flagmanruss

I've learned a lot about batteries in recent years. Marine/RV "deep cycle" are really hybrid batteries with enough power for engine starting & built to allow fast recharging. Automotive batteries have more CCAs but deep cycling will kill them. Leaving something turned on, in a car/truck & allowing the battery to drain flat, can kill a brand new automotive battery. Mobility batteries (and solar) are true "deep cycle"... gel cells or sealed AGM (Acid Glass Matt). Very different construction. Can not be fast charged, or the battery will truely be damaged. I have a spare for my Mobility Scooter... tested good so I kept it. I used a battery maintainer to keep it charged all one winter (rotating between the 2 on the scooter & the spare). Last winter I forgot, the spare got low... I left the maintainer on overnight... in the morning there was acid leaking around one post (so the internal pressure has blown the seal). Perhaps I should have used a timer. AGM batteries are HEAVY. I got a lot of money ($25) for the twin to the spare when I scrapped it. Now all this said... if I needed a battery & had an automotive battery... a wet cell... I would use it. It's getting old just sitting there with acid in it. Using on a RV with a power supply will keep it charged, avoiding the need to maintain it. PS I'm thinking of going to Marine/RV batteries on my vehicles on the next replacement.

Is the output stuck on defrost? If so this is the default mode, if the system fails. I've heard that one must pull the dash to change to module. (What a stupid way to build a system) Mine is stuck as above until I hit the lottery... My nephew crauled under the dash with his long arms and was able to flip the lever to the dash setting but of course it didn't stay.

Cummins went to the Common Rail in USA / Dodge in 03

That's why I've spent so much time & effort on the mouse combat!

It sounds better than average. At this point, it becomes a matter of choice, if you'll use it.It'd be cool with a Cummins in it!! LOL!! (Probably shake it apart)

Thanks John,What you are saying makes a lot of sense. The digital volt guages I ordered have a range to 30 volts. The 1156 bulb replacements I ordered for ~$2 ea do not have that spec. On the other hand, the 1156 bulb replacements are intended (by me) ONLY to replace cabin lights in the RV... would only be used at night and sparingly at that. The RV only has battery bank power when off the grid, so is regulated by the available battery power. The thing to check would be the Volts while plugged into shore power, presumeably regulated to 13.x When I charge off the generator, it is through the shore power connection. In fact, wouldn't our truck lights be considered self-regulated by the "voltage regulator" old school or "ECM" in modern vehicles? If the bulb is successful, I would consider using one in the head light (24 volt) on my mobility scooter, though it needs re-engineered aiming. Thankyou for the useful information. Perhaps the voltage needs to be regulated more tightly than 30 volts... I saw one digital volt guage advertized (I didn't buy) that specified that 24 volts should be used only intermittantly.

1989 was the second year that Ford put FI on the 460. I'm seeing reports of 12-13 in pickups but sub 10 mpg in RVs. Some reports of chipping the engine improving mpgs, also improved exhausts in one reported case. The condition of the power train is important... has it been started? I had a valve hang up in 6 months sitting in the yard. After that, I got smart & fogged the engine for storage after use. (Fogging might ruin the spark plugs but is cheaper than an engine.) When I throughly fogged boat engines for winter storage... after oiling, some would stall, others continued to run... about 50% would start on the old plugs, the others required new. A 22-3 year old RV... What is the condition of the roof & roof/side joints? That's where leaks start & are a major project to fix... You are buying a pig in a poke. No way to answer these questions in advance. If it was a dollars & cents decision, I'd walk away.

In keeping with my "take a chance" program (expecting some lemons but also hoping for some success)... I have been thinking of converting the trailer... at least partially... to low draw LED internal cabin lighting. USA sources are very costly. After a lot of searching I decided to, once again, take a chance on China... Shipment can take 30 days, but I can afford the delay. I'm using PayPal through my Credit Card... they keep wanting to charge direct to my BANK accounts & I change the setting to go to the CC for the protections afforded. Lumins are not listed though I've asked the seller for this data. (2) "bulbs" quanity for $1 + $3.30 shipping (no discount on multiples) for a cost of $4.30 / 2 or $2.15 ea. I made a test order & will see how the product is. If the product is acceptable, I'll order enough for the whole trailer! http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-X-36-LED-1156-Park-Rear-Stop-Turn-bulb-light-Bright-/170761858185?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item27c2332c89 Russ

Looks like a "mini-Winni". Don't know if it is. Certainly is an "in the family" deal. (I got my Mom's Cirrus with 5 years & 8000 miles for next to nothing. I still have her key fob on it, in rememberance.) Personally, I'd rather have a trailer. Like Mike says, you can unhook & use the truck. Easier to service... not every shop can put a motor home inside. One less vehicle to maintain. You can trade the tow vehicle & keep the same trailer.

