dorkweed

A new, heavier duty clutch. Slipped a few times now with the Juice turned up!!! :burnout Gonna go with the SouthBend Con OFE. It's good to 450HP and 1000ft.lbs That'll be plenty for me. Hope to get the clutch done next month!! :thumbsup

Of the tires I listed all have had poor reviews on the various websites. Except the Toyo M55!! It's gotten great reviews no matter what site I've been on. Only problem is they are 25% higher in price than the others!!I tend to be fairly easy on tires. Even though I tow most everyday of the week, I'm easy on tires. I don't want to go to a Mud Tire hence my choices. Thanx!!!

It's running $3.39-3.69 in my parts!!! I may look into getting a small motorcycle/scooter just for running errands and stuff!!

Yes!!!! Do tell, do tell!!!! :thumbsup

What's everyone running??? I still have the OEM Michelin AS on my 04.5. They're wearing real well; I've got 70,000 miles on them and I think I can go another 30,000 easily. They do suck in snow and mud, fair on wet pavement, good on dry gravel roads and great on dry roads. I'd like an AT type tire in the STOCK size when I replace these. I want the stock size because I tow most everyday of the week. My choices from my research thus far are BFG All Terrain TA, ProComp AT, Cooper S/T, Toyo M55, or Toyo OC AT. What do you all think? I'm a cheap *** and I'm gonna run these tires until they're bald. Probably replace them before next winter. Thanks!! :cheers

I scored an 82%!!! When I was done I though I aced it!!! :smart Guess not!!! `

MnTom doesn't need to run it because Minnesooooooooota has a 2% (I believe) bio mandate on diesel fuel sold for over the road vehicles. Wonder how that's gonna work out over the winter??!!!

I used the pretty blue colored RTV!!! LOL B)

By 6.0h, I'm guessing you have a Ford. I'd say; that as long as you don't have a DPF in the exhaust, go for it. Let us know how she runs.........if she runs, being a Ford and all!!!! > > LOL

Mike, my MotorGuard has been on now for over 1.5 years and no leaks from the STHB at the oil pan. STHB is an acronym for "Self Tapping Hollow Bolt"!! Believe me when I say that it's not gonna come out unless I take it out!!! You use a tapered punch to make the hole in the pan for the STHB. Punching the pan pushes metal toward the inside of the pan for more threads and thus more "bite" to hold it. It's truly a very neat way to do it. The STHB has a rubber gasket on it so it won't leak; however, I added some RTV sealant just to make sure!!! :thumbsup Like I said earlier, it ain't coming out unless I take it out!! How do I post pictures. I post a picture or two of my set up!!

That's why I love my MotorGuard TP bypass!!! Very, very few drips and runs!!! I have the return line tapped into the oil pan so that the bypass will drain when the truck is shut down!! It makes for very neat TP changes and oil additions!!! I truly don't understand everyones aversion to tapping the oil pan when running a bypass oil filter!!! It's not difficult and make the change outs a breeze!!!

I usually just clear out the garage so I can "pull her in"!!! I'm gonna put by boat in storage for the winter, so I'll have lot's of room in the garage!! Other than that, not too much. Never have had need for the winter front. My truck will kick into high idle if the temps are low enough or the truck get cold enough when running.

Sure glad it was on your end and not mine. I couldn't get on for almost 2 days!! :Mad :Mad

Simple pleasures for simple minds!!!! LOL LOL Just kidding!!!! :thumbsup Maiden, you need to spend more time with the boy!!!! > >

Am I dumb???? I can't seem to figure this thing out!!!! :?:

Y'all could also consider a Walbro pump with the appropriater regulator for the psi you want or need. These little Walbro's are incredible little pumps.

If it rattles when you pick the bottle up; it's probably "snake oil"!!! :smart Any bio-based fuel additive has less btu's/oz than regular #2. So without seeing the bottle or the MSDS of the product, you're on you own there, Bud!!!

I voted YES so that we can bash them!!!! > > Just kidding!!!! :thumbsup

I don't know anything about auto trannys. But from what I've read, and since you're pulling 12,000lbs, I would say get an updated torque converter and valve body. I think I'd do it just for "peace of mind". That's a lot of weight to pull with a "marginal" tranny.

Mike, that 100k mile thing when stuff goes South is usually just after the warranty expires!!!! I really do think that if most of the posters truly knew how engines work, they wouldn't post the questions that they do. I've never seen a 2 stroke engine gummed up or carboned up. If it is gummed up or carboned up, it wasn't running properly and it wasn't the oil that caused the problem. Same holds true for our diesels. The ratio we're mixing is really, really thin. 128:1 is recommended. Most 2 stroke engines run at 32:1, 40:1 or 50:1 like my Evinrude outboard on my boat. If these high revving engines can survive with only the oil in the fuel as internal lubrication, it can't be bad for our fuel systems at the ratios we run. Just my .02 cents!!

I've actually dropped my 2 stroke amount to 16oz/1gal because many of the stations around me are anywhere from 2-11%bio. However,on my hunting trip to North Dakota, my truck got great mileage even loaded to the gills and pulling a small 5x8 trailer. Don't know that I'd be a good choice to experiment because of the bio-surprise I may or may not get at the pump!!!

