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There used to be a devise... I think it might have been called "TurboSaver" a spring loaded piston which would be pumped up by oil pressure when the engine was running. It was installed in the turbo's oil feed line. When the engine shut down, it kept oil pressure to the turbo for a short period of time allowing the turbo time to spool down.I believe ISSAPRO made / makes a turbo shut down timer.

It would make the information easier to find. +

With my straight through "muffler", I don't need any more sound! Wife still wearing ear plugs!

The mason repaired the chimney & added a brick face... his "carpender" cut the wood overhang... supposedly closed it all up. There is a board hanging now that I'll have to have someone climb up a ladder to fix (about 3 stories). Once we get closed up & sealed we might have a chance to stop entrance. In the meantime, Sheila bought "TomCat" mouse traps... new fangled no touch traps. She had baited with peanut butter & placed it by the chimney on the deck, where the mice had crossed. The mice tripped it without getting caught & ate the peanut butter.I had bought old fashoned Victor snap traps. She set one & caught the first mouse in 10 minutes... total of 4 in the next hour. Strictly stop gap until we get the access closed.She thinks she hears mice over our heads at night. Probably a squirrel... last time I caught a red squirrel. I also screened the gable end louvers so I wonder how they are getting in this time? Nephew due to do electrical in attic over the weekend... lets see what he can find. (I anchor traps with wire or light chain to keep a near miss from disappearing with my traps!!

You'll never guess... click here

We were sitting having dinner... we both saw a large grey mouse run up the newly bricked chimney. A few minutes later a smaller mouse comes scooting down the brick, pauses on the deck before ducking in the whole where the chimney goes through the deck. I guess the mason & his carpender did not do a good job of sealing the wood against the brick. I remember stuffing the gaps with steel wool when we built the house. Here we go again!

I finally got around to positioning the trailer & unhooking after our camping trip. Then I took the truck to the fuel station. The overhead "Lie-O-Meter" said 12.5mpg average. With 224.2 miles run... except for return from fuel station & to fuel station... and some soft ground parking back & forth maneuvering, 10 minutes of idling with hood up to cool down the very hot engine... was all towing. 20.9 gallons. Hand calculates to 10.7 mpg towing. This is with the Quadzilla XZT+ on power mode running 2000 tune. On the highway, the truck had quite a bit more power, was much more driveable with this load.

Every "diesel conditioner" addative I ever ran cost me MPGs...

