dieseldon

Pull right up to your garage or something, I turned one 90 degrees and made a difference, Watch the beam go up a couple inches on hi. At least mine did.

So unfortunate, take a look on the back side of say mercedes benz, volvo, some other Euro's, caked with waxy corrosion protection. Too bad American companies designed disposability into their products. I still would never own one of those over engineered Euro nightmares tho! 🤑

If dodge had just put proper corrosion protection behind their sheet metal they would probably last a lifetime anyhow, I sure hope that $10-$15 profit helps them sleep at night!

I wouldn't say it's stronger than welding, there's a place for glue and a place for welding, sometimes glue and weld on the same panel like quarter panels. Also works great for repairing plastic bumpers!

There certainly is a way to glue panels on without welding, used to glue entire roof panels on, quarter pnls. rust repair patches, etc. The stuff is called 3m metal bond, there are different brands but I always preferred 3m, no odor, sandable, it's a epoxy tube, and as a matter of fact I have some in my garage right now. You can't even imagine how many use's I can find for the stuff! I can't live without it! You can buy at paint supply store or amazon. We tested in vice to see if you could get it to separate, the metal tore first. You can get it to release with a torch. The glue itself is corrosion protection. For a patch you want to grind down to bare metal around both edges, and opposite mate surface, then cover with the glue, either clamp and wait to set, or if there's no way to clamp drill 1/8 in. holes and screw, after it sets remove screws and fill. The applicator gun is quite expensive, the body/ paint supply store will usually rent you one or you can just push out the bottom with some big sockets and mix with putty knife or? My advice if you want/need some great glue to end all, get some.

Thanks, I'll put that on "the list"

My wipers have been shutting off in weird places since I bought it, top of windshield, halfway down, etc. That's not normal? Lol! Anyhow, should I assume it's that multi switch? (Blinker switch) Those silly Dodge brothers didn't see a need to have a cabin filter !!! Thanks!

Man I feel for you trying to get Chinese parts and pieces to fit! I don't know if you considered, but If I was doing that Job I would at least try to find a good rust free section from a s aalvage yard, we used to do that all the time for customers and insurance co's for collision repairs and save them a ton of money, more work than new parts but hey, we saved those poor ins. Co's money ! Might check car-parts.com if you can't find anything local, if I remember correctly shipping pretty reasonable to local salvage yard, (national parts outfit in U.S.) Definitely want to use the zinc weld-thru primer underneath, don't worry I breathed it for decades! 😥 But don't assume you won't need more corrosion protection, it will burn off underneath what is welded, go to a body and paint supply shop and ask for a good anticorrosion spray they'll know what you need, oily, waxy stuff, can't think of any particular name brands. Take off those plastic caps on back side and spray the crap out of it, no need to keep re-doing, like Mike said keep those drain passages clear!!! That goes for doors, bed panels, wheel openings, etc. FYI, if you do find a good part, just dissect it and use what you need, maybe cut thru front hinge pillar and back to cab corner? I know nasty job, Good luck !

Glad to hear they're better, like I said hi been is not dramatically different, I'll bet if you look closer they do go up a bit, notice how the " hot spot" on the road goes from in front of the truck to down the road further. Was I right that you can light up the road now ?!! See what's in front of you and then some? r

Yep, mine's at 3-9

That should work out for you, let us know what you think. I'm still happy, I just hope they last a good long while.

Clock them at 3 and 9, very important! I think I had to flip one of them so hi and lo jived. I also ended up notching out the original lamp locking ring were that wire comes out, not sure that's nesassary but I didn't like the way you have to bend it at a 90 degree angle and possibly upset the way the bulb sits. Did you take the entire headlight out? I found that to be the way to deal with it, and only takes a few minutes, three bolts each.

That's right, 9007, FYI, I've done collision auto body work for over 30 yrs. (Retired after neck injury) and I've adjusted 1000's of headlights over the yrs. So I've included some pics of properly adjusted lights, my truck is approx 10 ft. from doors, main beam, (hot spots) is approx 39 inches from ground, bottoms of lamps are also 39 inches. Shop's have fancy tools to do this, but I've gotten to know by eye balling after so many years. I can't say if this will work with after market Len's just have to experiment? Should be similar, just don't know if reflectors will project properly? Get in people's eyes? Don't even get me started on after market parts! Not trying to offend anyone but from my perspective they're one of the insurance industries biggest scams! If I was unfortunate enough to have an accident, (not my fault) I would insist on OEM parts, most shops won't tell you anything one way or the other. I've never seen an after market part that was better quality, period! And some are just junk. Fine if you're trying to save yourself money, but not better, also be careful in that many policy's require you to use them, buried in the fine print. If you care you might want to check, or pay the difference for quality parts if it matters to you, then again Dodge isn't exactly known for its quality in the first place 🤣

