That Guy

I want a log cabin on a small lake in the hills. It's a dream of mine as well. Life has an interesting way of giving us what we want in ways we dont expect. Balsam Mountain Inn French Toast Deep rectangle baking pan 12 pieces of bread ----should fit in the pan double stacked 1 1/2 cups milk and 4 eggs--- mix together 1 table spoon of vanilla--- mix in with milk/eggs pour mixture over the bread in the pan one layer at a time, it will soak in nicely 1 table spoon of cinnamon ------ lightly dust over the top on the bread once the milk/eggs has started soaking in let sit overnight refrigerated and covered with plastic wrap/foil In the morning, should be nearly completely soaked in, oil a normal baking sheet, remove plastic, set upside down on the deep pan and in one motion, flip it over so the soaked bread is on the baking sheet. Another light dusting of cinnamon drizzle syrup over it, bake at ~350-400 until edges start to caramelize (20-30 min) more syrup, dust with powdered sugar, place a dollop of whipped cream cheese on the serving, and serve with fresh assortment of berries(blue/straw/black) best with sausage and hashbrowns Serves 6 deliciously..... My not so elegant attempt at home.....

I'm slightly jealous of all you folks in the Northwest. Always wanted a farm out there in the mountains....... and snow. The tomato bisque followed with carved english roast beef..... yea.... I'm making myself hungry too. We haven't run any dinner trains since the whole corona thing took off. Lot of work but I miss it.

The clutch in the 97 is a stock napa unit I replaced back in 2011. It would be fine except for me putting out more power. I would like to stay away from a dual disk as well as full ceramic. I was looking at the Valair kevlar/ceramic. I've seen em around the $750 range. Neighbor has a 13" valair in his 96 with 3.55s and has grossed upwards of 30k hauling hay. He is a little over stock power.... maybe 250hp. I know South Bend is a sponsor here, and am certainly open to one, but I've never personally known anybody with one or have any experience. Heard good things though. So, I plan to throw some injectors in the mix in the near future owing to mine being original and starting to tick. Maybe 7x.010 or 5x.012's. I have heard that 400 hp and upwards of 1000 ftlbs is easily reachable with my turbo and those injectors. I suspect that I'm already well into the 300 hp range. The turbo will keep me under 1000* currently with no smoke. I still have stock timing as well but a bump to 16* or so is planned and a 4k gsk kit as well. Currently running no plate, but I have a Banks plate from an ancient Banks Git Kit that came with the truck. I will tow quite heavy on occasion. 20k gross would be on the low end and maybe into the low 30s. It's fairly flat near the property here in louisiana so I'm not too concerned with going wide open up 6% grades in 4th and grossing 32k. There is actually a stretch of road near the house that is perfectly flat and straight with no intersections for about 9 miles. Now that all that is out there, what do you folks think I should go with?

I figured I would show a good shot of what I do usually. We to recreate the fine dining experience of days gone by rail travel. I work as a waiter, cook, stocker, mechanical, bartender, manager, and general concierge. I'm in the middle. We are all very good friends The only time I got to see the train was the one time I wasn't working on it. They are speeding up with a 1.5-2% grade because behind me is a 4-5% grade, very easy to stall on. VIDEO0007.mp4

I agree, sounds like Otube. For transparency sake.... Mine failed open, so I didn't see enough of a pressure differential. Low was like 60-70 and high was 100-120.

Neighbor had an old man who had been working for his family since the 80's He was long retired and in his 90s when he passed. He worked till the day he died even though he was set for life. Also didn't want a cab tractor. Wanted to cut hay all day in the sun with no AC. Another man I came across was a retired TWA pilot. Loved work. At 93, I helped him dig a ditch.... he did most of the work. He is still alive, still working on little projects. Ate an apple and banana for lunch. I honestly don't know how they did it.