Gas is near $4 per gallon, but you don't need to buy a new car to get better mileage on your road trip this summer. Popular Mechanics put fuel-sipping advice to the test by outfitting an ordinary ten-year-old car with an extremely accurate fuel economy gauge and trying out all the gas-saving driving tactics we could think of. We bring you the six strategies that work, plus more quick tips for better MPG. By Mike Allen | Popular Mechanics Tactic No. 1: Coast to a Stop Brakes are necessary (duh!), but they're inherently wasteful: They take the kinetic energy of a moving car—energy it took pricey gasoline to generate—and turn it into heat that's lost to the air. Everyone knows that accelerating until the last moment then braking hard to stop is less efficient than slowly coasting to a red light. But PM's test data (illustrated above) prove what a huge difference coasting makes. The lesson: Whenever possible, anticipate that a light will turn red and ease off the gas. Generally, the less you have to brake, the better your fuel economy. Tactic No. 2: Avoid Slowly Crawling Up to Speed Conventional wisdom says that jackrabbit starts consume more fuel. But it turns out that nursing your speed up to the limit too slowly also lowers mpg. How can that be? Cars get poorer fuel economy in lower gears, and accelerating too slowly prevents up-shifting at an efficient rate. The best acceleration rate varies with the vehicle, gear ratios and weight. But in our testing we found that taking 15 seconds to accelerate to 50 mph used less fuel than taking 30 seconds to reach the same speed, because the car entered its top, fuel-​saving gear sooner. Tactic No. 3: Close Windows and Use A/C at High Speeds It's a fierce efficiency debate: Open the windows in summer to avoid running your energy-intensive air conditioner, or keep the windows closed and the a/c on to preserve your car's aerodynamic profile. (We'll leave aside the option of sweating it out.) PM's testing settled the issue. Driving at 55 mph with the a/c running, we got 24 mpg; turning it off bumped us up to 28 mpg. Then we opened all four windows, one at a time, and lost 1 mpg per window until we were back at 24 mpg. So at that speed, it's a wash. But aerodynamic drag rises exponentially with speed_—the faster you go, the more the open windows hurt efficiency. The answer? Below 55 mph, open the windows and leave the a/c off. But at 60 mph or higher, keeping them closed and the air conditioning running will burn less fuel. Tactic No. 4: Cruise at a Slower Speed Since the power required to overcome aerodynamic drag is a function of the velocity cubed (in other words, it shoots up quickly), a car's jump from 40 to 60 mph requires less fuel than the increase from 60 to 80 mph. (The hit to fuel efficiency is roughly twice as severe in the higher range.) So go slower, right? Well, yeah, but fuel efficiency isn't the only thing that matters. Some studies suggest that the old 55-mph limit saved fuel but cost us more in terms of lost work hours. Then there's safety: Going 55 mph when traffic is cruising at 70 can be dangerous to everyone. Just don't go 80. That will drain your tank quickly—and the costs add up if you also have to pay for a speeding ticket. Tactic No. 5: Climb Slowly (When It's Safe) Imagine driving on a flat highway and approaching an overpass. From a fuel-efficiency standpoint, the best strategy is to turn off cruise control and forget about maintaining a constant speed up and down both sides of the grade. The theory predicts that, and our data prove it. The physics work like this: Lifting off the accelerator while traveling up the hill and allowing your speed to decay trades some kinetic energy (related to speed) for potential energy (related to the car's tendency to roll downhill). You regain the kinetic energy—and get better gas mileage—on the backside. While hyper-milers—who are obsessed with getting the best possible gas mileage—claim significant economy benefits from this technique, our results showed only modest gains. Two things did happen, though: (1) We drew the wrath of a lot of drivers following us, as evidenced by their single-​finger salutes; (2) We were nearly sideswiped by an impatient 18-wheeler. Yes, the method does work. But we'll save it for lightly traveled roads. Tactic No. 6: When Coasting Downhill, Leave the Car in Gear There are those who refuse to be shaken from the practice of coasting downhill in neutral to save gas. This is a bad idea no matter how you look at it. Let's set aside fuel economy for a moment. Coasting downhill in neutral is illegal in most states. And it's dangerous in all states. In neutral, you have no way to accelerate to avoid a hazard, and if the engine stalls, you have no power steering or vacuum boost for the brakes. If the hill is steep enough to call for hitting the brakes to keep you from gaining speed, they're more likely to overheat—and overheated brakes lose effectiveness until they cool off. They'll probably do that right around the time the police show up to take the accident report. Here's the surprise: There's no trade-off between safety and fuel economy in this case. Leaving the car in gear while coasting downhill actually is more efficient. Why? Most fuel-injected engines today use computer-controlled Deceleration Fuel Cut Off: When you lift your foot from the gas while leaving the car in gear, injectors shut off automatically, and the car's rotating tires—which are connected to the engine via the transmission—keep the engine turning and the accessories running. So, the engine consumes no fuel at all while the vehicle is coasting downhill. In contrast, the fuel-consumption rate for an engine idling in neutral falls between 0.2 and 0.4 gallons per hour (gph). Splitting the difference and using 0.3 gph for our example, idling in neutral down a ½-mile-long hill consumes fuel for 30 seconds, for a total of about 0.32 ounces of gas. Popping the car into neutral actually wastes gas. This may seem counter-intuitive, but that's what data are for—replacing good guesses with solid facts. Watch the data, and over time the savings will take care of itself. Fuel-Sipping Basics Monitor Tire Pressure Keep your tires properly inflated, because low pressure increases rolling resistance. Few drivers check and adjust their tire pressure often, but it's a good idea to do it once a week. Plan Errands Carefully Reduce the miles you drive by running all your errands in one trip. Making a run to the dry cleaner and then picking up the kids after soccer practice? Don't make separate outings. A little bit of foresight will stretch your fuel economy. Warm Up the Engine Cars get better fuel economy when the engine is warm. So if you have a three-stop run, hit the farthest destination first, then work your way back home. A fully warmed-up engine will remain at an efficient temperature even if it's parked for 30 minutes. Make Right Turns Only FedEx does it, and the MythBusters proved it works: When city driving, make as many right turns as possible, even if it means going a few hundred yards out of the way. Reducing loiter time—or idling while waiting for traffic to clear—saves gas. Avoid Ethanol When Possible Gasoline that has been cut with 10 or 15 percent ethanol, called E10 or E15, is an mpg killer. Why? Gasoline stores more energy than ethanol (119,000 Btu per gallon vs 80,000). So it takes more ethanol than gasoline to go the same distance. Read complete article