I needed a grab bar & a towel bar for the camper shower. I bought 2 Peerless grab bars 16" & 24" at Wally World yesterday thinking the shorter one would go in the shower to hold face cloths, & the longer one vertically along the edge of the tub. Today I took the 16" one back & bought a second 24" bar. The 16" hit the molded in bumps on the back of the shower... the 24" can be shortened to fit. If I don't hit studs (not likely) I'll bolt through the partition for strength. The verticle one will be outside the tub & interferes with the molding. Either a) a spacer block underneath b) cut out the molding. I'm going to go for b). More details to follow.

Well, then, who would I be? I learned to drive on Mom's 64 Chrysler. My first car was '68 Plymouth RoadRunner. (Kept the RR until 1977. It ran like a bear but was a rust bucket after sinking up to the headlights on I95.)

I really liked having a digital battery reading (on the solar kit). I'm not planning to keep the solar kit. (3 15watt Harbor Freight panels for total of 45watts) It was a very well made set but not enough wattage for an active camper (9 days). I just ordered digital read out guages... cheapest prices direct from China... off E-Bay / Paypal to my CC. I can wait the up to 3 weeks shipping. I figured the electronics would be made in China no matter where I bought it & wanted to save the markup. I'll let you know. Ordered: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-24V-Digital-LED-Auto-Car-TRUCK-SYSTEM-Voltmeter-Gauge-Voltage-Volt-Meter-/220974117118?hash=item33731570fe&item=220974117118&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr I think it will be useful as a test guage. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-12V-24V-Red-Digital-LED-Car-Auto-Voltmeter-Voltage-Gauge-Tester-Volt-Meter-/120895807320?hash=item1c25f39f58&item=120895807320&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr I plan to install one on a switch in the camper. I plan to install a second on my 24Volt mobility scooter.

The news said there was hail where we were camped. Sounded like it on the roof (glad I wasn't in a tent). I was afraid our vents would get broken... but when I looked out I didn't see any hail. Didn't see the pop-up gabezbo either that was wrecked. Our Memorial Day weekend encampment has a history of monsterous weather. Over the years we've been flooded out more than once. Tornado missed us by a mile last year. The year before the camp took a lightning strike... some very lucky buckskinners were knocked down, shocked, minor injuries. I've seen hail that big in August in New Mexico (Philmont Scout Ranch). Never fun. The worst I've heard was softball sized in Michigin. Sister/bil (in USAF). Her car was wrecked, totalled... the B52s were pummeled. What is with this weather these days?

At least it left behind a Dodge!! My 454 woke from it's 5 years asleep, with a positive growl. AFB carb, edlebrock intake, cometition cam (towing), edlebrock timing chain, headers into oversized exhausts. When it fired off, it filled the barn & yard (front acre anyway) with the sweet grey haze of fogging oil... and settled down to a rumbling idle. Took me back to all the boats we winterized (200 a year for nearly 20 years). I'd had my CTD for 5 years... I was never going back... 454 Camper Special, Scamper 5th wheel parked next to my horse's paddock after we married '89. (The horse got to move in before I did!)

I really don't care for the current pex tubing, fittings & clamps. I Don't have much choice as my TT is plumbed with the stuff too. My ancient Scamper 5thwheel was originally plumbed in copper with all flairs. I knew the previous 2 owners. The first of which was quite competant (even if he was ex-bro-in-law). The owner in between claimed he'd never used the camper... neglected to mention that he'd put water in it, not winterized & let it freeze & burst ALL of the piping. I replaced it all with Quest which I had successfully used for years in boats. I did have the bathroom waterline freeze & push the quest fittings apart (when I was living in it in December)... when it thawed during the subsequent day, I got a flood. Putting the piping back together took minutes & never came apart again in the 5 years I used the trailer after that. Quest got a bad name when people put it into walls which could not be serviced. I have some Quest fittings in service going on 10 years in both my houses... in exposed basement locations, & toilet supply lines. I'm looking at installing a winterizing T but am turned off by the smaller passages in commercial T/valves (Camco). I have not tried the shark bite yet.

I feel your pain... Been there too, more than once. I guess the worst was when I sold the 68 RoadRunner... my first car of my own. The 80 Challenger (Jap). The 79 Chevy 454... broke my heart after 5 years in the barn, fired that mother up, burned the fogging oil out of it. I didn't even take it for a run up the street. (I never would have been able to part with it if I had.) Sounded like a bear, rummbling away. It is hard to move on, even when it the right thing to do.

Man, What a View!