Probably a bit of Cummins bias on here, but I really don't think you would go wrong with either truck. The Cummins is easier to work on when they break, but you shouldn't have to worry about either one having major issues engine wise for a good amount of time. Ford did a good job on the 6.7. Both suffer from the somewhat short lived common rail injectors, as Mr. Mopar said. The Cummins in that year should still be the DPF/EGR (assuming they are still in place) whereas the Ford uses the UREA (DEF) with the SCR thing, if that is important to you. It really isn't that big of a deal, most seem to use about 1/2 gallon per 1000 miles. It may or may not need servicing on the Cummins with that many miles. My 2012 has started throwing a NOx code every now and then, it does a lot of running around unloaded, people who work them more seem to have less issues. How long do you plan on keeping the truck? Both should make 400-500k without much trouble, hot shots use both without much issue.

In the 24v quad cabs, the cab is basically the same except the floor pan has a spacer/riser/structural piece under the front supports of the drivers seats. The standard cabs do not have it, their mounts are exactly like 94-97. It is under the carpet, runs from the one mount to the other. I'm assuming it is a structural piece for rigidity or just strength because of the lack of a B pillar, assuming that it would be called a B pillar.

For over 8 years, the 97 has had no air conditioning. I just rebuild it entirely with all new parts, including lines. Yesterday, I think I got the charge correct and managed to get ~25-30* vent temps on high with recirculate. It was 97 yesterday and and I measured 75* on the floor after 30 minutes. All of this is at idle, though I did rig up a fan on the condenser to bring the highs down from 250-275. Currently, my pressures are 30-35 and 200-225. Used a parallel flow micro tube condenser and an evap that had most of the foam seal around it. I also replaced all the foam in the air box and replaced the blower motor. The new (not reman) compressor is a Denso. The old system was never replaced after the wreck and remained open for a long time which is why I bought all new stuff when my old was still working when broke. The old system also had a clogged evap from dirt and crud so airflow was abysmal. Yesterday, I charged up the system after being under full vacuum for a good week, and my variable orifice tube failed within about 5 minutes. So I bring the system back down, pull it apart at the Otube and the top falls off while the bottom remains in the condenser. A lag bolt of appropriate size got it out. with no fuss. New one is a blue fixed orifice. Pulled vacuum again, recharged, beautiful cold air. I don't have scales suited for a 30lb tank, so I added a little at a time until the performance was tip top. Didn't freeze up after 2 hours, so I think I'm either close or spot on.It is frigid in there now. I love it. Now to install seats out of a 24v CCLB.....speaking of those, any of you 24v guys happen to know the height of that spacer under the front mount of your seats? I think its ~1". I saw it in a pull-a-part the other day and didn't measure it then.

It's well worth the trip. The real gold is the next morning. We woke up around 4am so we could watch the sun rise. There was absolutely no one there. We didn't see another human until about 8. Then at 9 the helicopter tours started and pretty much ruined it. By 10, the place is basically swarming.

It's not too late to quote this right? I have a set of lights off of a 1916 Pullman office car. They are rated at 1000 watts at 75 volts DC. Having seen a set in action, I would put them against anything anybody has mounted to a car. The housings have an 18 inch mirror as a reflector. The discerning businessman of years past must have been astonished by the amount of light it put out when most people still used kerosene lamps. Joking aside, I just bought a set of clear lense headlights for the truck with the sole intent of cramming 2, or maybe 3 (if it will fit) morimoto projectors in each one. I can't remember where I saw it, but I came across someone's signature on one of the HID retrofit forums that had managed to fit 4 bi xenon projectors in each housing for whatever car it was. Total came out to 24,000 lumens. Signature was titled, "Pure Driving Heaven" with an aerial shot of the car illuminating about a 1/4 mile of lit interstate brighter than the street lamps. I don't think these headlight housings have enough real estate to fit 4 sets, but 2 should fit side by side.

Mother and me at the Grand Canyon at sunset, It was windy. We were the only people there in a 24' U Haul full of my late grandmother's belongings.

