dieseldon

Thanks, I may try that, the funny thing is les Schwab was trying to tell me I needed more negative toe! Just simply would not listen, I showed them the spec's, zero toe, more caster!

I'm confused, they? An adjustable ball joint? Haven't had a chance to adjust cam bolts yet, will update.. It's been about two and a half months, technically only guaranteed for thirty days, my hunch is they didn't check anything as far as look for worn parts the first time, this time they didn't say my ball joints were worn out, just suggested adjustable uppers for big $$ and weren't sure it would help. They were willing to readjust to the other spec's but another $90 and assured me it would do no good. That's why I left frustrated, they basically said, well tuff luck, can I help the next customer?

Thanks for the info, yeah they don't look like they have been touched recently. Might play around with later. I'd show were mine are sitting but pic's won't upload! FYI, here is my printout

Thanks Hagar, I might experiment with those. I just wish I knew which one turns which way to compensate for a left pull? Your picture is showing right inside can bolt turning counter clockwise, not sure if you're just pointing out the bolts and general position or? Don't know why I can't load a picture today? My driver's side, outer looking right behind wheel, marker line is at 12 o-clock, passenger side is about between ten and eleven.

Thanks Dieselfutue, do you have any specific directions/link to the "tape measure one" ? Do you use the Thuren specs? Obviously you shoot for zero toe but he calls for a lot of caster too? I went back to les Schwab today, (different location ) at least he took it for a test drive and confirmed it drove wonkey. Besides the wander it pulls to the left. He put it up on the rack and said everything seemed good with alignment and parts wise. He wasn't convinced the Thuren specs would do me any good and suggested $200 plus labor offset upper ball joints? I wasn't thrilled about that prospect then he was suddenly convinced something was wrong with my tires, even though I just put on my winter studs (the prior owner gave me) and was doing same as before. I just ended up taking home frustrated, I switched front ones to see if it pulled opposite, nope! In that Thuren article he say's you can adjust cross caster to correct a pull to one side, I'm assuming you adjust those cam bolts on lower control arm? Anyone know which one and what direction if it pulls left? Thanks!

Moparman, I'd love to try a second gen that's as "good as gold" I can't help wondering if you've been driving one for so long you don't know the difference between that and a good driving truck, lol! I've been driving chevy/gm trucks since '80s up till my 08 that I sold to buy this 01 cummins, if I had the resources I'd put this cummins engine in any year gm I'd ever owned, the independent ft. suspension is light years ahead of these things IMO. But honestly I haven't driven many seconds gens to compare, pretty much mine and my son's '99 and mine is way better than his! And mine's more comparable to a tractor than any gm I've had, but I'm still holding out hope!

Thanks for the input, mine is 4x4, if you read the article we're talking about solid axles, he says 0.08 total toe is too much. I had les Schwab do mine awhile ago after putting in the 08+ tie rod setup and some other stuff, set to factory specs, hate it, they said they would set it to the Thuren spec's, but he'd never heard of it before, said my tires would wear out faster, (contrary to the article) and for another $90. Hence the reason I'm looking for others experience and possibly another shop. I asked them to look over all the ft.end parts to make sure everything was good, but I don't think they ever did, could have stuck ball joints for all I know? Visually they looked fine but I never really tested to see if they were good and slippery, I guess there's a way to check but I need to follow up with that. I might have to try to find someone youtube videos to see if I can do this myself? Then I can adjust as needed for whatever feels good to me, and actually check ball joints and? Supposedly one of the easiest front ends to align?? Not sure if you need fancy equipment or just a tape measure? Thanks again!

https://www.thurenfabrication.com/tech/alignment-and-handling.html Alignment according to thuren. I'm willing to hear anyone elses ideas also. Thanks.

I have a question for anyone that might come across this that has the T -stearing linkage/tie rods on their truck. Any experience with the "Thuren alignment specs" ? Very specific that you have t-style linkage or disregard spec's, 0.0 - 0.05 toe and 3.8 - 4.2 caster, I believe the emphasis is on the 0.0 toe? Just had it aligned and NOT happy with factory spec's, always holding the steering wheel to one side or the other, back and forth, back and forth... Anyone know a good alignment shop in Boise/treasure valley area? Thanks!

