mehbohdi

hope it was gold plated...

K.I.S.S.I started to get the infamous loc unloc syndrome, read a bunch of stuff, watched some u tube, checked alternator for A/C noise (less than .01), looked at batteries (looked OK), didn't go away for about a week. Finally I removed each battery cable one at a time cleaned reinstalled, cleaned all the grounds i could reach in engine compartment. Been a week, haven't had a problem since. Just proved to me that connections can look perfect and still not be. Never thought that a electrical system could be so sensitive to a grounding. Just had to fix what I had, didn't need to add anything.Thank you all for your contributions to this thread, especially Mike Nelson aka Mopar1973Man:burnout2:

What he said, You probably don't need injectors, they just need to be cleaned. Just my 2cents

My steering box started to leak at output shaft, so I decided to step up to Borgeson box and steering shaft, when I removed old box discovered cracked frame around bolt holes. Ground all down welded and fish plated, better than new, now. IMO if you plan to run oversized tires, it would be good insurance to install steering brace. I'm sure that is why my frame was cracked, to much added weight and friction. I'm sure if one was to use stock set up all would be good. BTW the Borgeson steering box does make a world of difference in driveability (you loose 3/4's of turn lock to lock). That's all folks...

Just got rid of Nitto Terra Grapplers (285/75 R16). I did not have any complaints about ride or handling, but I only got 26,000 miles out of them (down to wear bars), they wore evenly and I rotate ever 5000 miles, just didn't last. Just put on Goodyear DuraTrac's (285/70 R17). Will see how these last, had them installed Saturday. Upsized to 17's, cause I'm thinking of bigger front brake kit. These trucks are heavy....

change wheels

I am on my 2nd Timbo Apps first one lasted 2 years and it got a bad spot in it potentioameter. On the scan tool App (GO Point) I have the on my Iphone the Throttle position input was really erractic (work fine on other vehicles and new Apps). And the other option to my dead pedal was narrowed down to VP or Apps. Bought Apps 1st (it's cheaper). Been a month or two and have not had a incident. I will assume that I fixed it. I do know Murphy is alive and well, so that is all I'm going to say.

If you didn't take the pitman arm off don't take it off to adjust. Loosening up 2 bolts on sleeve closest to pitman arm, get a pair of channel locks or pipe wrench and turn sleeve till steering wheel is in center, tighten up and drive, repeat if necessary. As said earlier it will be easier if the steering wheel is not locked. You could also adjust toe in with a tape measure 1/8-1/4 inch of toe in will get you to alignment shop. Good luck

I might have to entertain that idea, on the next trip. I do find I get best mpg at 1900-2000 rpm. It's worth a try if I can take it. My father used to tell me he could get 20 mpg out of this thing, haven't seen it yet, but he was older and mature...

This is great info, thanks Mike. But I have a problem with all those other cars just passing me all the time when the speed limit is 75mph, I just can't take it (lol). I'm coming thru again next month I'm going to try to stay around 70 -75 mph, I know I can get 17-18 mpg. Sometimes I wish I had 3.55 gears. The cost of gears buys a lot of fuel. Then I'd have to buy smaller tires, then I think it would look funny. Not doing it. Thanks again.

I have a XZT+, and heard they were going away on CF, and somebody on that forum found almost all of the downloadable fuel maps and put them up on a site for free. I have most of them now. I'm just going to keep the Quad till it doesn't work. Then I'll get something else. I'm happy with the XZT+, only has 3 position toggle not much to wrong.

The shop I used to work at, we used a UltraSonic Cleaner (Just like the ones you can use for jewerly or guns), 99% of the time everything came off good as new, and we always pop tested afterwards. You can change pop off just tighten them differently or mixing up bodies. I have a pop tester but it's for older stuff won't go over 3000 psi.

I'd try bleeding it again and check all your fittings. Murphy's alive and well. Good luck

I had system flushed when I got it from my Father, but I don't think it ever had been replaced when he owned it. I will keep it in mind next time i flush it. I searched threads about thermostats and I do think the Dodge hi-flow thermostat controls temp better, but it's not worth the extra $. A Standard 195 F seems to work just fine, temp swings a little more than B-4, can live with. Thought about drilling a couple of 1/8 inch holes in rim of thermostat, just don't know if its worth it or if it will make a difference (used to do it to drag car to keep temp even).

I had same problem yr ago, Had a loose injector line, just loose enough to let it bleed down and start hard, but not run rough. Gauge is a must, agree with Mike. Good luck

I intentionally avoided driving thru CA this trip. Trip was actually shorter going East and down thru OR, ID, NV. and better sights. Wouldn't want to get caught with a 13 rd. mag. in CA. They might think......I would have contacted Mike if I needed help, seen as it is his stomping grounds.

I was coming back from AZ last week, up 93 to Twin Falls coming up grade engine started getting colder going up hill which is opposite of what normally happens. When I got back down on flats temp dropped down to 150. It was 19 degrees outside but that has never happened. Not wanting to stop, I continued on, blocked off radiator all the way and kept temp at 160-170 all the way home. Next day removed thermostat housing. To this? Went and bought new one at parts store. This is a first for me, never seen cracked broken thermostat. All is well now, lucky for me it stuck open. Could have been much worse, I might have got stuck in Idaho.

You do not need to have a aftermarket box to put in RV275's and you will notice the difference. I would do Cold air intake and exhaust B-4 tuner, you will get the most benefit from tuner. Stock boost more or less 20 psi, so you might have a leak or a weak waste gate. Rule of thumb 10 hp = 1 PSI of boost. I wouldn't push to much over 35 psi with stock head bolts. Just my 2cents.

What he said!

Not as pretty as it was when I did it, but functional

I'll put up pic's Monday, just got back and its dark and scary outside....

Replumbed mine just like MoparMan's but in nice shiny copper with a piece of 5/8 heater hose dropping down to bottom of frame rail. Just used what I had lying around. Which is a lot of sh#% I mean stuff....

That's just to simple.

I'm only trying to get 30lbs. of boost. I figure I'm only around 300HP, so I really don't need much above 30lbs. The J-hook thingy isn't worth the steel it's made from, but it was pricey... Converting to a HX with a boost elbow is probably a better way to go. Just wasn't sure it was a direct replacement, I thought the head pipe was different HY vs. HX. Thanks for input

I was thinking of tying waste gate shut with a turnbuckle, I have the spring thingy but over time the boost is dropping off from 28 down to 24 now. There is no more adjustment in hook w/spring. What U think? Thanks