That Guy

It's basically free compared to gas and diesel, and also the disproportionately high fuel tax 4 wheelers pay in relation to class 8 (a form of socialist subsidy to transport companies). 4 wheelers pay the same tax per gallon and yet the trucks cause exponentially more wear on the road. The numbers depends on exactly who you ask. Roughly speaking, class 8 causes >90% of damage to the roads. What's not up for dispute is that they pay for about 35% of the wear via taxes to keep the roads maintained. The cars like the Chevy Volt or Toyota Prius Prime that have enormous batteries for plug in charging while having a gas engine for range extension bring the equation equal to the amount of damage the car does to the road. The issues of road taxing is something is something that has yet to be addressed in most places and most places that have are a bit draconian. On the generation standpoint, do not underestimate the economies of scale. Discharge of the car is near 100% efficient. Regenerative braking is about 80% depending on how intense the application and who you ask. The grid to your doors is between 87 and 97.8% efficient. The actual generation (heat generated to Watts at the output) is in the 30-70% (average of fuel consuming plants in the US is 45%) range while hydro and wind/solar only cost maintenance on the facility and initial cost. Plugging in at home costs about 30 cents on the dollar per distance traveled than to fill with petroleum, assuming about $2 a gallon gas that has been seen by many lately. Besides that, electrical utilities are regulated monopolies and most are for profit. Most make around 10%. Oil companies are not and are not above charging a premium for their product. Since energy companies can negotiate for lower fuel prices, whether it be bunker/natural gas/coal/other, they can get their price per unit cheaper than John Q. Using a Tesla charger is basically highway robbery compared to how much it cost them for the power. To the point, it is cheaper to drive on large centrally generated electricity than on micro local generation. The only things to be addressed are the battery capacity and the charging. They are the same problem since charge rate is a function of capacity. My personal opinion... The Musk truck is a tonka toy. It will be great for 90% of current truck owners who "need" a truck. The other 10% will need something actually built like a truck and not a ridgeline/avalanche/camino/sportrac. Places like Cracker Barrel that cater almost exclusively to travelers are installing charging stations. I would be willing to buy a 350-400 mile range vehicle for as rarely as I drive 600+ miles in a sitting if it could charge to 80-90% in the hour or so I would be eating.

The intercooler will hold several gallons before it starts to get sucked into the intake. Neighbor has a tractor that he claimed was smoking horribly. It was leaking from the compressor seal and the turbo was seized... ran like that for almost 6 months. Never had issues with it running away or not wanting to stop. Burned about 2 quarts per hour. Non intercooled turbo literally blows vertically straight down into the intake plenum.

That is interesting. What is the fan off of? Still using the 2000 dodge motor it looks like. Figure out a proper filter system and you may have the best system to ever grace a 2nd gen Dodge truck. I'll give this a go on mine as well. Side note, the fan is capable of a higher pressure before compressor stall due to its blade design, the stock one is more geared to high flow with moderate pressure.

I just had a thought, if the road draft tube was clogged/blocked for some reason, it will either blow out the tappet gasket or blow out the turbo seal.... I've seen both. That said, this seems far more like a crib death than blocked vent considering it was fine before. Still worth a peak under to see if the almost iconic constant draft/haze from the tube is unobstructed. Still sucks to get a DOA turbo, and warranties almost never cover other consumables or downtime.

Both my neighbor and his son. Neighbor had a 96 vortec before buying a Cummins, his son bought a 06 SRT 10 1500 and it has spent way more time in the shop than actually in the driveway. He also bought a Cummins. Me personally, my old 94 throttle body infection c1500 doesn't actually have enough power to hurt itself, but it does drink the fuel to the tune of 14 mpg. Cummins can touch mid 20's.

Best rust protection I have found thus far has been a timing case leak. Lookin good. Always nice to step back and look at a job you've done and marvel at it.

What I was wondering, or maybe the entire rear window somehow.

I am traditionally fond of more control vs less, why I like the old mechanical controls like my friends 54 Olds. Prius allows you to recirc or fresh air any of the vent settings and a has dedicated a/c button. Also has a filter button where it does a full recirc through the filter for a few minutes for smells. I never smell skunks or paper mill in that car. Neat system.

According to my neighbor (who originally bought the truck new and installed the kit) it gave it a decent bit more power. Being a 12'er, no electronic turner to go bad. It came with what is roughly a no 5 or 6 plate/banks cut. Had a 4in SS cat back banks exhaust as well. The wastegate actuator may have come out of adjustment or gotten weak, but I only ever saw about 22-24psi before I blocked it. Neighbor said he was satisfied as he was hauling 17 rolls of hay on a 35ft trailer and wanted to see what it would do. He got up to 95 and let off as he didnt want to see what a blowout would do. He also grossed 32k lb on a separate occasion with the same 2500 truck. Claims it had plenty of umph.

