dieseldon

Wondering if anyone has gone through this issue before or any suspension gurus out there? I've been in the process of getting this front end tightened up and pretty much have it were I want, now without all the wandering and whatnot I'm noticing out on the highway while under throttle it's pulling to the left. Pretty much new front end other than control arm bushings & ball joints which have no apparent need for replacement, although they could be original as far as I know. I've replaced rear spring shackle bushings awhile back because of a uneasy fishtail feeling I got last summer while towing and noticed they were pretty worn/cracked. I'm still not completely convinced something else isn't screwy back there but can't find anything that sticks out, those bushings helped a little but just doesn't feel as stable as I'd like, not like my old 02 chevy 3/4, and really not as good as my last 08 1/2 ton! Anyhow maybe related?, the lt. pull under accell., And the fishtailing?? Like something in the rear end loose, but don't see anything obvious. Anyone ever gone through anything similar? Thanks!

Not offering any help, but curious, are we not supposed to have battery charger on with quad? I've been using mine for maintenance since I don't drive it much. Also, why wouldn't you have warm up mode on, just to eliminate that variable?

LorenS, thanks for taking time to clarify! Glad to hear it wasn't just me 😂 So, do you just leave it at 40% now for all driving conditions or do you or should one change it if you're going to be changing from 70 to 80 for a while , or you're going to be driving slow city stop and go for a few days? That's how it is here where I live. Have one tune for cruising 70, one for 80, city, etc ?? I think it's hard to understand how compeatly confusing this stuff is for someone that's new to the diesel world, (myself) hence why I joined the forum. Even in the "gas world" I know my way around most aspects of a vehicle but I am no gear head/engine mechanic or tuner, were one plays with and really understands timing, and how it affects mileage/power. My specialty is auto body/ collision repair. Still need to get out and do this, like I said not my daily driver, (partially because of mediocre mileage) but should have enough info now to get this done! Thanks again to all for help and patience!

Moparman, just to be 100% clear, when you say cruise limit does that mean light throttle limit? I'm starting to think the timing parameters terminology has changed over the yrs?? Kinda confusing when you're talking about cruise timing and cruise psi, etc. Not exactly sure on max load timing either or low psi timing reduct? Here is my timing parameters, please let me know if you see anything off or strange, tthanks ! P. S. Happy new year!!

Thanks again for the help! I didn't even realize you changed timing during winter. It's too bad quadzilla doesn't explain their product a little better with youtube videos, more in-depth instructions or?? , just generic bare minimum, leaving people like me scratching their heads not knowing up from down. I really gotta wonder if they even understand it as well as you? Strange how quadzilla doesn't talk on forums anymore, at least since 2017 from what I can tell? Or maybe just on newer model forums? I really haven't looked that close. I hope people keep buying their stuff and they're around for support for a good long time.

Thanks moparman! I'll try to dial that in. I was just trying to figure out how flying j thinks their fuel is worth 40 cents more per gallon? Maybe if they were a mile apart, but they're right next to each other, flying j has a neon sign advertising #2 diesel, fred meyers told me they don't know what's in theirs! No biggie, just one of those head scratchers 🤔 they both have a lot of traffic, flying j has big rig pumps. (Federal way, right off I 84)

I'm still a little confused about #1 and #2 diesel, I understand in a nutshell they're different cetane but how about efficiency? Is #2 worth the extra forty cents per gallon, the difference between flying j (40 cents more) and Fred Meyer is approx one block apart. What say you? I don't plan on giving my truck up either, but when I have a nice cushy park avenue that I can operate for half the cost and no wear and tear on the truck that'll be my daily driver, fortunately don't need a truck for work, etc. Moparman, when you say "close timing" what kinda numbers are you talking about? @45, @55, 65, 75, 80? With or without head studs make any difference? Thanks!

I guess it's just a good thing I decided to use the dodge mainly for towing, the dodge vs my gmc would've made zero sense economically as a daily driver even if it were only the cost difference in fuel. Although it does help boost testosterone levels, LOL! I'm assumeing those low summer prices were too good to last? Too bad there's that whole scam deal nonsense going on with diesel fuel prices! 🤬 I am old enough to remember when diesel was way cheaper than gas, but then there was really no diesel pick-ups on the road either. 🤔.... SCAM! Can't wait till - you know who- starts implementing the "green new deal".... NOT! I better stop before I get into trouble.

