That Guy

Man, I'm only at 8. Sounds like I need to pick up the pace.

Used to sell Deka. Good stuff. The do everything in house in some rural town in the north east. Mix the old electrolyte in with feed for cows apparently. The purify the lead more than most others. They seem to hold up fairly well. Side note, when I went to get the parts truck, apparently I had left the battery in it from when I parked it originally. Of course it was dead. Spent 2 days charging it and now it is in my tractor. It has a 02/14 date sticker. It was one I got out of a junked car when I worked at Tank Town and is really about half the size it should be. It is an Everstart. Frankly, I'm shocked it came back after spending nearly 2 years discharged. Most batteries I've come across wouldn't have survived that.

Neighbor has a full on 8.5kw gen/welder on a trailer, it got flooded in 2016 and the cable rusted up inside. I considered buying him a new cable, but the ace is slower and more controllable for someone like me who is self taught with maybe 10 hours of welding experience total. Neighbor hard core prefers stick welding and just never replaced it because he hardly ever used mig. Hadn't considered renting a mig, didn't realize that you could, but thinking about it now it would seem weird for there not to be welder rentals. I still have to pull the driver fender back off and weld the inner mount and the cab corner back in. They both got mangled in a blowout years before I got the truck. Already did the passenger side cab corner, though I really should check it again considering it was the first thing I did.... and with an old stick welder no less.

I decided to try and weld the doors. It didn't go so well. I managed to gas weld the drivers door to at least being functional, I ended up cutting out the latch section on the passenger door. What happens when you douse the door with water after welding and then walk away for 5 minutes. I attempted to save the original metal, gave up. Cracks went too far, and I had tried to use a stick welder on its lowest setting. Ended up using oxy/ace and got after I went and got another acetylene tank and a 00 size welding tip for it. Not the best weld in the world, certainly not the prettiest, but the door shuts and latched flawlessly. Like a new car. And it's my first time ever welding with gas. It was a 2 hour battle with tacking, checking alignment, cutting tacks, tacking, checking alignment again... Then warpage because the door metal is something like 18-20 ga. Drivers door looks terrible by comparison. Also, the window track had broken free from its bracket and pulled through the door.

Out of curiosity, the light isn't physically loose is it? The little metal clips that hold to the adjusting screws can occasionally pop off and being HIDs, that spectrum line on the cutoff might be hitting him. Barring that, as previously said, wiring or something sounds suspect. I had a little water get in my ballasts from condensate, but I think morimoto ballasts are potted in resin completely.

I'm not sure if common is the right word.... Inevitable? Potential? Incipient? It will likely eventually happen to all units if they were put into service for 500k. It's not a NV4500 issue, it can happen to all ball detents given enough cycles. $2.63 for regular??? bought diesel the other day for $1.97 and regular for $1.70.

The purple stuff is my preferred style. The sodium hydroxide in it dissolves the lipids in skin, makes it feel slick like bleach. But it does clean grease and oil up very well, particularly when warm. I like to use a spray bottle that has a foam setting, seems to stick to vertical surfaces better. Old age? I really have no idea how that works, but Mikes description seems accurate.

The second one was suppose to happen tonight, It was canceled. The third on is supposedly coming up in a few days, and is uncertain. Having watched most of the first one I really wonder what has happened, as in my previous topic. That was tragic, for both sides. I decided to watch the 1960 debate between Nixon and Kennedy and they only disagreed on how to achieve the end goal. They both agreed with the direction of the country and were both strongly for the US. They were both presidents of the people, even though they were in opposing parties. I would have a hard time deciding who to vote for based off that first debate. Neither spoke out of turn, and while they did attack the others position and policies, they didn't result to what basically amounted to a middle school food fight. The VP debate was far more civil, though it was still two wildly different ideas about where this country should be heading. Scary times we are in. I really truly see why some people are stockpiling ammunition and firearms.

In my experience, most women who choose to work in a craft/trade/physical jobs are exemplary employees, among the best. My mother says it partially has to do with having to prove that they can handle the work. Of the 20 or so I know of, there is only one I wouldn't hire.

I would do it, and plan to on both mine. I strongly suspect that it would improve the ride on washboard/railroad tracks/roads where expansive soil is causing buckling in the pavement, at least when power is being applied. Even more so when a heavy trailer is involved. I put new shocks on my 2012 and it would still buck like crazy under load with axle wrap when pulling. As far as the clutch grabbing.... My IH 886 tractor weights ~13k. It obviously has a solid frame with no suspension at all. It bucks occasionally (mildy) when releasing the clutch with no load. Take that for what it's worth, but I suspect track bars won't eliminate the bucking entirely. Shouldn't have any issues with towing. I have been told the proper way to install them is to get as close to the next pivot (ujoint) on the driveshaft, like the trans/xfer tail housing or the carrier bearing. That is supposed to prevent more extreme angles of the U joint in the yoke as the suspension travels. Trigonometry and all that fun stuff.

