That Guy

The pickup was some auto store unit. He said it was more open on the sides than the factory one. I also suspect it has the corrugated tube may be cracked. If I think through the whole thing in my head, he probably got it back bled and running and then drove up/down a hill and caused it to pull more air that it wasn't pulling. At this point, I've convinced him to check the in tank unit. My personal preference is to pick up the side of the bed and his is to drop the tank. Said he wants to wait until the ground isn't frozen.

Replaced whole in tank unit. No pump was in the tank, still had the old unit sitting in the bed, just the 2 wires going to the fuel level sender. I checked it out and am not sure why he replaced it. Has factory style electric pump mounted under the factory fuel filter assembly. I'll check the screen next time I see him, hopefully not on the side of the road again.

I feel special today for having a reason to post in the 24V section, but I digress. Friend bought a 01 2500 2wd auto and it has about 310k on it. The injection pump and injectors had been replaced just before they bought it. $3000 and had a "bottom end knock" which turned out to be a cracked flex plate. So, the fuel pump went out on him and he replaced the in tank unit and the block mounted pump. Ran fine for several days and then it stutters and dies. He bleeds up to the injection pump and it fires off. Makes it about 3 blocks and does the same. Won't fire back up. (He is one of the duller knifes in the drawer but learns his lesson. Hard to get all the information out of him because he doesn't associate things.) Calls me, I show up tools in hand. Getting plenty of fuel to the injection pump. Was only coming out on the No 4 injector line. Wasn't getting a drop from 1-3-5. Couldn't get to No 2 and didn't try 6. Electrical checked out so I moved onto fuel, took forever to bleed so I gave up. Disconnected the grid heater and shot some ether into the turbo with the lines cracked. 10 seconds in, fuel is pouring out of the lines so I tighten them up and it idles. Has the odd stumble. Shut it down after a few minutes. Won't fire on its own. Fire it up on ether again and he fills the tank. The stumble stopped once some fuel was in it again. Now, I suspect he may have gotten the supply and return lines crossed when he installed the new sender/pickup assy, or maybe the new sender is bad and sucking air at 3/8ths of a tank. Am I wrong in my assumption? Other ideas? My first time turning wrenches on a VP44 truck. He did make it 20 miles back home without incident.

I keep all of my waste oil for various uses. Use it for keeping wood from rotting or rust protection or even mosquito control and starting fires. The entire underside of my truck beads water, but a lot of that was before my time and several oil leaks. At least there is no rust.

Breaking it down, U = Chip quality/grade A = Automotive temperature range U = Chip format, in this case, Umax size, 3x3mm with 8 or 10 leads B = Lead count, 10 or 64 (+) = lead free (/V) = automotive qualified quality control T = furnished as a tape reel for pick and place machines The 9924 only comes in the Umax format you used. If you go back to the data sheet, you can see the variations on the chip in the first page. The chip suffixes can be decoded on maxims website here. https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/design/packaging/package-information/maxim-naming-conventions.html

The easiest way to solder surface mount is with a hot air base station and a pair of ceramic tip tweezers. Barring that, the tiniest tip on a traditional iron make work. I'm not sure how much luck you'll have sourcing a non surface mount version. You are far from the first to struggle with this particular chip.

How exactly are you trying to solder them? How are you breaking the pins on surface mount stuff?

I wish them the best of luck with their endeavors.

Of course you can post that picture to your instagram.... Once.

The really thick stuff they use for shipping batteries and the like.... that is heaven.

I haven't seen one worth buying yet. They all seem to have poorly designed frames and the casters fail shortly therein because they don't like to operate at angles. Anything plastic is just a toy, they tend to flex. Mind, I'm 220 on a good day, 235 on a bad one. I still use cardboard, or if I'm feeling fancy, a $5 walmart fleece blanket.

I agree. This is a datasheet. Provides information on the chip and some theory of operation and how it should be wired in a circuit. https://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/MAX9924-MAX9927.pdf

So what about installing it is throwing you off? Physically making connections? What goes where? How to build a board? Have you looked at the datasheet for it?

I haven't thought about loading pictures in ages, waiting on actual line by line was always interesting. I miss my sisters lab, always a very happy dog. Good looking pup though.

What specifically do you need to know about wiring? Why specifically the 9924? I haven't worked with that chip in particular, but I could certainly provide some insight. Using it for turbo rpm? Had one on my 12V for a while. Started to build a controller, life got in way. Getting back to it eventually. PLC's and radio are a bit of a family tradition

Actually isn't really all that hard, if you can type numbers in boxes and add a few sensors, you can do a lot. The hard work has already been done by others and posted in various places. Starting from a fully mechanical no extra sensor 12V is going to be a bit of a time sink. I consider it a hobby as my truck is a ....... forth? vehicle and is only used for trailers or farm. A little down time isn't going do anything more than a minor annoyance for me. Still, if you were to start tinkering, it wouldn't be hard to get everything set up and tested/working on the bench and install everything in a weekend. It is a fun turbo. The problem with a stand alone controller on a 12V, or at least 1st gens and manual 12V 2nd gens is that there are literally no sensors that one would typically use to control such a thing, primarily; boost pressure and throttle position. Rpm may be able to be pulled from a 2nd gen computer, unsure on a 1st gen. In any case, none of those sensors are particularly hard to add in or source. You won't necessarily need all of those, but a throttle position is required for any level of autonomy (other than it trying to maximize boost constantly), boost would be a close second or equal, and RPM is going to make it more friendly but is not required. The turbo has vane position and shaft speed built in. Once you are in the ballpark with the sensor/s added, the rest is just some basic wiring and plugging in numbers. How much time is it worth to you?