For anyone interested, I've got the 04.5 listed in my signature. I've been running 2 stroke oil in her now for almost 1.5 years and 30,000+ miles. No problems at all. No gummed up injectors, no carboned up injectors, no frozen fuel in cold weather and none of the other crazy fears thrown out there about using this stuff in your fuel. What I have seen is a smoother idle and high speed operation. I've also seen about a .5-1 mpg increase in fuel mileage since I starting using the 2 stroke. I've always had a smooth and quiet 3rd generation truck also!! But the oil makes it even more quiet!!! I just got back from a week long hunting trip to North Dakota. We obviously took my truck because it has 4 doors and can haul a trailer rather economically!!! Anyhow, 4 guys in my truck, 2 dogs in crates in the back along with anything assorted equipment we could fit back there. In back of that we towed a 5x8 very stought single axle open top trailer that was loaded to the gills with gear. If I had to guess, I'd bet our GVW would've been about 12,000lbs. A couple of my hunting buds are pushing 3 spins on the scale!!! All that said, the fuel mileage for our trip was as follows: tank 1....19.1mpg, tank 2....18.7mpg, tank 3....16.6mpg, tank 4....18.9mpg. I still am running tank 5 now, as we filled up only about 100 miles from home. Until I hitched my work trailer up to her, she was reading 20.3mpg on the overhead, which is quite accurate. All these tanks had 2 stroke oil added to them. The highway speeds were kept at about 70mph and the hunting area speeds averaged 40-60mph on the better gravel roads!!!!! All that said, I USE my truck for what it was designed for. I tow most everyday of the week. In fact, my truck had my work trailer behind her the day after I drove her off the lot!!! I don't know where this gummed up/carboned up injectors crap comes from........at least for me. Probably from folks that take there truck to the train station and take the train to work!!!! :rolleyes Anyway, that's my story. :thumbsup

For all those who are concerned about running 2 stroke oil, I have this to say.........Many of you probably have never pulled apart a 2 cycle engine; one designed to run on anywhere from 32:1 to 50:1 of fuel to oil have you?????? Well I've taken apart many, and have never, ever seen deposits, carbon, gunk whatever you want to call it anywhere in the combustion chamber of a well maintained, properly running 2 cycle engine. If anything, most people add TOO MUCH oil to these engines and cause the air/fuel mixture to be over rich in oil. I've never seen a "carboned" up spark plug from a 2 cycle engine that was properly maintained. Even improperly maintained, the spark plug tends to be wet with oil and not "carboned" up as many of you think!!! Where this carboned up stuff and gunking up of injectors and such comes from is beyond me. The heat from a diesel engine should burn away any deposits (if there to start) in the cylinder and keep any from forming. Much moreso than in a gasser. If you've got carboned up injectors, you're not working your Cummins truck hard enough. And a full throttle zip from a stop sign is not working the mighty Cummins either!!!! :smart I'm talking pulling a trailer day in and day out....here and there.......up that mountain/hill and down the other side. Get those EGT's hot enough, for long enough to burn that carbon (if any) off the injector tips!!! And for those who insist on using PS, MMO, and any of the other so called "diesel additives", to "CLEAN OUT" the fuel system.......Can any of you tell me why the fuel system needs to be cleaned out???? Isn't that what your FUEL FILTERS are for????? :smart Some of the logic you all seem to spew just leaves me shaking my head. :?: Some of you truly don't know how these engines work IMHO!!! If you're on the fence; listen and read what Mopar1973Man has been telling you all now for over a year now. Do you truly believe that he'd start a website "DEDICATED" to the benefits of using 2 stroke oil as a diesel additive for almost 0 dollars if he wasn't sure it'd benefit you all???? He's not a "corporate" guy just looking at $$ signs either. Just a regular DUDE like most of you all and me trying to make a living!! If I've offended anyone reading this, I DON'T CARE!!! I'm not a PC dude, and I think this country would be a whole lot better off if everyone else wasn't so PC either!!! Sorry for the rant!!!! :smart B) MikeyB.......Welcome aboard, I've always valued your inputs on the "other" forum!!! :thumbsup

I dropped the amount of 2 stroke I used to 1/2oz/1gal when I found out that a station I fill at is selling diesel that is anywhere from 5-11% bio depending on availability and price. I'm still getting good mileage too. When I fill at other stations (non bio), I put in the usual 1oz/1gal ratio. If you're getting B-20, you don't need 2 stroke at all for lubricity. I have no idea what B20+1qt of 2 stroke oil will do for you mileage and power. Let us know!! :thumbsup

Don't know what the propane systems cost, but if you can get propane for $1.50/gal, I'd say it'd be worth it. You've got a lot of plumbing to do though. I use propane for my portable forge and I travel with 2 40# tanks in my work trailer. That's about 20 gallons of propane if they are full. I wouldn't worry about the tanks, they're built well. Propane is costing me $3.00/gal in my parts, so it woouldn't be a good choice for me.