flagmanruss

I would burn it in a waste oil burner. I'd not run this through my Cummins. Back during the oil embargo, I had some 55 gallon drums of stale (leaded) gas (removed from abandoned boats to be destroyed). I ran the salvaged gas though by carbureted Datzun pickup. I ran it though a paint strainer, then a marine canister filter/separator, then put it in my truck. It ran, got slightly poor mpgs, I had a 2.5" glass bowl filter on the truck. If I included the cost of filters, the free gas was not much of a bargain. I wrote off the cost of filters as an expense to dispose of the hazardous waste.

MamaMia that's pretty pricey!! No aftermarket fix?

Well, it sure wasn't a V8... wouldn't burn rubber... but with the 5 speed and the 2600 it would easily pull 75 or more. Would have been a real scorcher with a 318... I had expensive Michilin XVS rubber on it initially... didn't have to slow down for corners.

I hope the grill is there... not too many parts missing...

It was a darn nice car if you could get by the reuse of the nameplate on a Jap built car. It had a lot of nice features for the era. It was a 2600 inline 4 OHC with a 5 speed stick. (And a black rub mark on the console where my holster rubbed on it. I paid it off working part-time second job for the local PD.)

For a low cost upgrade, a new muffler (maybe a big donaldson) with same in / out sizes and same diameter tailpipe (getting rid of the restriction of the step down) is gonna breathe better than the stock muffler (smaller out) & reduced tailpipe. My OEM pipe was good to the muffler.

These discussions on steering problems got me thinking. (http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4860-Info-needed-Asap-please-fellas) Too many years ago... when I was separated, divorce pending, my soon to be ex had my Jap Challenger. Came the day we swapped back... I found the car had a half turn or more free play in the steering... it was a challege to keep it between the lines. Whats-her-name was a bar fly... where I found her... where she returned... We have not spoken since I moved out and there would be no point in asking what she did to that car. (What's another lie?) I found the adjustment on the steering box was stripped out. WTF?? The dealership claimed they could not get steering boxes or covers? (Bad dealership advise, what else is new.) I was a mess at that time. I reluctantly let the car go. The next owner must have fixed it because I saw it on the road. I should have pursued repairs. I know now that I could have found used parts eventually or had the hole welded up & rethreaded. Live & learn... I guess this is just one of a list of regrets from that period... Russ

I've been drilling lots of holes & I'm in LOVE with cobalt drill bits. Today I drilled & tapped holes to secure lanyards for the hitch pins (coupler & tilt bed). Fussy? OCD... probably... but everyone who uses the other trailer which has a similar treatment likes what I did as everything falls naturally to hand.

All things are realitive... Tire error... my factory option tires read dead nuts on mph compared to my GPS. I am still running those tires & my speedometer is right on. Any changes in tire diameter (reguardless of size) will affect the actual miles run although the hand calulations using the factory instruments may read he same. When I was running stock engine, my overhead agreed exactly with my hand calculated MPG. With my XZT+ chip, the overhead MPGs are off varying with what program I am running, but the +35hp is reading about 1 mpg more than hand calulated. Still differences in driving or load that pushes the mpg up or down are still valid though the actual numbers are off. If the OEM maker made them adjustable, that would just encourage owners hot rodding their trucks. (If they didn't wreck the power when they smogged the trucks, we wouldn't need to hot rod the trucks... tell it to the EPA!) Sure would be nice if someone figured out how to modify the overhead to be adjustable.Some of the scan tools have adjustable parameters & therefore can give correct readouts for tires changes & different power tweaks.

Very well done. Slick install.Russ

Don't try this at home, kids... Yas know I was only haven't fun with the head honcho! I guess hanging out the door upside down, isn't a great idea either! LOL!! Sorry guys, I guess my brain is fried... Russ

Since you this backs up to your garage... what I wanted to do at my ex's place... (I moved out first, her loss)... I put a nice insert into her stone fireplace. The wall to the right, was an outside wall to the breezeway, garage beyond. What I wanted to do was build cabinette doors in the inside wall. On the outside, breezeway (your garage) build an insulated box with outside doors, so the wood box could be filled from the outside... without lugging wood through the house & w/o fanning the outside door. I saw it done somewhere. I know I saw one that opened into a cellar stairwell at my aunt's house... Just a thought...Russ

I know, nobody loves a smart @ss... figured we'd tie Mike's creaper to the front axle & have some ya-hoo drive it down the road... What???