I bent the wheel so that it locked up when it hit the strut!

Something more for me to look forward to... Like replacing VP44 and root canal!

Expensive scrap!! I hit a hunk of firewood that someone thoughtfully left in the road (car in front swerved at the last second)... I was driving the Cirrus... bent the inside of the rim all to crap! My garage found me a good used rim, had been cleaned... all 4 leak air these days, so I don't know what to say.

It seems odd that it will fire at all & then not run after. I think you are on the right track with checking the fuel system. What else is there on a 12 valve? In any event, this needs to be approached logically. #1 Confirm fluel pressure? It might be getting just enough fuel to fire then dying when asked for more. Failed shut down solinoid? Bad switch? Inquiring minds want to know!

If the dash is coming out, by all means fix this as well. I was not real impressed with the SS coupler from heater treater... just a sleeve with set screw or 2 as I recall... but the OEM plastic part is a bad joke. I had a plastic water system handle that broke in my camper... I turned a metal collar on the lathe, pressed it on & saved myself reemgineering to replace an obsolete part. My thought is that this could be done on the OEM coupling.

Outside of doing it yourself, I have no suggestions. When my dash was pulled to replace the AC, things never went together right which PISSES me off every time I get in the truck... which is one reason I don't go there anymore.As the Heater Treater guy said, you can test the little electric motor with clip leads. Orientate the gear train as I described. Reinstall. The hard part is (after carving a hunk out of the rubber under the carpet) getting the right ofset screw driver to turn the screws. There are only 4 holding it in. Very frequently, the plastic coupler fails. It's simple enough to make a solid one... the only magic in the heater treater guy is he knows how to get the cussed thing out.

Very similar tub... and support underneath... but all my staples were hidden. I could not have worked on the floor through your cut out. I don't know why they needed such a huge hole in the floor. I have decided that... like so many cabin cruisers I worked on... when I reinstall, I will put a wood block down each side & make the whole panel removeable with a few screws & finishing washers. That way I can easily access any time in the future. additional It was too hot for me in the trailer @ 95* so I went looking at materials to replace the panel with. After striking out at the home stores, I tried the local RV place. I ordered a drip gutter for over the front escape window (previously discussed) as they offered me a decent price. At first they didn't seem to have anything for the panel but when the older lady came by, she said all the had was "ceiling materials"... she took me in the back for a look-see. It was a similar material, only had it in white... used on ceilings & walls. They sold me a cut off scrap that will work for me for $15. A bit pricy (they had me then) but it will do the job correctly & be a decent match.