A few drops of the uv leak detect die in the oil will tell you all kinds of things. It's the only way we found leaks on the the equipment once they get all grimy with a half inch layer of sludge built up everywhere because hourly construction employees. I once had PS hoses leak along the entire length of the hose through at least 30 or more pinholes. I'm still not done degreasing the entire underside of the truck.

280 jives with what I remember, but my FSM's are 600 miles away currently.

And the transmission cooler. a lot of chrysler vehicles came with PS coolers. Sees odd to me that trucks and stuff with higher load didnt(same with GM).

The scary part... Im almost certain that he does indeed have a 24v with 56k on it. He had pictures and the whole fuss with his family that was 2 hours away was, they had to drop his truck off at the local dodge dealership and then come get his chevy with his mothers truck and his inlaw's bosses trailer. It took them forever because they got it stuck on the trailer as it fell through one of the planks on the pass side by the dove tail so they yanked it off at the dealership. I overheard all of this over his phone because it was so loud. Sure enough, they get here and there is a dirt encrusted tire track leading right into the missing board on the pass side of the trailer. 3 of them jump out and start getting everything ready and my neighbor pushes his truck up on the trailer with a tractor with a hay bale on the front. We hung out (we pulled him off the road into my driveway and got him up on ramps) and had a beer or two. Beyond what I picked up over his phone conversations and his stories, he is a character, with really bad luck with vehicles. And he thinks with his dipstick a lot, judging by his NSFW girl chasing stories. I forgot to mention... He also has a 6.7 Ford that is broken down as well. Something about the injection pump.

But that's only 11 better than the VP44 when even the most casual of observers can tell that the VP66 is both 11 better than the VP55 and 22 better than the VP44.

So, across the road from me and maybe 300 feet back, they are installing a new natural gas pipe line. It's 24" and ~1200 psi. BIG. Anyway, that means welders and trucks. With Delta just having coming through, it has taken over 3 days for the pasture to return to its normal not swamp state. I was looking out of my garage when I hear a V8 through flowmasters revving up, I turn to see a 2000ish Chevy z71 pull out on the road and then what sounds like a he caught the gate and is dragging it. He stops after about 40 feet. Goes into reverse, stops goes forward and then comes screeching to a halt. Then he floors it and I hear what sounds like a drawer of silverware being fed into a V8 powered wood chipper. Shortly thereafter... I hear a Ford whistling through a straight pipes in time to see him gun it and disappear into a huge splash of brown water.... and then silence. (I suspect that he sucked water into the intake) He immediately fires it back up and dies about 3 seconds later. Repeats this twice, then it stays running long enough for him to make about another 20 feet, and dies. At this point, the Chevy is on the road with flashers on and the Ford is maybe 50 feet away. The Chevy guy yells to the other guy, "I broke it". They all pop the hood on the Ford and start looking around, still in the field but on solid dirt now, and find nothing visually wrong. Slam hood, fire it up, pull up another 20 feet... dies. At least the front tires are on the road now. Fires up again, sounds terrible, makes it up to road and back up to other truck where it dies again. That leads to this scene in front of my house. They had come from the red gate to their right. They give Chevy some tools, give some parting words, and proceed to die three more times in front of my house and then it stays running long enough to get out of my sight, still sounding like it's running on 6 of the 8 cylinders. Now, Chevy sits here for probably 20 more minutes, they start hitting underneath it with a hammer. The neighbor and I go see what's up at this point. The rear differential is toast. The drive shaft spins free within it. The front drive shaft had been removed previously and they were now trying to sledge hammer it back into its mud caked receptacle (to no avail I'll add) in order to be able to drive back to West Monroe 2 hours away on the front axle power only. The front driveshaft had been removed because it would come loose after about 100 feet and start clunking. I should also say, the Chevy had only 126,000 on it. He gives up and we start taking, his step father is coming to get him at this point, so we sit and talk for a bit. Now for why this is in this forum... Chevy guy's main truck and welding rig is a 2000 Ram 3500 with a 24 valve and an auto. It had just broken down (why he was driving the Chevy) because the security system went haywire and would go off when opening doors and the truck wouldn't start. It has 56,000 miles. He claims to be on his 3rd transmission. He also has a Smarty on 5. He had a quadzilla that apparently caught fine from shorting out internally somehow and nearly burned his truck to the ground. "I heard some mexicans shouting and then one of them runs into the ditch were I was to tell me that my truck was on fire". So to you folks here, have yall ever heard of a Quad catching fire or blowing through 2 transmissions in 56,000 miles? There seems to be a common denominator here, and guy seems to be VERY HARD on vehicles.