These OEM lift pumps (fuel pumps) are very troublesome & prone to failure. Dodge's fix was a in tank pump which was expensive & hard to service & no more reliable than the on engine pumps. The VP44 Bosch injection pump, the 24 valves are equipped with, has proven to be somewhat fragile & ultralow sulfer diesel argueably makes it worse. For these reasons, you'll find many of us have gone to higher capacity & more durable after market fuel pumps like the FASS, AirDog, or Raptor. The higher volume helps to cool the VP44 IP. Big line & more open fittings kits also help the fuel volume. Additionally many of us are running 2 cycle outboard type oil as a fuel additive to make up for the lubrication lost in the ULSD fuel. This will support more HP but more importantly improves life of vital components.Running the VP44 out of fuel because of lift pump failure is a prime cause of Injection Pump failure. If you don't like the cost of a Lift Pump, you sure are not going to like the cost of replacing BOTH the lift pump & the VP44. There is discussion of these issues on many threads.Russ

I got the Cirrus back on the road. It wasn't cheap but I think there was some savings in doing both at once. In talking with their front desk guy, all the employees are very experienced. Many came from dealerships. All have been there several years. Experienced mechanics may cost more in the short term but ultimatelty cost less. Their Chrysler man owned a Cirrus 2 years newer than mine, had done the same repair, knew how to attack it. The trans line crosses over the width of the car... to get access they removed the under bumper clip. He beat the estimate by an hour!

I was surprised that my speedo (on the CTD) was right on... (but I found out my OEM tires are the factory upgrade size). The latest upgrade on my Tom Tom, changes the background when over the speed limit. My wife had been complaining for years about my "speeding" when we convoyed. Most other vehicles I've owned, the speedo read 10% fast. Not sure if wifee's Subaru was one of those subject to class action suit over short calibration reducing the car's resale value.

I really expected with your gearing that there would be more difference over my 4:10s. My GPS says my speedo is dead nuts on. I'd rather have had the stock ratio... I've never had trouble getting aload moving.

I've seen a few trailer trucks with V shaped skirts under the trailer to deflect air around the trailer tires... I'd like to know more about this. Obiviously does not go all the way to the ground.

How can you be running 2000rpm @ 65? With my 4:10 gears, OEM tires per my signature, I'm almost at 65 @ 2000... call it 2100. I'm running empty and babying it, I don't know the real mpg but the lie-o-meter is climbing. I'm making short trips so not a good comparison anyway.

Good news: bad oil pressure switch. Was leaking oil. Not too costly to fix... from underneath while on lift. Bad news: transmission line (patched by transmission shop: rubber hose & screw clamps) is leaking again. The shop offered to top up the fluid but I opted to leave the car. It'll be costly, mostly to get access, but will install high pressure hydraulic lines. I noticed recently had a bit of a tranny whine shifting... my reason for going for it. (I didn't tell them about the whine). This shop does a good job in looking a vehicle over & not turning a blind eye to things that are not right. They're not outrageously agressive in selling work. So I will drive the CTD until it comes back.

Sometimes if a link does not display in blue... try adding a space after the address.

Do you have a brake dragging? I did. Any codes?

Pardon my ignorance. I'm just wondering... while he has it apart... Is there a swap that would put the later type, easier to remove, discs on there.

I made an appointment to take the Cirrus in, to get the oil pressure checked. It is full of nice clean oil. Last change was at Jiffy Lube... I think it has 5w30... (I checked for leaks myself before I drove away.) I won't let 5W30 happen again. 10w30 or 10w40... Because I use a walker, Jiffy Lube tryed to upsell me on everything... even stuff I had already had done. I wonder how many people they sucker? They never looked at the vehicle. When I challenged them they did this song & dance "due to the age of the vehicle"... When I didn't buy the extras, they rushed me out... without completing the services I paid for. Did not top up fluids (coolant overflow & windshield washer was both low), didn't vacume, didn't look for grease fittings because OEM has sealed units but the front end repair parts are greasable. Not going back... just pisses me off. Anyrate going to the repair garage tomorrow.

I was not impressed with Titanium coated drills in the past. So I checked around & the best deal locally was a 13 drill set (14 piece includes the case) Ridgid brand cobalt drills at Home Depot foe $25. If I can punch the first center hole, I can open it up. edit The hole I'd tried & failed to drill... tried 1/8" cobalt + cutting oil. I had to push a little but once it bit, it went right through. I think it might have work hardened from my previous attempts. The other holes, it sailed right through. Enlarging the holes, I actually had to hold the drill up because it tended to catch & slip breaking through. Very happy!