dieseldon

Very odd, I go out and pull ECM fuses to clear lamp, start and warm-up, everything seems good. I toggle to zero and no high idle, no CEL. Now I turn off and on and try again, now idle shoots up on zero but no CEL. Do this several times and like every other time it doesn't go up. At least the annoying light isn't on! Not sure if I should be concerned or just never use zero? I'm assuming it's not normal for idle to go up under any circumstances once engine is warm. Is it just me or does this thing seem glitchy? Thanks again for any ideas.

Thanks for responding, I typically leave mine set to 140* level 2-3 also, the only reason I toggeled to zero is I was going out to see if I could get my cruise timing figured out again for MPG economy tune and just wanted to drive stock to eliminate quad from equation for baseline. So, truck is parked, was warmed up, already went threw warm-up, high mode, (160*?) and was idleing normal, I toggle to zero, my idle shoots up and lamp comes on, toggle back to level 2 and idle goes back down, I go into settings and turn off high idle, toggle back to zero, high idle returns..... strange?? Even if it had nothing to do with idle function, which it seemed to, can't understand why toggling to zero would set off any light? Especially one that would seem to have nothing to do with the quad, but this is beyond any coinsidence. In my mind, probably something stupid on my end because I don't fully understand all this custom tuning - quad in general but how could this not be some kind of quad glitch? Thanks for trying to help!

So I was out fiddling with the quad yesterday and set to level zero, my idle shot up to a little over 1200, basically high idle mode and instantly set off engine light. Truck was already up to temp. I could toggle back and forth and everytime I got to zero idle would shoot up, above zero it would go back down. Code was 0500, 1693 (ABS code?) Something similar happened a few months ago with that code and quad and me78569 promptly jumped in and assured me that was impossible! Well I'm here to tell you it is! I thought it worked itself out with that code awhile back, but here it is again and I'm sure it's iquad related. Even made sure to turn off high idle on quad and idle still jumped up on lvl. zero. I've been using quad warm-up, high idle mode lately without issue. Besides resetting and never using level zero again, any ideas?? Thanks!

I for one certainly understand that statement! I'm new to diesel's, new to tuners, I really appreciate the work people like moparman, me78569 are doing for iquad, but for someone like myself, for the most part I don't understand 75% or more of what their saying, really wish there was a iquad school for dummies LOL! To me it almost seems like when reading the instructions they're talking to professional tuner's? (Moparman, I hope you keep that in mind if you calab with them) my self esteem can only handle so much asking questions and sounding like an idiot. I just got mine a couple months ago and I really do like it, just wish I understood it better. Not many custom tunes for stock to +75 injectors available either.

I am kind of a slow learner, but I'm still having a hard time equating why using the fuel basket makes the fuel overheat?

I could have used this info a few months ago when I was installing my raptor 4g looking for advice, all I heard was pretty much crickets, l MIGHT have installed that way? All I know is that the airdog instructions made no sense and that guy that works for airdog was less than helpful to put it politely! I'll just suck fuel from the stock basket for now I guess. Is there a good reason I'd want to go back and change it??

What is the critical temp to watch out for? And what exactly is the issue? How exactly does a slightly larger drawstraw cool down fuel? I was under the impression that the vp needed good fuel pressure to thrive, (above 5psi) now I need to worry about temperature? I can't help wondering why that mechanic, who works on and installs these systems on a daily basis would have me run it like that?

Don't know if anyone remembers any of my posts from last summer when I was installing my air dog, but instruction sheet and my stock in tank sender/basket didn't make sense to me, I ended up taking it (fuel basket) to a local Cummins sled pulling guru mechanic and he told me , NOT TO USE THEIR DRAW STRAW! Just connect to stock setup, other than top hose connector, he said I was lucky that I hadn't ruined it yet drilling holes, ruining screen and what not, because people were running out of fuel too soon, especially on a hill, sloshing around or?? Well, I took his advice and haven't had any issues, sender, basket, straw, fuel delivery seem to work just fine. Maybe if I decide to exceed 500hp I'll need to re evaluate?

🤔 Has anyone ever actually ever seen That maroon dodge on any public streets, or is it just sitting on jack stands running 'round the clock??

