I could probably work something out. And I can walk you through it for anyone who hasn't done it before pretty easily, just give me a call. - - - Updated - - - Oh, and BTW Mike, I've pretty much realized that all the kits are the same price, no matter which company you go with, just so you know.

It's kinda hard to watch all the gauges, but best I can tell, the primary is running consistently up with the secondary, so if I'm at 20 primary/55 secondary, I'm pretty much at 10 primary/27 secondary. I'm NOT happy with the EGT's though. EGT's are still running up faster than they should, and I can't get the boost past 55...before I was pegging and wrapping a 60 lb gauge. I installed a needle valve into the wastegate reference line, so I need to keep playing with that, and seeing if I can get that tuned in. I honestly have no idea what the wastegate is opening at on the secondary...I need to check that out. Drive pressure is still pretty much a 1:1 ratio though.