Not to shabby LorinS ! But then again I was getting that ( 17-18 ) in my prior GMC gasser cruising 75-80 mph, ( 08 4x4. 1500 ) but put my camper behind it and was lucky to get 7 - 8, forget about the hills here in Idaho !! I'm curious what level gets the best milage regardless of tune, and then of coarse getting/making a good mpg tune ! I'm not really complaining about milage in the dodge, (or am I? LOL!) I think it comes close to my gasser cruising empty, ( although hoping for better ) and way better when towing, it's just that fuel and maintenance is way more and I really had in my head that the quad was going to give some better mpgs, back when I was trying to decide between quad and comp box our local performance guy assured me that with the comp I would instantly gain at least a few mpgs, and he said he had sold and installed lots of them. I'm wondering if a comp box clone tune (Is that possible?) Would accomplish the better mpgs ?? Or is that just a myth ? Guess I'm just a little frustrated/confused that I haven't gained any milage with quad that I can tell. It is awesome for towing tho !

Thanks for the quick response Mr. Moparman!

Well apparently it matters!! Just checked load after warmed up and it's between 8 - 10 idleing in park, 28 - 30 in gear idleing. Do these numbers mean anything different to anyone regarding injectors?? Thanks!

Thanks for posting, ok now I get it, problem is I don't have the overhead unit 😭 Did you gain any mpg's with quad? Thanks! Thanks dieselfuture, did your mpg's change with the quad? Thanks! Maybe my low mpg's are due to truck only having 220,000 mi, everything is still too tight and not broken in yet! 😉 Seriously, I think/hope I just need to do some tweaking with timing and such as moparman mentioned.

I would be happy to get 14 around town, but sadly the 11.5 - 12 is empty, light foot for most part, ( other than when that annoying powerstroke pulled beside me!) haven't towed anything since Sept. Maybe the auto trans makes the difference?

In fairness most driving was either towing or city. I really need to go on a proper trip some day, LOL! Just checked load number, 18 -21 ,(cold) not sure if it matters if it's warmed up? Timing was a tad over 20. Between my age now and the meds I take for pain I forget way more than I can take in with this thing, but I just remembered this: I read somewhere here that the quad is also supposed to compensate for worn injectors with a proper tune? I'll try my other tune and see if it helps, and try to avoid city driving. On a side note, what is the mpg offset for, supposed to do? I know quadzilla and y'all have gone into great detail about how to operate this thing but personally myself who doesn't know jack about diesel's to begin with a lot of the instructions might as well be written in Arabic, but every now and then something sticks! Thanks again! Edit, too bad quad couldn't come up with a instant mpg or driving coach like most other tuner's out there. I guess you could use the ECO or GALLON TRIP?

Thanks for responding Driply, No I don't have big tires, or 4.10 gears, or lifted, etc. The only real unknown are my injectors I guess? The only way to know for sure is get tested?? And like I said, by the time you do that might as well get new ones. $700 - $800 plus ! It's hard for me to justify on a hunch. Not to mention the wife!! 👹💥⚡🔥! Does someone know anything about that load test for injectors? Here's some old posts from moparman and his milage without comp box, 12 - 13. With box he was getting 20+. Maybe I'm missing something else that was going on? Obviously he's changed his thinking on comp box, but was that an anomaly? Back to my original question, are we supposed to be picking up mpg's with the quad or??

Thanks for the help/info moparman! I really have no idea how old or miles are on my injectors, was just told by previous owner they were swapped out awhile ago?? I remember right before I purchased quad I was wondering about replacing, testing. I decided the cost of testing I may as well replace them, or get the quad, (didn't have fund's for both) which I wanted anyhow and then I would have a way to test load at idle, etc. can't even remember now but there was a number that ment the injectors were pretty much toast? And mine "passed" not sure how reliable that was? Anyhow, I guess that daily driver with meat tune hasn't been helping my mpg's ? I might go out and fiddle with testing, monitoring, adjusting later, just don't feel like wasting a bunch of fuel right now for testing purposes only. I'm going to try these settings for now, please let me know if you see any red flags or any suggestions, maybe lower rpm timing max? thanks!

