That Guy

@Gregturley Sure enough.... Thats them. I bought some aluminium sheet to make a heat shield out of and I should have plenty left over, and I think it may work as diaphragm. That said, I would still be interested in that set of horns.... or both. What do you do for work that you have 2 sets of those just laying around?

I had a twin trumpet set mounted on the inside of the drivers side frame rail next to the transfer case and facing forward. Off of a late 60's GMC car hauler. The copper disks in mine started to fail and I havent had any luck sourcing new ones.

Much is personal preference, but also budget. The big ball in the sky that converts hydrogen into helium via fission puts out about 5500-6000k normally and about 6500k when overcast. The human eye tends to see best in that range, and really closer to 6000k. In the HID world, 5300k is the most efficient with lumens per watt, 6000k is within 10% but most people seem to like the slightly whiter light. HIDs will be much happier on a relay harness and less likely to burn up the factory in dash switch. They have a warm up period when they first turn on which draws quite a bit more power than a halogen until they are warmed up. They also require separate ballasts. Do not put an HID in the stock housing. Nothing good comes from it. Projector required. LEDs are a bit opposite. The brightest LEDs are actually closer to 8000k but have phosphor (the yellow color you see when looking at an unpowered LED) in the resin/gel over the chip to bring the color temperature down more to daylight but also decreases lumens output. Even still, a good set will meet or beat the output of 35w HIDs in the 5500-6500k range these days. Some LEDs are a not bad on the second gen lights as a plug and play, but need to be re-aimed so as not to blind people. Projectors are ideal in both cases and make much more even and useful light output and less potential to blind traffic (or yourself in the case of street signs). Clear lenses are also nearly required for good clean light. If I was to have a set built for myself, 6500k/D2S 5.0/black housings and clear lenses. I bought a set of headlight housings off amazon for ~$80 to play with and I think I'm going to try the Morimoto M2.0 LEDs projectors.

Is it a manual or auto? Stock, they tend to have a very conservative tune. Manuals even more so. By all rights, they should throw you into the seat..... they don't. My 12v with the same vgt turbo can light very hard by 1500 rpm (18psi) and will put you in the seat by 1800. If you are used to the response of a 12/24 valve..... prepare to be underwhelmed. It is a much more subtle and linear spool and throttle response. That said, they can get sticky and many have been replaced under warranty for it. Fuel treatments....There are things that show they help, and Cummins endorses power service. Honestly though, unless the diesel you are getting is questionable or in cold climates, it rarely seems to be needed. Higher cetane isn't necessarily better and the CP3 was designed for ULSD. I run a can of stuff through when the NOx sensor throws a code, then it goes away for several tanks. I suspect that has more to do with it being used as a grocery getter more than anything else for most of its life.

Basically what you said, and service all the fluids (brakes/diff/trans/power steering/coolant). That's general used vehicle advice particularly when its been sitting, and all the fluids are due for a service if they haven't been done before anyway. Really not sitting long enough or old enough to worry about seals. The tires will have a date code on them. Can tell how old they are, but they don't like sitting long term, can start flat spotting like you wouldn't believe.

Sleeping on it, I remember reading somewhere about that weird double ujoint front driveshaft killing xfer cases somehow when it starts going out. I have tried to find it again to no avail, you may have better luck.

A.K.A. Shopmath..... less scary.

Second pulling the covers, especially if you have never seen inside before. I'm unsure on the AAM axles, but the Dana's have the ratio on a stamped metal tag on the outside. It is possible that someone swapped the gears or the axles. Can always put it in 4lo and have someone idle it straight in gravel and look for any slipping. Depending on if the rear is limited slip or open/locker will determine whether both wheels need to spin. Spinning the driveshaft is an option. Has the output shaft on the trans been checked? Also, a little basic trigonometry will tell you if the driveshaft is too long.

If you can pull a solid vacuum on all the settings, the lines are good. If you can cycle through all the vent configurations (defrost/feet/face/ect.) the lines are fine. The actuator isn't vacuum powered, its electronic. I don't recall on these specifically, but you may be able to open it up and see if there are any burnt components or worn contacts, assuming that the little plastic piece that Towrigdually mentioned is in working order.

The blend door actuator is about where the passengers left foot is. It has probably gone out, or isn't hooked up. Also, a heater core either leaks or it doesn't. It would leak any time there is pressure on the coolant system, it's not like older cars where there was a valve in the heater hose. It doesn't matter whether the system is on cold/hot or if the fan is on/off.

I don't look forward to redoing parts of the rear wiring..... somebody went at them with (aptly named) vampire clamps to install a 5 pin round socket in the side of the bed.

Was playing with the he351ve, the vanes have a sticky spot in the very middle of the range. I suspect that some of the vanes have somehow bent just a bit. Not sure how, but it moves free when the cartridge is out. I haven't had it apart since 2014, and it worked fine then. Anyhow, set it in the corner and bolted the hx35w back on. Had to cut the bolts to the adapter out to get them to come out. If I decide to use it again, I think I'll just get a manifold with a T4 flange (T4i?). Going to work on ball joints this weekend.