My $0.02, I had the VE, it is definitely a nice upgrade considering I traded ~$200 of ammunition for it. I had it mechanically controlled via a choke cable which was adequate, but not optimal. I didn't want to fool with trying to make the electronics work. A 341 or 351W/CW seems worth it for budget power bump. I'll be putting my VE back on once I get it rebuilt, running the old HX35 currently. Definitely doesn't clean up the smoke as much or spool the same. Miss the exhaust brake as well. I have an ancient Banks git kit on mine that was there when I got the truck so I can't say anything about power difference. It did come with the turbine housing/wastegate. It seemed to open at ~22psi when it was connected and the fuel plate is slightly more aggressive than stock. Also came with Banks Dynafact branded gauges of which, the boost still works, but the pod fell one day and broke the pyro internally. The pyro worked constantly (truck on or off) and was working till it fell. Pyro was my favorite part, no fancy amplifier box or stepper motors or electronics, basically just a simple volt meter to read resistance across the thermocouple using cutting edge technology circa 1820.

On the 12v's you have 4 fan speeds with the a/c comp and 4 without. The vent controls are agnostic with respect to the the fan controls. So you would simply set it to non a/c recirc. I'm unsure on the 24v's as they don't have a dedicated a/c button or quadrant of control I know of. Since It doesn't have that I assume the computer does the thinking for the a/c compressor and turns it on when it deems necessary. Maybe set it to max a/c and full heat and see if it cycles the clutch.

In this case, you stop about 3 hours before you leave and watch for signs of fir in the insulation.

Speaking of iron oxide... Been restoring this since I was about 10. 3000lbs of steel replaced. The side sills and floor have been completely replaced. Stainless steel cars do not rust out. The floors fall out from 40 years of roof leaks. Stainless would likely last longer than the truck. There are many rolling around pushing 80 with, relatively, no issues.

I once drove across Iowa and passed a fellow Dodge I thought looked weird. There was a huge rust hole above the rear wheel, as I got closer, I could see the other side of the bed through the hole. Then as I was next to it, the other side was the same so I could see the corn growing in the field next to the interstate THROUGH the basketball sized holes in the bed of the truck. And here I've been burning off all my waste oil....

I threw some cheap china lights on my tractor and the side by side. The quality varies wildly, but they all work more or less and can't beat the price. Just click the arrow under the video that says "share", it will provide the option of a link. Or just copy the web address.

Zinc Chromate primer can really help prevent rust, once the issues are fixed. It is leagues above with Chrysler/Mercedes ever thought of using, or any OEM for that matter. Needle scaler is your friend, if it goes through, the metal was no good. Mask recommended at bare minimum, has hexavalent chromium in it. I like the cab corner repair.

I have tried to find them with no avail, but for class 8 trucks you can find heated headlights. Also in the old round and square sealed beam sizes. https://www.grainger.com/product/52XE96?gclid=CjwKCAiAq8f-BRBtEiwAGr3DgQpnfF9jh-gCRYcPnLYa-djCJikx96RV4euYUIVSLUJ-F_O52rXjzBoCNeAQAvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=CjwKCAiAq8f-BRBtEiwAGr3DgQpnfF9jh-gCRYcPnLYa-djCJikx96RV4euYUIVSLUJ-F_O52rXjzBoCNeAQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!264955915823!!!g!438966557505!&gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231 I have seen the film sold separately, just never in the correct size. If one could find the film, it would be trivial to install on our lights. 3rd gen with the sphere shaped lights maybe not, but the 1st, 2nd, and 4th would be simple.

A centrifugal fan can not work in reverse, for the purpose of A/C anyway. Spin direction can change, flow cannot... in the middle and out perpendicular to the axis of rotation. They have known how centrifugal fans worked since the 1830's and had it perfected since the 1890's. I'm unsure what you are trying to accomplish by putting a fan in that has blades facing the wrong way as well as spinning the wrong direction.

Is your blowing spinning the wrong direction or maybe have the mismatched fan? Have a new core just like that to go in. My factory copper one still seemed perfectly fine so I figured I would stick with it for the time being. Aluminium only transfers about 60% of the heat that copper does but 160 seems perfectly fine, and alu is like 1/3 the cost.