That link does say specifically that a normal cloth mask is about 10% efficient. Better than nothing.

@AH64ID Not to hijack, but I have heard that the BB stuff is rather short lived compared to the 200k+ you get from a journal, as well as the difference at pressure, both oil and boost, was negligible. Care to provide a bit of personal experience?

Friend inherited his grandfathers truck, an 01 k1500. Trans goes out, shop replaces and they cut the harness and did a terrible job rebuilding. Engine now runs terrible, trans never worked right, (I think the nicked some of the seals on reassm or left parts out, or both) it slipped reverse horrible, would only go into gear if manually shifting 1-2-D-OD. Got screwed 6 ways from Sunday. $3000 down the drain.

Speaking of Ford's. Last night a friend and I are in a rather spirited race to the bottom of a local curvy, narrow, steep mountain road. He is in his 2017 Ford Fusion, I'm in my prius. I would pull away on the straights, I would be on him in every corner.... until one corner that tightens drastically where he went into the ditch with minimal damage. I couldn't breath I was laughing so hard, checked on him, then proceeded to laugh for the next 2 miles down the mountain. He was always so cocky about his car and driving abilities, until now. He said his tires wern't warm because cold weather which is why he slid off the road. We had basically been having a spirited competition of him trying to outrun me (racing) for the last 5 miles so the tires and brakes were plenty warm. I'm just glad I was behind him lest he plow into me because he misjudged something. I hate the new ford truck headlights... the quad beams. They are always blindingly high on low beams, even when I'm in a truck. Almost as a rule, if there is someone in my vicinity driving like a complete idiot in traffic, its a Ford. Usually a Ford SUV.

Or a zip tie, if this is something that is to be used for extended periods.

Kinda funny, my Chevy has seperate MAX and A/C buttons. MAX lights up an icon that says RECIRC. Pressing one does not activate the other. Not sure why Chrysler and later Daimler thought that it would be better not to have a seperate button.

I never did understand the absolutely irrational hatred for masks. They aren't stopping you from talking, I still hear you fine. Working on the dining car I wear one about 6 hours at a time, it sucks, but so far nobody has been jumping to pay for me to miss 2 weeks of work or any medical bills or supplies that may be needed. I consider it cheap insurance. I don't like them, I'll still wear one when actually around people though. I get a kick out of people wearing them while in the car. Father has had bypass surgery multiple times and used to have a resting blood pressure in the 210 160 range. Carries nitro glycerine at all times and has to take half dozen pills morning and night. Whether he believes it is a big deal or not, he wants absolutely nothing to do with it. He doesn't want to chance his life for a <$1 mask or a "maybe". Old saying comes to mind, an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure.

As an addendum, fathers Prius Prime has a 8.8kwh battery. It provides about 25-30 miles (35 in my experience) of full electric before the engine comes on. It costs less than a dollar for a full charge hooked up over night. It's about 10c per kWh here. It will really recharge in a little over 4-5 hours on a 120v outlet, or ~1.8kWh*5=9kWh... 9*$0.108= $0.97 for a full charge. I also once took it on a road trip in the mountains, specifically hwy 111 in Tennessee. Changed about 1500 feet in elevation 6 times. Up-down-up... destination, down-up-down...return. Round trip was about 120 miles. I spent about $3. Lots of rolling hills inbetween. I used nearly all of the battery getting to and about 1/4 up the first mountain (Signal Mountain) where the engine started, recharged about 1/4 of the battery going down the other side with the engine off, Made it about 1/4 the way up the next hill before the engine came on again and then about 8 miles to my destination driving along the brow. That was nearly all at 70+mph. Burned about $0.75 in fuel getting there, about $1.25 on the way back. My older prius still has the factory brakes at 299570 miles. They have about half their life left. Regen braking is amazing. When when the battery is full, It starts spinning the engine with no fuel all the way to redline(if need be) to for engine braking. The battery in mine is a NiMh and is original to the car. In order to prolong the life of the battery, the charging circuitry will not let the battery fall below ~22%(engine runs to charge) SOC or above 78.2% (regen cuts off) normally keeping it between 25-68%. I could not tell you how much the battery has lost in cycles, but I will say that the car takes full advantage of micro cycling to make sure the battery will age out before cycling out. Quoted full electric range on my car is 1.2 miles, I can still get about 1 mile from a dead stop accelerating to and holding 30 on flat ground. Disclaimer, I am a rather spirited driver who has found that the Prius will in fact do a decent burnout. I tend to never be passed and consistently either keep up with traffic (15-20 over the limit) and have been known to pass at 85+. I went down the indian nation turnpike in Oklahoma and set cruise on 90. I still averaged 31mpg over the time I was on the turnpike. From what I have seens, most Prius drivers are not exactly quick. It ain't no Cummins, and won't win many races, but it is very cheap and fairly comfortable.

No? In theory, no air there is moving. In practice, it will likely just blow out into the cab from there resulting in less from the vents. New blower and new motor. Factory motor with different blower. Added holes so non factory blower would work. The Heater core was replaced previously.