How does temp affect it? Both ambient and first start versus up to temp. I have a Borgeson steering box that is the larger than the original, and by their own claim, a newer design. It is a quick ratio, just over 3 turns lock to lock. Been in there for almost 50k with no noticeable wear on 33's, and on bad ball joints

As a literal band aid fix, hose it off with brake clean then run a bead of rtv. That's what I had to do to my tappet cover that is apparently bent or something, seeing as my brand new gasket leaks. But, yes, 4 bolts in the case with several that hold the cover on acting to hold the case as well. If you pull the front off, may as well check the seals of the little timing pin that pops into the back of the cam. As much as I love the factory gaskets, I also ran thin layer of RTV on the new gaskets, little piece of mind. Can use the anaerobic sealant too if the rtv layer is too think for your taste. It really isn't that much additional effort to pull the cam as well, even if it is just enough to get the bolts snugged. The dowel trick to hold the tappets works well.

The rear axle I believe has a sensor on it. They can go bad or have a wonky connection, it can trigger the light. If the ABS light burns out, the brake light stays on. The proportioning valve may be triggering the light as well. Those may be 12v exclusive issues, except the rear axle sensor.

I've been trying to get the interior in order. My parts truck apparently has remote entry, and the wiring harness in the door is different apparently. The locks would not work at all. I stuffed some carpet padding in the seat. It looks terrible, but it actually sits level which is nice. I also put a piece of carpet between the foam and the springs. This is apparently a factory splice. It appears to be crimped and ultrasonically welded or something. It does not come apart easy and is wrapped in old school friction tape. Very very sticky friction tape that requires alcohol to get off your fingers. Driver side. On the driver side, the wires are the same. Pass side is different. You can do the entire thing with the harness still in the door if you have to. The original non remote entry lock wiring, driver side Remote entry wiring, driver side Non Remote, driver side Remote, driver side For the driver side, I made a splice at the window switch, since it connects to that wire anyway at the factory junction. Non remote, passenger side. Notice, the wires are in a different order. It will cause a short if you leave them. Non remote: Remote: 1. Orange w/ black 1. Orange w/ pink 2. Orange w/ purple 2. None 3. Red 3. Red 4. Pink w/ black 4. Pink w/ purple 5. Pick w/ purple 5. None Remote, pass side. On the passenger side, you have to connect to the speaker side of the harness as that's the only place to connect. I twisted the wires and twisted a few times around the main harness so it would stay together and then zip tied it. I tinned all the connections, and then went back with modern rubber friction tape. You could use butt splices', but I still have all the fancy stuff. Got the door panels back in. I apparently no longer have an intact drivers door pull for a 12 valve. The 24 valve has a different shaped and smaller one with a narrower screw pattern. I have a pass side pull, it's just not in. I have a big shop fan blowing in because the ac condensate drain wasn't attached properly so it put all the water in the carpet. Almost half a gallon, it was pouring out of the screw holes in the floor. I pulled the passenger seat... again, and am using a spare door panel to direct air under the carpet so it will dry in this 89% post hurricane humidity.

Tremec TKO 500 is a good choice unless you are have plans for huge power. Moderately priced as far as transmissions go as well.

I must have missed the drag racing golden age. Unless it was a huge event like Drag Week, I have never seen stands with that many people in them. Back in Chattanooga, the dragstrip is about 5 miles away as the crow flies. I can hear them clearly enough to know if they had a good ET or something broke. In other news, the state birds have been trying to carry me off lately. Polished up the fog lights off the doner truck, the ones in the spare bumper, which you see here, have cracked lenses and are junk. Finally looking like a proper truck again. I think I like the body color sport grill more than the chrome. The doner are both in need of welding from years of sagging hinges. Unfortunately all too common in these. Still rather sparse inside, got to figure out which seats I'm going to use.

The G56 was built with the dual mass flywheel and very conservative lugging power in mind. Be careful if you pull from 1500 rpm up. They do not tolerate lugging and chatter more than their cast iron counter parts when lugged. The stock tune on the 6.7 w/ the G56 has very little power before 1700 rpm. The autos feel like rockets by comparison. Need a need a different crossmember, or to notch the stock one heavily. I was wanting a G56 in my 12v once I experienced one in the 2009 C&C we had. Still considering it, but it isn't going to happen till the 4500 breaks first.

How has your clutch survived a leaky rear main?

More of a PSA than anything.... There is a local company near me called Lott Oil. I'm sure a lot of towns have little oil companies like it, open to the public distributors that is. I bought a 5 Gal bucket of T3/4 Rotella for about $40. The local parts store is like $65 They have all the other fluids you may want as well. When I changed the fluid in my IH 886 (25 Gal of HyTran), it was about $150 cheaper there than anywhere else in town. So, if you have one, local oil companies can have very good deals.