I occasionally uncap the headers on my 350. When I'm done, I hop in the Prius and enjoy the quiet. Old grey beard once told me, your weekend toy and daily driver can't be the same thing. I think that applies here.

I was really hopeful for that, but it seemed to fall thought due to lack on investors. (Correct me if I'm wrong) The exhaust brake on my 351ve will slip the rear tires on a wet road in 3rd gear. It just doesn't have the effect of cracking like a jake though.

Sounds like a bit of corrosion on the connector. As you throttle up, the top of the engine torques over to the passenger side, that could cause the wire to move a bit and affect continuity of the connector. By unplugging and plugging it back in, you made better contact in the connector.

I think it takes a 1" socket.... maybe bigger, that will be your best bet, hard to get a swing on a wrench. It will need to be a deep well, and keep in mind that the plastic on it is fragile. It is very simple to test with a multimeter. Hook to it and put it in a pot of water, preferably with the plastic out of the water so the water isn't being measured. Set it on high and you should see a fairly linear change in resistance from cold water to boiling. I dont think thats the problem though. It isn't something that typically fails, particularly a factory cummins unit. Engine temp also doesn't spike that quickly. The gauge can respond pretty quick (140-190 in maybe 2 seconds), but if it is jumping then that's not the probe. You could plumb a in another gauge in either location, but the back of the head is typically chosen because that is where the hottest temps are. It seems like you may have a ground issue/wiring issue. Is it purely RPM dependant? What does the gauge do when in neutral while idling/free revving? Do any other gauges seem affected when you rev the engine (speedo/fuel/voltage)? What is the resistance from the negative battery post to other grounded metal things (engine/body/metal part of dash/frame)? Shouldn't be higher than 1 ohm once scratch around on clean metal.

That has no right to look that delicious..... It's almost worth the 45 minute drive

It would have been nice, but it seems to be unaffected by temperature. At least, owing to the 95-100* days here in Louisiana.... however, it seems that most of the spreading is in doors in air conditioned spaces. Not too many folks who are outdoors all day seem to be affected. Relatives in Phoenix pretty much live in doors as do most others there.

Would you mind posting a picture of the welding job on the frame?

I'm wondering, how did IBMobile get such a good picture of dripley while social distancing?

I just got the head back from the shop. Measure 0.007 of warp, no cracks, 6 bad valve guides (all exhaust), and the #6 exhaust valve was bent near the keepers. The bad, no smoking guns as to why the gasket failed. Any ideas? Maybe I didn't get the head torqued correctly? It lasted about 10,000 miles before it failed. It did not mix with oil or get into the cylinders. Unfortunately, I did not grab a picture of the gasket I pulled off, however, I have a doodle of the new gasket as to where it failed. The red is where the gasket failed, the blue is the path of the coolant. It failed near #2 and #5 and was starting to fail on #3&4.

I'm fairly strong, and I haven't managed to move one let alone pick it up. It looks to be 3/8in wall. I'm not sure I have anything at my disposal that would bend it..... tough stuff.

What is the purpose of the sand? More weight?

A friend of mine has a 76 Power Wagon. Think of the classic 70's idea of a off road truck.... massive roll bar, KC Daylighters, steel wheels with classic off road tread, home made bumpers that appear to be pipe filled with concrete...... the works I really like the look and strength of the bumpers and I happen to have about 600 feet of drill pipe. I have a warn 12k winch that I would like to fit in as well. I'm also thinking of a platform for ease of access to the hood. Any of you folks that have experienced these, pointers, issues you have had, pictures, or things to avoid? Ideas appreciated.

Yea... that was my thought as well. He was fine when he was trying to find a way around a disability law involving historical items, but not when it affects him (The legality of having a "service" chihuahua on a train). Can't have it both ways. The right to refuse service is pretty clear.... You have to be consistent in your application of the law. I can say no blue hair in my store, but I cannot pick and choose which blue haired people I exclude, I would have to do them all. As an aside, historical things, such as trains and buildings that are operated as a historical site, are not required to cater to the ADA.