That Guy

Cummins says that the bolts can be reused if they are within their limit. That goes out the window with 20* of timing on a 12v. Stock bolts will not hold that. The rest of the mods are fanning the flames.

Got doors swapped, got the body panels aligned to some degree. Need to weld on the doors and figure out how the infinity stereo wiring works. Neighbor of mine, wants to sell me some of his old mopar stuff. He has 3 Little Red Expresses 2 C bodys, 2 B bodys, and 3 Dakota's, 1 Shelby, 2 Convertible, and a Orange 2004 Hemi GTX 1500 w/ 10k miles that still has new car smell. There is no telling what all else. Spent nearly two hours talking with him so I didn't get as much done on the truck, but I might get some cool stuff out of it. He's a retired geologist for Exxon. Diabetes is taking his legs.

Thank you Me78569, This has been, and continues to be, an invaluable tool for finding replacement parts for my truck

You should be able to take the turbo off with the drail line attached. It slips into a little silicone hose behind the oil cooler. Should just have a little worm clamp holding it. Just take the exhaust off and pull the whole thing up. That is assuming that the hard line loos like so. https://www.genuinedieselpart.com/products/turbo-oil-drain-tube-5-9l-24v-cummins-dodge-94-02

Used to be able to heat up bolts and screws and blow them out with the gas axe without harming the surrounding metal. I haven't don't it in long enough I wouldn't trust myself, but, you could heat the head of a bolt in the same manner and them back it out. Just don't hit the oxygen lever.

Decided to start moving panels over this weeked. I also figured that I would primmer the rust spots on the hoof and driver side fender from the doner. I went ahead and shot clear coat (all rattle can stuff) over the hood and where the clear is peeling off of the other body panels. I figure that when I go back and have a half decent paint job done, the clear and primmer will at least preserve it where it is for the time being rather than it continue to get worse. Battery acid really did a number on this one. I'm also not sure what that black and green discoloration is, I pressure washed it and it wasn't doing anything. I just wont worry about that for the time being. Seems like a good stopping point for the night. Mosquitoes were threatening to carry me away.

I need to do this on my 2012. That hard plastic just isn't remotely comfortable for any long trips.

On the oil drain, heat seems like the best bet. I have been wanting one of these for a while.

Less than ~ 4.5 turns lock to lock would be a quick ratio box. You can check steering shaft slop by having someone turn the wheel back and forth and see if there is slop. But that usually just means a lot of play. Binding while turning, or while taking sharp curves is indicative of a worn steering box. A badly adjusted box can cause binding and the wheel would not want to return to center. Can we assume that this truck is an automatic? If so, when letting off the throttle, the engine rpm drops. That would mean lower output from the very likely equally worn pump resulting in weaker steering and brake assist.

It sounds like something in the steer box is binding. If the fluid has been in there for a very long time, it will start wearing the metal parts as contaminants build up. PS pump may be weak as well.

Looks like you have hit it with a center punch. I drill them out just shy of the threads, then cut the end twice to make an X pattern, then tap one or two of the tabs in and it should almost fall out. I should say, if you get just shy of the threads, it may back out anyway as it has some give to it. Short of that, heat and your prefered penetrant. Heat it up, spray some in, tap with hammer, work back and forth until it starts to work out. That works about half the time. Rust... well, iron oxide, is roughly 10 times the size of the base metal. So, 1mm of iron can create 10mm of rust. It is easy for that to lock it in so tight it will never come out. At least in this case, it isn't a blind hole.

I have used Indian Head shellac on old school flat heads with copper head gaskets, but I've never heard of someone adding something to these. Are you sure the block/head aren't warped?

Bent from when the cam gear broke I assume. I had seen ~52psi at one point for about 1 second, but that was years before it failed. Normally a max of about 35psi. Short story, the previous owner had the kdp fall out and break the the timing case. So, like any farmer mechanic, they torched the cam gear to get it off the cam so they didn't have to pull the cam. Put the new case on and proceeded to torch the center of the gear again. Fast forward about a decade, I'm doing 80 trying to keep up with traffic in Michigan and I hear a strange whistle. I pull off at the next exit thinking the exhaust came loose and I was hearing the turbo. Nope. Shut the truck off. Looked around everywhere, nothing. Fired back up and it sounded like hell. Shut it off immediately. Pulled the timing cover and found that the 3 spokes had broken and allowed the gear to slip about 60* out. It was still turning with the engine. It bent 7 push rods and shattered 7 tappets, and apparently (as the shop just told me), bent the #6 exhaust valve and toasted all 6 exhaust guides. They said it was bent just below the keepers. They checked all the other valves and they were fine, reground the valve seats as well. The exhaust valve wasn't leaking. This picture was taken in Dec 2011, The gear broke in 2014 IIRC. I pulled the cover because the crack seal was leaking. You can see the discolored spokes of the cam gear.