Remove & Replace, sometimes Remove & Repair... it's mechanic shorthand. We are here to help one another, do not hesitate to ask questions... sometimes those of us who have been discussing some matter forget to explain fully, forgetting that others made read our posts later.Russ

I'd be scared to know the tongue weight... but the power jack strains to lift it. Hopefully no truck cop decides to find out!

After I bought the trailer, we made a couple of 400 mile trips (each way) to see my bro in upstate NY. We were able to dump at the City of Rome facility next door, so did not have this problem. Towed like a dream. There's only so much one can do with a weight distributiting hitch. Can't make it into a gooseneck of fifthwheel. In this case we didn't know we had a problem... didn't know about the weight shift problem.I found the tank specksfresh water 100 gal (834#) centered over axlesgrey water 45 gal (375#) 8' in front of axles black water 45 gal (375#??) 15' in front of axlesSo the magnitude of the issue is the weight shift of - 834# off the axles, to + 375# 15' in front of the axles. In a former life, I'd balance boat trailers by measuring tonge weight & moving axles which is not possible here. I had previously balanced my stock trailer for 2 horses in the rear with weight forward. There's just not cargo to move. I'm thinking of adding 400# of balast weight to the rear. By the time we get packed up & on the road, there's no way of knowing where to dump or if the people would be willing to... might end up to be after hours... it's happened before.

Yup, clumsy fingers strikes again. Yes, goose neckSince I don't have mobile internet, I'd have to locate a dumping station before the trip starts. I have a local campground & dumping station within a mile of home. I have seen HD trailers (in one case a construction equipment trailer) converted to a goose neck by a skilled welder.

My issue is excessive tongue weight... the weight distributing hitch can only do so much. Can I saw off the hitch & put a skeleton gooseneck hitch on it?

When you are camping... Do you find a dumping station before you head home?

I was lucky. When my OEM lift pump went out... I stopped suddenly... but the VP44 has survived it.

I was off on our annual rendezvous re-enacting camp trip. We got back after supper last night... we stopped at TGI Fridays resturant on the way home. I really needed the break from driving. The truck/trailer towed nicely going up... it was a "a female dog" driving home. 3 hours of white knuckle driving back from Western Mass Bershires. Moderate winds & passing Trailer Trucks would blow me all over the road. I think it was the weight shift as a result of empty fresh water tanks VS filled dirty water tanks. I think the fresh water is 100 gallons in 2 tanks over the axles. I dumped the grey water in the field. I don't know what the grey water/black water caps are... I've been trying to research 28' Thor TranSport. Anyone have a link to the specs?I really like the XZT+ chip for towing. I tried switching it +35 hp to +70 for hills but honestly, I think it was better to leave it in +70. The lie-o-meter went from mid 17s to 13.6 towing. As soon as I unhook I'll run to the fuel station & hand calc. I really like the Swirl resonator... really killed the drone. The camping part of the trip...I was RVing in the parking lot. We had a day camp inside the primitive camp with our friends in their group camp. I used my Wrangler scooter pretty heavily. When their camp was crowded, I sat on my rollator walker (I kept an Indian blanket over it to break up the look). When their camp was less crowded, I took the scooter through the high grass to the "back door" where I could scoot into the shade of their overhead fly, sat on the comfy seat (with another Indian blanket pinned in place) & was part of the group. The weather was an issue... sun, temps to 90, thunderstorms with rotation & maybe some hail which destroyed the pop up awning over the scooter. Sheila took pictures of the wreckage... At least it cooled off the last few days. The specialty of this camp was staying in the shade... I still got too much sun on my face / arms (cumulitive sun burn). It looked like I had a tan but most of it washed off last night, my first real shower in 10 days. (I had one "Navy shower", necessary after being sick one day, {sorry if this is "TMI"}) I have plenty of MS issues but I'm still pretty stable. We just emptied the 100 gallons of fresh water in the tanks... and 2 cases of bottled water. That's how we survived by drinking... peeing, drinking... peeing. The rig in in the yard... not placed yet. After the wife leaves, I'm going to level it some with planks so I can walk inside. (sing song: What do you do with a drunken sailor" while going aboard now.) With a 10 degree angle to port & movement of the tires... like being at sea in a sail boat (or drift fishing).The 45watt solar (Harbor Freight) is really nicely made... but they're too heavy for short term camping & not enough output for fridge & other 12volt draws. I really like the digital volts read out... would like to add one in the trailer cabin. I'll be selling the solar panels off. I think the set up would be useful on a RV or boat to charge cabin batteries all week for a weekend use cycle. Honda 1000 generator charged scooter & RV battery bank every 2-3 days in just a few hours. On a week long trip this is more useful to me. The Honda started with a full gas tank & I was still on the first 2 gal can. Never touched the other gas cans.The fridge ran nicely on propane with the new sparker. I unplugged the AC on the fridge to keep it on gas/12volt.