Here's a few more pics, this street was very dark, there's two pics of me standing in front of truck, the one you can see part of my finger is high beam, not much difference there, but the lo does shine more on ground in front of truck, nothing dramatic. There's a before polishing pic of light

I know what you're saying, I was speaking in jest, I have mine aimed right were my original one's were and after a week of driving I haven't been flashed yet and from what I can tell when I'm behind someone they're not shining in their rearview mirror. On the other hand my son has some brand x bulbs in some clear brand x Len's and is getting flashed, he also happens to be a police officer and is in the process of exploring other options. But to your original point, yes there are some real jackass's out there and I don't want to be one either.

Sycostang67, nothing to worry about! I personally guarantee you're going to love those bulbs so much, and if you don't or they ever fail over the lifespan of your vehicle I'll have amazon double your refund, and a coupon voucher for a free medium soft drink of your choice from McDonald's, just mention diesel Don if they give you any guff! Driply, just a suggestion, don't stare into the light. P.S. it's better to give than receive. 😉😇

Like I said, stock lens's- $39 , lights the road better than anticipated, very pleased that I can actually see in front of me. If money was no object, if I drove for a living, if I needed to see a mile in front of me, I'd probably pursue a different set-up.

Yeah, it's hard to catch the difference, the lo is pretty bright but it goes from hitting the road in front of you to shining up a bit, not dramatic.

I'll have to try to take more pics, like I said I'm having trouble uploading pic's for some reason. Is above 2 mb's too large?? Which accounts for 99% of my pics. If you look closely you can see the blue high beam on dash. Forth pic is high beam, fifth low... I need to stop on a dark road or somewhere and take some obvious hi vs lo.

Here's some pics, I'd share more and close ups of my headlights but I guess I need to figure out this dang phone or this forum or?? I cannot upload pics larger than 2.0 mb's for some reason, irritating as crap! Do I need to figure out how to compress? Thumbnail? Get a older phone, pre android 10? Photo sharing app? Tutorial from grandkids? Only thing that's a little disconcerting are those vertical lines in the peripheral vision, but I really don't notice or bother me. Main thing is I can see the road like never before!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07XL7LLVS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_titlehttps://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07XL7LLVS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_titlehttps://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07XL7LLVS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_titleTap on a clip to paste it in the text b So, I thought I'd pass this along for those of you who haven't invested large quantities of money into your headlights already. Keeping in mind that mine are severly faded stock lens's with stock halogen bulbs, I think we all know how pathetic and dangerous that combo is! I started off with machine polishing with meguires #2 mirror glaze fine cut cleaner, about a 10 min.job, then clearcoat with spraymax 2k, (optional), but polish job will be much clearer and last longer. I always have to chuckle when I see people chucking their headlights because they're dull! They'll be better than new when you're done! Next I searched for the best bulb money can buy. I just happened to come across these on amazon, and for the price ($39) and reviews I decided to take a chance, Fahren, 60 watt, 12000 lumens LED's, I know what you're thinking, flickering, scattered light and no high beam, well you'd be wrong, these things are actually pretty dang amazing, they really are 300% better/brighter than stock! Beam is adjustable and has a pretty good cutoff, doesn't blind on coming traffic. And high beam actually kinda works. So far the best lights I've personally ever had, just hoping they last a good while. Maybe not quite as good as some high dollar projector HID setups but again, $39!!! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07XL7LLVS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Thanks, might do that next decent day weather size. My guess is probably toast the bushings in process?

Thanks LorenS, maybe it was because I had the weight of the truck on the axles? But turning the cam lobe towards the rear of truck was doable, turning them past 12 o'clock towards the axle wasn't, they would just spring back with force, hence the reason I had to hold the breaker bar with Jack.

FYI, it was not easy turning those bolts that direction, I used a 1/2 in breaker bar with a small floor jack under it, basically with bar at lowest point possible and then jacking up to horizontal and then tighten nut. (Might help someone else out)

So... I got around to fiddling with those cam bolts today, I turned them both ways but ended up turning approx. three "lines"/ notches towards the axle. Thanks for the help Haggar! Not sure if I'll mess with toe or not, drives WAY BETTER! At least 75% better, it's no longer scary, I can drive down highway with two fingers on steering wheel if I want without wandering back and forth, back and forth... Much more relaxed! You know that old saying, if you want something done right..... Thanks again, Dieseldon