Installed a Drawtite in the 2012 the a few months ago. Having hands on it, it was very heavy (more than 150lbs) and seemed to be well built. UPS damaged the box and a package of hardware was missing. Drawtite sent an another one for free and expedited. Still have the other one sitting in the corner. Already has about 1500 miles of 20-30k on it. That said, most guys seem to prefer B&W.

If you have to have any emissions inspections done to keep it registered, it will fail. Even places that don't do emissions testing but require inspection are supposed to fail it, some shops will, some won't. I wouldn't shy away from a deleted truck, but in my case, I do not have to worry so much. That may change in the future. The dealership seems like they are trying to sweep a trade in under the rug so they don't have to eat it, likely they didn't check it first or they got it for a steal. Can be very costly to replace all the ripped out or gutted components.

The band anchor on the auto in the earlier second gen (and maybe later) is attached to an adjustment screw on the outside of the case. It has a tendency to fall out with wear of the band if it has never been adjusted. It is an easy fix, but a known issue. They are not any more unreliable that other truck transmissions of that time. Still just a mechanical automatic with a few solenoids. Otherwise they tend to be fairly reliable if taken care of.

Dot 5 is always an option. It has lasted 30 years so long as the lines don't rust first. That said, I used mopar's method a few days ago. I haven't felt a pedal like that in the truck since I got it. If I had one, I would use a pressure bleeder. Install the cap, pump it up, open bleeders until air/nasty stops. Takes like 5 minutes for all 4 wheels. Had one when I was working on tanks.

I have never been to a pull-a-part type salvage yard that didn't have at least half a dozen of these style trucks. The options are all that matter as long as you stay within the correct years, in your case mostly 2000+. Gas/Diesel and 1500/2500/3500 all are effectively the same wiring wise, with few exceptions. The doors themselves should all be the same so long as you find them with the same specs, power windows/locks/speakers ect. Could likely have a whole cab worth of wiring harness for ~$100

Today, picked up my tires that a friend gave me, Milestar Patagonia M/T's in the 285/75/16 variety, he apparently wants to get rid of them because he wants to put 20's on his jeep...... Got one of the hubs together and brake assembled. Used dry ice to shrink the axle, slid right on. Spent too much time driving around to get much done. I did cut a hole in the installation cup for the sleeve. I'm almost certain that the wheel seals went out because the spindle nut wasn't torqued correctly and came loose and allowed the hub enough vertical play to carve the grooves. I saw no wear in the bearing, only minor pitting and a bit of a matte finish on some of the races. This truck is anything but cheap..... But, it should be in tip top shape once its done. Makes me wonder how many of those "mint" condition trucks going for $30,000 have drivetrain issues.

Appears to be factory width, I'll measure tomorrow, but, more than 2, less than 3 inches. It is a 3 core. Measured..... It is 2 1/16" thich. A worse picture, can see the three cores.....

Friend found a 97 12v 2wd 5spd 3500 w/225k in a field for $500. A/c still works. It needed a bit of TLC, but perfectly serviceable. SMOKING deals can be found if looking and asking around enough.

Well, the two studs that go into the rubber bits that go into the core support were about 3/8ths of an inch too wide, so I cut a bit of the rubber to make it work. The cap isn't the greatest, and it doesn't have the two little tabs that the fan shroud goes into on the lower part. As far as craftsmanship, it looks fairly decent besides the those little niggles. It isn't a Mishimoto(I think that's the company that makes the $700 one), but it looks perfectly acceptable, considering the price. It does have the studs that the battery cable screw onto. I'll post back once it has a few miles on it.

Yes...... It was $35 to enter the Grand Canyon. I have a few camping spots back in TN/NC/SC that are in free to stay at. Granted, I do not have a camper yet, in the market for one though. Knowing what the national budget is divided up into is a scary prospect. About 2/3rds is either social services or payments on debts.

I've decided to start a thread specifically for detailing the path to restoring the truck back to proper, full functioning condition. I replaced the radiator with a fully aluminum one that's welded and brazed. Ebay special, $225 shipped. Actually looks to be quite nice. Even has a proper threaded bung for the petcock. I also started work on the rear axle. All four bearings show pitting and damage. I found that both seals have been replaced before and the surfaces are both shot. They had been replaced with speedi sleeves and they were both worn. Drivers side, also with shot wheel cylinder. Pass side. Driver side Pass side One of the bolts that holds the axle shaft in simply snapped off.... I suspect it was over torqued the last time these were apart. Luckily, it backed right out with no fuss. One of the speedi sleeves..... Can anyone confirm that the speedi sleeve P# is 99287 for the D80?

To start off, this is in the wrong forum, you are looking for a second gen. @Mopar1973Man We would need to know more about the truck to give you a better idea, but in general, mileage isn't a scary prospect so long as the truck hasn't been abused. Still, by 300k, most are going to need some type of moderately expensive work in the near future.

Wait..... $20 dollars for FOUR cords of wood????? It's $50 in Tennessee at a minimum and there are no places to collect it yourself like out there. And in Louisiana...... Easily $100-150. And Louisiana is a huge producer of lumber. I'm pretty sure it is illegal to go collect wood in the Cherokee National Forest that isn't already dead. That's the closest government owned woods to me. Everything else is all privately owned. You have amazing property Mr. Mopar, and I'll have to pick your brain about that hydroelectric setup. I almost decided to go to school for civil or electrical engineering.