Bit hard to tell with no code. Emissions are suspect, my first guess is the EGR system.

That evap looks worse than mine, but par for the course. I see heat vent temps in the 160-180 range.

Mine did something very similar when it was wrecked years ago. I just bought new bolts at the hardware store and locktited them. They are supposed to have something on them from what I remember. My question, why do you need to remove the fan? The bolts are able to be accessed with it in place. Welding the pulley in place it only going to make future work harder. When I removed my cooling fan, It required a vise mounted to a truck, a 6 foot cheater pipe, and a torch.

You might need a different pitman arm. The 12vs and early 24v trucks have the same taper. The later 24vs have the newer taper. I'm unsure what the cutoff years are.

I'm actually considering the 4 wheel full air ride system from Kelderman. My mother is wanting to buy another truck to ride around town in because the dodge beats us up going to the hardware/feed store. $7500 suspension upgrade is cheaper than another $30,000 Chevy. In the mean time, I'm going to try some shocks. At 90k on the clock, they can't hurt. This last trip was brutal. It was a goose neck, neighbor says he thinks the mounting location in the dodges needs to be further forward. There is a brace in the bed about exactly where he likes to mount them. The ~3" difference between the two spots makes all the difference according to him.

I just pulled in from my 11 hour drive from Chattanooga with 15k in tow. I have found that the truck bounces in a resonance when on a poorly paved interstate while under throttle, no issue when coasting. If I let off it stops, back on and it starts again. Slow down to about 35-40 and it goes away, not really feasible on a 70mph interstate as the bad surface may go on for miles. The best way to describe it is feeling like the shocks are completely gone, but it only does it on very specific buckling highway. I can hit large bumps and bridges, and no bounce or anything consistent with bad shocks. The speed at which it happens is based off how far apart the buckles are, usually about 4-6 times a second at 65mph. Uphill/downhill has no effect, only road surface and throttle, exhaust brake does not cause it. Because it only does this when under power and with a heavy load, I'm thinking axle wrap may be an issue. The more throttle applied, the worse it is. Ideas? In my mind, if it is axle wrap, maybe track bars would fix it. Maybe the shocks aren't strong enough?

I think I'm going to put some window screen over the recirc door in the cab and do the genos filters for outside. I thought on it for 3 days trying to figure out where to feasibly put a filter...... I couldn't find a place with enough clearance except external.

Normally they start a little stiff. Will loosen up within the first 30-60 seconds.

There are guys who run a setup with 2 Lincoln fans, which would get you closer to the stock fans ~10,000cfm at 2000 rpm iirc. The newer plastic fans off the 3rd gen trucks flow even more. Now, the Lincoln Mk VIII fans I have heard flow 5500cfm while the Taurus fans flow 4500cfm. They pull start amperage like the grid heaters. Upwards of 60 amps on high for starting. I personally ran with no fan at all for about 6 years. Never had any issues in the the occasional city or stop and go traffic. Light towing at highway speeds wasn't an issue. Pulled ~8k up a 6 mile 6% grade with no issues at all with 60* ambient. When I did my recent rebuild on a lot of things, I reinstalled the fan (still hunting a shroud). If I was just putting around doing daily driver things and racing v6 accords at the lights with no A/C, I wouldn't have worried. Since I put A/C back in and intend to use it as a farm truck, a fan is necessary. So, how do you plan to use the truck?

Why do you think the pump is shot? I'd find a decent shop in your area and have them do it unless your pump is broken in half. Otherwise, BD Diesel is a fairly decent rebuilder. They come in at around $1500 after they have the core. 18* seems a tad on the aggressive side for something you want to keep and drive daily that is otherwise stock. Tend to start running into head gasket issues if you are completely stock, and since you seem to want 3k springs, it won't be very useful to you. The manuals come with 3k springs. On the delivery valves, I haven't heard of marine ones specifically, so, maybe they are 181's? If so, thats plenty to make upwards of 600hp. You could make 350 hp with no plate and those injectors with a boost elbow and ~16* of timing as the truck sits.

Easiest thing to do is plumb in a gauge and see what sort of pressure you are getting to the CP3, that is assuming that the fuel filter is indeed fine. How many miles are on the truck? I had a issue where it sucked water into the system and destroyed the whole system before I could stop. It still ran, but very poorly and had a dead miss. ~$9000 at the local diesel shop for all 6 injectors and a CP3.

I used part store engine paint and primmer.... good to like 500* or so with no bake time. I have worked it and havent had any issues in 2 years/ 4000 miles.... Its not exactly a daily driver anymore. All that said, I was handed a bare block. Paint was gone do to machine shop cleaning it. I was very paranoid about oil being on it so I cleaned the whole thing with acetone on a rag. Got a lot of stuff off. If I was going over old paint, I think Id just rough it up with some 120 grit, clean it good, then paint it.