Happy holidays to all !! Here's hoping '21 will be better ! Sorry for another mpg question and I'm sure this has probably been discussed to death somewhere?? So I've owned my truck for almost a year now, I don't drive it much, mainly bought it for hauling camper, dirt bike and such, I don't think I've put more than 6 - 7 tanks of fuel thru it, maybe 3 since I got quadzilla. Was I mistaken thinking I was going to get better milage with the quad? I love the way it runs, and I drive pretty conservitaly most the time and I have yet to get over 12 mpg ! That was before and after quad, no difference other than power, which is nice but?? Now I'm still extremely new to the diesel world and all these charts and graphs of timing, fuel curves, volumetric tables, etc.. just seem to make me more confused 🤔😵 I'm really wondering if I should have just got the edge comp and been done? I was reading somewhere moparman was getting an additional 7 - 8 more mpgs with just the comp box. Oh well, too late now. When I'm not towing I'm usually driving mostly city and running the"daily driver with meat" level 3, I really like the tune, but does anyone have a good economy tune/tunes like one for city, low speed driving, and one for hwy with stock to 75 hp injectors? Time to save for bigger ones? Should I be driving with a higher or lower level? I kinda remember doing a idleing load test right after I got the quad to test injectors and everything was fine, assuming that test actually works? Or just maybe some advice/opinions on what's happening here? Or some easy to understand settings with small words in bold type, LOL! Thanks!

That looks pretty dang good! Here's a tip for getting professional paint results on the cheap, take something like your gas cap to a body and paint supply store and ask them to match it, then have them put in an aerosol spray can, (base coat) then finish off with spraymax 2k clear, also spray cans. Maybe lightly wet sand with 1500 grit and polish. I've done a few that way and got excellent results. Here's a few pics of daughter in laws I did in driveway last summer.

Just think about how much money you're saving plus experience and satisfaction of fixing your own truck! Estimate of shop: @$75hr. Replace cab corner, 8hrs x 2 $1200 Paint 6hrs x 2 $900 Materials $125 ? Set bed back for paint, 2 hrs, $150 Parts markup ?? EPA fees ? Tax, misc.?? Probably a $2500 plus job! Now you can take that$2500 and go to the dentist and get a cavity filled, I think that takes about an hour to hour and a half?

Looking good !

I hear ya, doesn't take long to get in deep!

Yeah I would at least do that, maybe scrape off whatever you can and spray with converter, let it do it's thing then fluid film. Spray the converter on as much as possible. You're right tho, that could have been a lot worse, doesn't look too bad. Remember, if you're going to glue repair panel on you want clean bare metal on both sides, like an inch or two, grind down both surfaces down to a bit of a taper so there's not much of an abrupt edge, this will make feathering with filler go smoother. Or put on entire panel on with no filler?, then disregard tapering. then a thin layer of glue were the bare metal is, clamp and or screw it in place. You got this! Good luck!

I would definitely put some rust converting primer in there. https://www.amazon.com/AGS-Solutions-Preventing-Application-Permanently/dp/B08KJKRXXJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=rust+solutions+spray&qid=1608229617&s=automotive&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRzA0NkRKRkw1NkUzJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTQyNTE2MzFXVVBYTUJEVlFNSSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzA2MTM3MUY2NzFRSDY0TjBYTyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl Something like this Or rust mort I'm just hoping you're not planning on spraying that fluid film in there and think it'll be good to go? That is a corrosion preventer not converter, do the converter first then prevention.

https://www.amazon.com/SEM-71120-Rust-Preventer-Aerosol/dp/B00BI28HCM/ref=mp_s_a_1_19?dchild=1&keywords=anti+corrosion+applicator+wand+kit&qid=1608066444&s=automotive&sr=1-19 Seems kinda spendy. $15 !! I'll bet you could make one out of a of small plastic hose, and drill some tiny holes in it and plug the end. Do you have a local body and paint supply store? Thaa 3m kit comes with three wands but $28 - $38 does seem kinda steep. Reality sets in when the shop isn't paying for it 🤣, I might research one of those brand x on amazon that actually give you a wand with there product?? Or get one just for the wand? Or just make one Lol🤔 At work we had a body shutz gun with a longer hose that you could fish into small passages and reach anywhere.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/collision-repair-us/featured-products/cavity-wax-plus/ Here's my vote for inside rocker panels, etc. Ideally before you can see daylight 😱 You need the spray applicator that sprays it with a long hose 360 degrees, snake it in to those hard to reach places. Underneath I think I'm going to find a rust converting primer and then undercoat. Fluid film might be a great product I just have a slight personal bias I suppose, wouldn't be allowed in the body shop, would be like spraying wd-40 on everything, it would cause a nightmare in the paint shop.