dorkweed

Yes.

50,000+ miles on the SpynTechs now. Not one problem. Gonna pull them apart this summer and repack the bearings etc.

They probably pass enough gas to qualify as cattle.

It's because it's a "RELIGION" to them.

I've seen big loaded up horse trailers push the tires off the rims of SRW trucks in tight maneuvers!!

Is that in reference to my above post???

A couple more for you's guys!!! Don't be drinking any liquids whilst watching!!!

Hey hex0rz....................have them send you 2 replacement pumps so you don't get stranded along the road!!!!

GDP no longer sells/puts together these LP kits. Due to the company that makes the Walbro pump wanting Richard to purchase something like 5000 pumps before they'd give him a price break.

Watch the video........... http://www.poopourri.com

You could buy a Walbro pump for not much more than the Carter Black and have it last darn near forever!!!! Richard at GDP would still be selling his Walbro LP systems if the company that makes the Walbro didn't insist that he buy like 5000 at a time for the volume price discount.

Like Mike, I've never had a gelling issue with my truck. In temps as low as -18*F and not getting above 0*F for days straight. My only additive has been 2 stroke oil in the cold months. I also believe that a lift pump that will put out some pressure helps keep fuel flowing. Keep your VP44 and CP3 safe with a quality regulator and and make sure you get a pretty good supply and return flow/volume from whatever pump you use.

Road crown in combination to what was typed above.

Had my GDP Walbro set up about as long!!

Can't help but think of, "the definition of insanity" here.

Here..................

Have you tried it since you've done all your "mods"?...................... and especially since you've had to essentially "re-build" your Cummins??!!! Just asking.................not arguing!!

diesel4life; I'm gonna throw this at you here for you to ponder.....................I know folks personally that use their 2 stroke snowmobiles in temperatures down to -50*F. That's actual air temperature. I've run my 50HP Evinrude outboard that's on my boat down the river in temps as low as -10*F. In case you don't know, most all modern snowmobiles and outboards are "oil injected" 2 strokes. No mixing of oil and gas in these. That oil had better stay flowing when it's that cold, or there's major problems. Diesel fuel is "oil".................as is 2 stroke. Plus 2 stroke is made/designed/formulated to burn, and burn cleanly. In order to flow at those really cold temps, the 2 stroke has to have some "anti-gel" properties to it. I'm not saying it's being sold or marketed as anti-gel; because it's not, it just has to have those properties to be used at those extremely cold temps. Mikes research years ago showed that most all 2 stroke oils have a lower "pour point" than does straight diesel fuel. Don't recall if it was winterized diesel or not. By my way of thinking, by mixing 2 stroke oil and diesel together at the low ratios/concentrations that we do, it has to improve the "pour point" of the diesel somewhat. The stories and reports we read here about fuel gelling; I'd be willing to bet that more often not, it's water in the fuel that's freezing and not the fuel itself gelling. I've no way of proving that, but that's my gut feeling. I live in northern Illinois........about as far North in Illinois without being in Wisconsin......................There's a lot of guys here that live in areas of the USA and in Canada that are much further North than I am that've never put a dedicated "anti-gel" product into their diesel in the Winter. In addition to that; I'd be willing to bet that the vast majority of folks that drive diesel vehicles don't put an anti-gel product in the fuel they get......................And you don't hear of mass stories of fuel gelling around the country. Someone above mentioned "Gummed up from 2 stroke" above..........................In a properly running 2 stroke engine, the 2 stroke oil is not causing the gummed up. It's from the engine not being properly tuned and/or the gasoline in it that's evaporated and gummed the fuel lines and the carburetor up IMHO. I don't remember if it was Mike or someone else here.......................but they mixed diesel and 2 stroke and let it set to see if it would separate.................it didn't. Like I said above, 2 stroke is made to burn, and the ratios we are running it at is way less than what most folks use in their 2 stoke power equipment and toys. I run 1/2oz. per 1 gallon of diesel............that works out to about a 256:1 ratio in my truck. Mike and the VP crowd often run double what I do, or about 128:1. Still pretty thin when compared to 40:1 used in most 2 stroke engines.

So am I!!

I've got blue 300*F (I think) hydraulic hose on my MotorGuard TP bypass. Don't have a clue as to where you can get it though.

This must've been creeping up on me for a time, because my truck is much quieter at idle now. Never knew I was hearing it before.

No bloody knuckles either!! Amazing how close the "clearance" is between the fan blades and the fan clutch wiring......................less than the thickness of my forefinger on the bottom and the front!!!!

OK guys and gals.....................here's a few pix of the first real snow we've gotten here this year. Probably got 18-20" at my place; although it's kinda hard to tell because of how hard the wind was blowing. The one picture is taken out my living room window after I got home Sunday afternoon.

Changed out the fan clutch today. Only took about 1.5 hours in my unheated garage...........it's just 20*F here today. Tried to do it yesterday; without the proper tools, from a way I read about on one of other sites archives. Twas a PITA, so I went to NAPA and bought the fan clutch tool kit for $60.00. Money well spent IMHO!!! Probably went so quick today because I knew what I had to take "off" the truck to get this thing out by taking it apart yesterday and putting it back together so I could go buy the tools!! My fan clutch was actually pretty easy to break loose................hardest part is maneuvering the "pulley holding tool" into position and have it stay there while you try to maneuver the 36mm fan wrench with the 1/2" ratchet attached onto the fan clutch nut. As I said prior, my broke loose rather easily.....................read of stories on other sites where guys had to use hammers to break them loose. Hardest part for me in this regard was kneeling on the front bumper while doing this!!!! It was definitely the bearing right behind the nut on the fan clutch itself that was bad/going out. Anyone remember the roller skates you used to clamp onto your shoes..................the ones with the steel wheels??????? That's what the nut sounds like on the old unit when I turn the thing...................like roller skating down the sidewalk. Install was pretty straight forward...................just a reversal of what I did prior. Here's how I got this thing out of there. 1. Drain out about 1 gallon of coolant from the radiator. 2. Remove the air filter box while radiator drains. 3. Remove upper radiator hose from radiator and bend out of the way. Mine stayed out of the way hooked behind the dipstick. 4. Remove the 2 upper fan shroud nuts. 5. Remove the 2 brackets the upper fan shroud nuts attach to. 6. Remove the 2 lower fan shroud nuts. 7. Remove the bolt holding the fan clutch wiring plug bracket. 8. Unplug the fan clutch plug. 9. Break loose the fan clutch from the fan pulley with the PROPER TOOLS!! 10. Spin the fan clutch off while trying to keep the fan clutch wiring from catching on everything as it turns. 11. Once the fan clutch is off the mounting nut, drop it down into the bottom of the fan shroud. 12. Go under truck and maneuver fan clutch and fan shroud off lower fan shroud bolt stubs. Be careful here. 13. Back on top, maneuver both fan clutch and fan shroud together out of engine compartment together. 14. Take fan blade assembly off old fan clutch and install on new fan clutch and reverse the process. I put a tiny bit of anti-seize on the new fan clutch nut prior to install. It said in the manual to bring the engine up to approximately 2000rpm for 2 minutes to make sure the fluid within the fan clutch gets distributed properly. I did that, closed the hood, and SHAZAM..................no more noise!!!!!! Drove 10 miles to let the engine temperature come up, and all seems well!!! Any questions, just ask.

Any tips for this would be greatly appreciated John!!