I was digging around in my growing collection of 2nd gen parts looking for the spacers for the coolant hose along the exhaust manifold (found it) and found a mint driver side door grab for a 94-98 that I didn't realize I had. I simply didn't have one there. Last I touched the interior, I replaced the driver side door panel with 99-02 one and the grabs are different. With that, the interior of the truck is finished. It's nice to have so many parts you start forgetting what you have. The heater is now hooked up and works well, but the vent actuator for the defrost/dash vents is bad and means it is stuck on defrost currently and, the cable for the blend door came undone. I'm trying to figure out if it is worth rolling the dash to reattach it or just use a tiny set of vice grips on the end of the shaft by the passengers foot. So far the vice grips work well enough to deter me from touching the dash for the time being. Im hoping the actuator is still good on the parts truck. Looks reachable without touching the dash as well. That is right after the brakes on the list. About 2 weeks ago I finally got around to wiring in the fuel pump and the fog lamps. I honestly haven't the foggiest idea of what I did previously to get the fuel pump keyed to the ignition. Whatever I did ended up a stripped end of the + wire loose laying on the driver fender. It is now working off of the number one fuel pump relay that was unused until now. I originally had the last fog lamps wired in the way the factory had it with a factory switch. Since mine didn't have the harness from the factory so I made a simple wiring harness for it. It was lazily and cheaply done, but the terminations were well done. I elected not to wire it in the factory manner this go around. Instead of using the headlight switch as a power supply, I pulled the power to the relay from the keyed feed wire in the fuse box that feeds the fuel pump. I ran the ground of the relay to a switch in front of the xfer case shifter which is then grounded to the dash frame. Works well, and no chance of leaving them on by accident. The red wires are factory splices, the white, blue, brown and purple are my splices. I used pre tinned aviation wire (the white braided stuff) simply because that was just sitting around. There was an oil leak from the valve covers and thought my seals needed replacing again. They are silicone ones from when I replaced the factory ones years ago, but they seemed fine and perfectly flexible so I reused them. Since the truck isn't even registered currently, I haven't been too worried running around the farm. I decided to put my borescope to use and saw that the gaskets had just been pinched under the covers on the back side of #1 and 6. I took the covers off and reset the gasket. Still looks/feels new. I believe that fixed it but we'll see. Now there is the brake issue and the power steering leaking from some unknown location. Apparently the reverse lights don't work for some reason. I'll have to deal with them once I get back to the farm towards January.

My neighbor who was own/op for about 10 years back in the 70's and 80's. Said it was the quickest way to go broke. By contrast, I almost started driving for a guy who had 6 trucks running RV's back and forth for the Camping World in Chattanooga. He made a decent living at it apparently, had a harder time finding clean drivers he said as his loads apparently required a medical sometimes (>26,001 lbs). Under that I believe you are exempt. I chose to work at Tank Town instead of being a driver, I think I made the right choice in my case. I also didn't want to use my only truck from my grandfather to do hotshot. Can't be too bad if you find a good contract/job board. Since it seem like some side money for you, and you have a truck you aren't attached to, seems like a good deal. Easy to be picky on you loads when it isn't your sole income.

First off, is this a 24V (99-02) or 12V(94-98)? (in no particular order, try easiest first) 24V have electric control of the blend door, 12v have mechanical cable connection. What is engine coolant temps? Does the air flow change direction with the knob? feet/defrost/recirc/dash If doesn't change or only changes on some settings, either vacuum lines or the bladder/s in the actuators have gone bad. Recirc is as important for heat when the temp hits -47* as it is when the a/c is running and its 110*. Should be able to hit 140*+ vent temps. My chevy hits 190 for example. Being in Oil'berta Canada, have you done anything to block some airflow to the radiator for the sub zero months? Even in the American south, I block about 2/3rds of it with no issue and we usually only see 20's as our lows. Otherwise, warms up to 180*, thermostat opens, back down to 140*. If you removed the blower motor, does it spin free with little resistance? It will have a little, but not much. also, do you have all 4 speeds of the fan? The evap core wasn't starting to plug up was it? You say heater core is newish, it shouldn't need flushing unless coolant was garbage. Thermostat stuck open not allowing to come up to temp? Fan is only going to move so much air. Number of fins isn't as important as them all being there. Could be difference between two aftermarket venders or aftermarket vs oem. After all of that, increasing the flow through the heater core isn't going to do much if any of the above are true. Nonetheless, the ID of the nipple is 3/8ths. You could drill it out a bit to maybe 1/2 inch at the most, which in THEORY, means 78% more flow, ASSUMING zero resistance elsewhere along the line, which simply isn't true. The return to the lower radiator hose (likely also 3/8), not even considering the heater core. My blocked evap as an example.

My napa clutch has stood up well to my abuse. 50k on it with more power (300hp?), has surprised me. It didn't start slipping until I like 30k in. Even now, it is perfectly driveable, just stay out of it or when you feel it slip, let off instantly. Not bad for a $100 clutch from 2008 that sat in the garage floor till 2011. I wouldn't hesitate to put the plate back in with if a few mm forward and run the clutch another 50-100k. I'd put another in if I was going to stay at this power level.

I do not believe it is a restrictor, it is wide open from what I recall. I was going to hook up the heater hoses this afternoon, I'll let you know on the sizes.

You didn't immediately fix his truck for free and out of the blue he shows up... and you are the ahole somehow??? Some people are strange. Looks like it could be a good solid truck. Would make a pretty decent hotshot rig as well, I like when things just seem to work out like that.