Thanks for taking the time to clarify some things! However as usual more questions come up, maybe time to wrap up this thread. ? I was asked earlier if my ECM (factory warm up mode) was turned on, if so I've got problems because they don't play well with each other, however obviously you can have both, BUT you need that switch, and when it gets cold turn off high idle settings on quad, got it, correct me if I'm wrong. Now, shouldn't I be able to use quad high idle as long as it's not cold, wether or not the ECM is enabled, and I'm assuming it's not, and wether or not I have the switch? And shouldn't I be able to use quad high idle when cold without the switch IF the factory ECM hasn't been enabled? I do want one of those switches, looks pretty slick but my war chest is depleted from just trying to keep this thing running since I bought it and purchase of quad ?. Like I said, currently it seems I don't have factory mode, and quad seems to have issues. MAYBE it's just pure coincidence that truck was running weird and check engine light coming on with the quad high idle turned on? I'm kind of nervous to turn it back on. Either way I'm learning a lot about truck and quad, so that's a bonus! But also I need to know if quad has a glitch and needs attention while under warranty . How hard is it for someone with smarty to turn on ECM idle mode ? Trying to stay away from stealership! One more question, when you say you "disable quad" when it gets cold I'm assuming you mean just disable the quad idle settings and not the entire quad? Thanks for the help and patience for a new cummins owner! Don

Thanks for the help, so how do I use (turn on) the factory warm-up?? It has to be activated at dealership, a smarty or it's a kit?? It sounds like you turn yours on and off at will, (@factory ECM) how does one do that? It seems you have both, quad and factory with no issues, just lucky or is that the"kit" you're talking about? What am I missing here? You can use one or the other. It seems I can't use either for whatever reason short of deactivating ECM and it sounds like that's the one to use during winter. I'm pretty sure it was cold enough this morning to meet parameters. You can use either, I can use neither. Sorry, still confused. Thanks again!

Well, I finally think I got my slow starting sorted out, new batteries, (which really didn't help, but were marginal anyhow) turned out to be the starter, which I found out prior owner put in POS aftermarket ?! Anyhow, don't have money for batteries plus new starter so decided to disassemble this one and clean up and lube for the fun of it, was definitely worth doing, turns the engine 2-3 times faster now and fire's right up now even when warm! Almost afraid to bring up again, but still wondering why using i-quad's fast idle (warm-up mode) sets off check engine light and other issues I described at beginning of post?? So apparently all our trucks have high idle mode software built-in, Question: was mine ever activated by prior owner? If yes I've got problems if I want to use i-quad's? If I had to guess, no I don't think so, it was bone stock from the guy I bought it from, (original owner) Again, never had it come on since I've owned. Does anyone know in laymen's terms if I can figure this out and actually use i-quad's warm-up mode without expensive diagnostic equipment or going to dealership or ??? Or just don't use?? Bummer! Thanks!

New return valve didn't seem to change anything,. However I now have new concerns after apparently losing prime it was next to impossible to restart, I cracked fuel lines and what not but my batteries and starter took a beating, cranked for approx 5sec, and cranking almost comes to stop and starter smoking! Let set 5-10 no charger and try again, took about 6-7 attempts. Batteries were fully charged, load test passed, although barely, I think looking back at those hard starts maybe wasn't cranking as fast as it should? Time to investigate condition of starter? Maybe just get new batteries to start with since I have that extra $300 laying around collecting dust, then rebuild/replace starter, then on to the next problem. ? Decisions.....!

LorenS, thanks for the input! I just installed Airdogs relatively newer frame mounted 4g raptor 150 that doesn't come with the fancy, (and expensive) filter & air separator,(uses stock filter, anywho, that frame mounted filter you're talking about sounds interesting, is it cleanable, how often? got a name/link? Thanks!