I don't think I've come across that statement in a dodge forum before 😉

So I'm not doubting what you're saying isn't true. I run stock wheels and tires, no lift, everything seems fairly tight now (not much slop) for a second gen dodge?? Aligned to specs , maybe I'm just too picky or I'm used to driving a GM truck that really drives more like a luxury car than a truck? I thought the reason for those brace's was for possible frame flex/twisting? I guess if the bearing fails I might toss it and see if there's a difference? I've been reading article after article about people fighting these junk front ends and really haven't come across any difinitive answers, I've been throwing parts and money at this thing since the day I bought it. (With some improvement) I'm sure I could easily spend another $1k in parts that may or may not help. My son's '99 is in worse shape than mine and he's been kinda doing the same thing. Are you saying a blue top quick ratio steering box might be the answer to my problems? I'm having a hard time equating my current issue of wandering to left under accell to a steering box, although probably would be beneficial overall? I really don't think my box is worn out, son's might be another story? His has a history of puking fluid, undiagnosed issue. Thanks!

Well the only brace I see a lot of people using is that sector shaft brace , correct me if I'm wrong? I already have one, not sure how much it helped? It supposed to help stiffen up the rails. Also have a front receiver hitch, (partially welded on) so I'm about Braced out as far as front end, lol ! Still no entirely convinced that rear end isn't moving, I'm just not seeing? Thanks for the input!

I finally got around to doing the power braking test looking for rear end movement, had none that I could tell. The mystery resumes : {

WOW! I hadn't heard of that one yet , and I used to repair frames (collision repair) on a weekly basis, but I've been out of the trade for about ten years too, and don't really follow the sled pulling gig. My truck is "fairly" rust free but the undercarriage does need some attention from years of road salt damage and such, Idaho now uses it instead of sand 🤬 And it was originally bought and owned for a while near california coast. It certainly doesn't help my old long held preconceived prejudice towards mopars quality ☹️

Thanks, Yeah, I've replaced the spring bushings, they were in pretty bad shape, cracked, hogged out, (is that a word?) I need to investigate those springs, perch's, and pins I think. Thanks again for the ideas!

I wish I had control arms to put bushings in. 🏆😅

Thanks driply, I guess it could've been a sheered spring pack pin? I'll give it a look, hard to get the wife out there to do anything, lol !

Thanks Hagar, yeah I've checked tires, swapped, etc, I don't have rear sway bars, I'll keep looking! Probably need to get that thrust angle checked.

Under acceleration, from light onward. It was wandering to left all the time even after alignment, after I adjusted caster bolts, which alignment shop pretty much refused to do it drives WAY better now, (I have another thread about this and maybe I should have just revised that?) Anyhow, it's been a never ending battle trying to get this thing driving decent since I bought it a year ago. Seeing how this particular issue happens under acceleration I'm wondering if the rear wheels are steering it somehow, especially with the squirrlieness with my camper behind it, What I mean by that is, if I make any sudden steering movements left and right it's sometimes a overly exaggerated fishtail feeling, more so than other trucks I've had. Just don't see anything obvious. Thanks!

Measurement seems to be dead on. Maybe I'm wrong here but seems a little crazy to me you have all that torque, then those big long rearend u-bolts and no traction bars to keep the axle housings from twisting? The accelerating doesn't yank the wheel out of your hands but if you let go while it will drift to the other lane in short order. And no, letting off or braking doesn't straiten out or pull opposite. Any other ideas?? Thanks!

I know a lot of folks with stock or small injectors would love to have that tune!

Wish I had a dollar for every time I was thinking this, lol!

Yes as a matter of fact I did recently get it aligned, but not at a good shop, actually they just ended up pissing me off in the end! The shop I had used for years is no longer in business. After alignment it still drifted left and they couldn't figure out and so I ended up messing around with the caster and over all it drove way better! Anyhow, what you say makes sense, now I can't remember if I did that or not, lol. I just recall measuring off frame. Kept thinking something was moving due to torque. Still dark here, will check later. I also need to research a good shop around here! About all that's left are those f@#$&n chain stores! No lift's here!! Learned that lesson in my younger years 🙄

I was just thinking the same thing, without it turned on, how does it know when to turn off?

Got it, thanks. I had mine turned on to 140, I can hear it idleing in the house and when I hear the idle go down I know it's warmed up and safe to venture out 😉 But also like you said, I assumed it wouldn't allow any cold "hot rodding"