I crawled as far as a fat guy can under the camper refridge hoping to make a template... having failed with steel wool, to plug around the bathtub drains where the mice have been getting in. I can see more openings I can't possibly reach under the tub. I'm going to remove the finished panel under the lip of the tub & access it that way. I don't want to refinish the panel or the room TYVM! The top edge is under the tub lip... a screw in each top corner but the rest appears loose. The bottom is behind a piece of quarter round moulding which will have to be pried up... wonder what it's hiding. The verticle edges seam to be sealed with bathroom white silicone calk which should cut with a razor knife. I really do not want to be opening things up but I don't see any other way to keep the critters out. Hot today... more heat coming... not good for my MS. I'm going to have to plan to work the cooler hours. --- Update to the previous post... That was interesting... like Mike, I'll share my mis-adventure... I thought I was just going to free the panel in front of the tub & slip it out to gain access to the area under it where the plumbing goes through a good sized hole in the floor. I removed the quarter round along the floor, cut the sealant on the verticle edges, removed the screws in the top corners. I could not get the panel to start. I could not really see it but I was able to slip a firring piece under the tub & up against the panel from the 'fridge side... a couple of taps with a hammer to free it up, I thought. The firring burst right through the luan. Nothing to loose now, project became a demolition project. I ripped the luan off what I discovered to be a 3/4 x 3/4 frame that it had been glued & stapled to before covering with a wallpaper like surface treatment. The panel was clearly installed before the tub but I was not about to remove the tub (with the liklihood of damage & destruction) so this destruction was inevitable. Now that I have it open, I can see the tub resting on a plywood platform stapled to & supported by 2X4s. I have both the tub & sink drains through the hole in the floor as well as hot & cold water lines. The hole extends under the right corner of the front 2X4. I'm considering cutting away enough of the 2X4 to access the hole... plug the hole & then install 2X4 again. I'm actually relieved that I have both drains & do not have to wonder if there is another one on this side of the trailer... though there likely is on the kitchen side.

I keep thinking of the line "Hey, Ya'll watch this!" I did my crazy sh*t with 4 wheels under be (though sometimes they were not all on the ground at once). I had a 64 Chrysler very high in the air... about the 4th time I tried it, I blew out all 4 shocks on landing. Dumb @ss kids (we were).

I got "done" 2X no codes. The dealer claimed "no codes" but I don't trust them to have used the code reader as they missed the electrical issue & jumped to the Failed Fuel Pump diagnosis. As I posted at the time, Diesel shop got 4 codes. I don't understand it but there it is.

When I had my AD150 installed, I kept the OEM filter housing at the expense of the extra filter & fittings. I am running this exact Baldwin filter in the OEM housing. Nothing should get past the AD filter and separator, but retaining the OEM housing keeps the warning light active.

YES, batteries should be replaced in pairs... check your connections at the batteries & the lugs that attach to the cable ends... also the protected disconnects about 6" from the batteries. The OEM lift pump gets power on one side & grounds to the other... so both batteries and cross over wiring must be perfect. My lift pump stopped working... dealer diagnosed it as 0 fuel pressure & offered new lift pump ($1200) as a repair. I had the truck flatbedded to a real diesel shop who found bad connections... repaired & restarted with the OEM lift pump. I went on to replace the troublesome OEM lift pump with an AirDog. NOW I have good fuel pressure!Originally it was thought that 5 psi fuel pressure was adequate... the VP44 has proved fragile & it is now understood that much more fuel pressure is required to prolong the life of the VP44 IP.

When my truck quit, I got no codes in the window with the key trick... but the diesel shop got 4 codes with a code reader.

The refridge is against the shower wall... I crawled in under the 'fridge. Where the H & C water lines come through the floor I stuffed with steel wool & a 12 x 18 hole in the plywood where the drains go down... too big for steel wool! There apears to be a "painted fabric" (stiff) under the trailer frame but there's a hole & I can see daylight out the bottom. I'm going to try to fit sheet metal around the drain pipes & screw it down to the plywood floor. I'm thinking to make 2 overlapping sections with the pipe holes in it. The trick will be getting a drill/driver in there. I'm off to slay the dragon! (I'm reminded of a cartoon... dragon sitting by a pile of armor using the lance as a tooth pick... "Sometimes the Dragon Wins!")

Keep this up & you'll have to drive an AUTOMATIC like me!