I'm idleing around 16-18 psi, I thought it has been established to have it cranked up, assuming you/we have after market lift pumps, airdog, fass, etc. Then fuel is being returned constantly? Hence do I need bleed hole? C'mon fuel gurus, chime in please! Thanks!

Thanks for the replys, no one's ever used one of those aftermarket valves? Or drilled the weep hole? Don't think it would be too difficult, but I don't want to ruin and then un- returnable. Wil440, $10 bucks, must be nice! So strange, Price's on web anywhere from $12 to $100 and most don't show a weep hole. Might search around tomorrow, I don't want to wait a week and don't want to pay $10-$20 shipping! Thanks again!

So, I got my new "Wang Chung" valve today, I noticed it doesn't have a weep hole, can anyone tell me if I should be concerned? Evidently people are using them, at least according to Amazon. Thanks!

So... Finally got around to fiddling with truck again, couldn't find any leaks while pressuring tank, tested overflow valve and couldn't get it to open till reaching 40 psi. Then it seemed to operate normally, stuck?? Just ordered one from Amazon, now just hoping there's not much difference between the $19 one I ordered and the $50 - $100 ones I saw online! I guess I'll find out in a day or two if that helps? Thanks again for the help! Correction, now seems to be stuck open.

Don't have a mechanical gauge. What's PSG? How would one go about checking lines sucking air if no visible leak? I've read a little bit about too much fuel pressure while cranking? Pull lift pump fuse and see if starts, if it does, then install a relay switch. I've seen your schematic moparman, but I'm no electrician and may need step by step pictures with crayons, lol. And maybe something about the fuel return valve? I did notice the LP running longer than normal with ignition on a couple times. Again, all this is just strange coincidences immediately after installing iquad? ? Guess I'm having a hard time grasping that. Quickly running out of patience and money with this truck. Thanks again!

Hi all, just an update after three days of mountain drive and towing approx. 9k. Lab's (My first real test with new Iquad) First off, tow tune was AMAZING! That's the way dodge should have sold them new!, or at least offered a power option ? Now, back to the issues at hand. I had no random surging, no check engine lights, and no high idle, as long as I check off option on quad, so.. I can't use that feature?? Coolant and IAT temps were within a degree of each other at first startup, however coolant gauge was being a little glitchy at times, might just replace that sensor and see if it helps. The other issue, and haven't heard if anyone else has or has ever had hard starting when engine is warm? I stopped to empty my trailer on the way home tonight and literally didn't think it was going to start back up, don't think my batteries or starter is going to last much longer at this rate. Truck has ALWAYS fired up with just a bump of the key. Acts like air in line? Am I supposed to return to stock everytime I start? Not liking this one. (Haven't tried that yet, but might tell me something?) Thanks for any ideas/help!

Thanks, makes sense. I'm getting ready to go to cascade for a couple of days tomorrow, not sure if I'm going to have time to fiddle with? I'm guessing it's not going to hurt anything to drive as is?

Mopa1973man, it shouldn't and yet that seems to be exactly what happened this morning, wasn't that cold either, 45* maybe? I wouldn't dare try to re flash under warranty. Like I said, I'll keep an eye on it, play with some different settings and try to find out what's tripping it. Me and Murphy are old buddies... but why?!!

Thanks for the info! I didn't realize second gen had a 3cyl.mode But I can't help thinking even though I have the high idle in quad settings off at the moment, somehow it's still messing with it? (This morning) until I turned it off and re-loaded it. The only way to make dang sure there's no software incompatibility is a trip to the dealership? Nooooo! I'll just have to see how it goes the next day or so?

Do I need to actually know for sure if it ever had it OEM? By VIN? Does it even matter since it's obviously not activating on its own? And P.O. disabled it for some reason? Can't imagine why he would do that. Sure seems as if quad is messing with ECM/ idle somehow?

Thanks, I can tell you that I've started it plenty of times in the cold ( purchased last Feb.) and never had a high idle kick in, so probably safe to say it doesn't.