Andyba20

The Rancher 420 is the best all purpose 4 wheeler ever made. Especially in the woods. Now that power steering and independent rear suspension is available, I don’t think Honda can do anything else to make it better.

Just a follow up on this. I had both hoses replaced. Also, I had been trying to fix what I thought was clutch chatter from my LS rear end, but the crimped/twisted hose was the culprit. Nearly identical symptoms.

Is it possible that I drove mellow for so long that when I added the boost elbow and got enough pressure to open the gate it stuck open or partially open? I’ve tried everything I can think of besides removing the turbo and digging in.

I agree. I don’t need 500hp either…I really don’t need 350hp I don’t think. I’ve never been disappointed with how the truck tows in basically stock form, but if I can get a little more reliable top end power I’m all for it. The main reason for the 7x.010’s is the guys that have spent time researching and testing seem to agree that’s the best injector paired with the quad. I’m still a little concerned with all of the stuff I’ve read about pop pressure lowering after a few thousand miles. I don’t know anything about that stuff but I wish I could get 300K out of a set like I have my oem injectors.

You wanna sell me your turbo and get a new one? Bc mine is coming off today.

No, the Adrenaline and injectors I’ll be ordering this week, fixing another issue at the moment. Currently on stock injectors and the Smarty.

Did your test @IBMobile and still nothing over 6 psi. Looks like I get to remove the turbo.

I’ve got pretty much the exact same truck. Only thing I didn’t really like stock was the fuel economy. Abysmal.

@Me78569 you still finding the will power to keep your 4th gen stock? Gotta be tough.

Yea it seems I’m just barely outside the sweet spot a lot of times and lose speed then drop to 3rd. Not the end of the world, just hoping I could cure it with tuning and maximizing the stock turbo since I’ve never even pushed it past 20 psi. And honestly I have no issue dropping a size in tire, but the ones on it are pretty new.

Not contrary at all. If I’m on a long grade I take it slow, and if I’m towing my horses I always take it slow. But I’m talking about short up and downs where I need a little more top end to crest the next hill without losing momentum and downshifting. So like 30 seconds of pushing it and then coast back down. My brother is an excavator and a lot of his guys have been out sick lately so I’ve been dragging equipment around to help him out. That’s what’s got me thinking about it while I’m getting ready to swap the original injectors out and all that. This truck works, but isn’t abused I promise.

I was hoping you’d chime in @Me78569 good info. The frustration here is everything is 1/2 mile up then 1/2 mile down over and over and over. I can build speed coming down and almost make it up the next one and then have to downshift. Still always gets me there I guess.

Y’all will see me posting a little more than usual over the next few weeks. I have time away from work and need to get some things done on this truck. This is where I’d like to hear opinions: With good tuning and 7x.010’s can I get better top end for towing grades? To be more specific, I’d like to maintain speed (65 mph) on sub 1 mile 6%-8% grades towing 9K without having to downshift. Subjective I know, but can this be accomplished through tuning, injectors, and my hx35w, or do I need more turbo? Off the highway I tow with od locked out, and if it’s really steep in the mountains somewhere I use 2w low. The problem I’m looking to solve is specifically interstate/highway towing. Before Mike asks, 285/70-17

Don’t get in a hurry to buy if you don’t have to. In my experience, low mileage doesn’t necessarily mean it’s been well maintained. Example, my cousin has a 2001 (Cummins) bone stock with 129K miles. Stock as in, original lift pump, trans, ball joints, everything…he rags that farm truck, doesn’t give a crap. I bet he hasn’t changed the oil in 5 years. My 2000 truck is coming up on 300K and I’ve done over $20,000 worth of maintenance/reliability upgrades over the past 8 years. Point is, if you can find a high mileage truck that’s been maintained by someone who loves the truck you’ll be much better off. Another consideration, don’t be scared of a truck with a good upgraded automatic transmission. My 4th Gen has a 6 speed manual. It’s awesome, but honestly I drive my auto 2nd Gen more these days. Rowing gears can get kinda old, especially in Tennessee where the hills mean you’re constantly shifting to the right gear when towing. Towing with an auto, for me, is much more relaxing on long trips.

Thank you, great idea. I’ll give it a try.

Alright still trying to chase this one down. I set my compressor to 25psi, removed the boost hose from the boost elbow, and ran my blow gun into the hose/actuator. The actuator arm did move, but I didn’t hear any air. If the wg was stuck open, or sticking open intermittently, wouldn’t I hear some air moving? Went back and triple checked for leaks, and found a small leak at one of the fuel filter housing bolts, and a small leak at the boost bolt. All is tight now. Everything else is normal, just can’t get more than 8-9psi immediately after the adjustable boost elbow was installed. Can anybody think of what mechanically could have happened from installing the elbow that would result in this sudden issue? I’ll replace/upgrade whatever it needs, I just don’t know where the problem is yet. Only other thing I can think to add is on my first test drive after I installed the elbow, I was seeing 18-19psi like normal, went back and tightened the adjuster screw, then went for another run and that’s when the boost dropped.

I was hoping you’d say a little PB Blaster and a couple taps from a hammer. Here we go.

How did you remedy your stuck wastegate?

I haven’t noticed any higher egt’s (been watching) but it’s definitely a dud right now. Wish these things would happen when it’s warm outside.

Just trying to track down the issue efficiently, if anybody has a good/better/best place to start. Did a boost leak test last week, found a few leaks, tightened some clamps, leaks gone. Threaded in a new boost elbow. Before, with leaks, I was seeing about 18-19psi max. Now I can’t get to 10psi. Set screw is turned all the way in. Bleed orifice does seem to be constantly bleeding air, but I’m not sure if that’s by design or not. It’s the adjustable boost elbow from DAP.

Thanks IB, tempted to go this route. I understand I shouldn’t expect any additional stopping power, but perhaps a firmer better brake feel. I’d be happy with that. Now the question is, are they on back order?

That’s the plan. Just sad that a trained professional could miss something like that when specifically asked to inspect the brakes. Dumb, drugs, or just don’t care.

Well I just had an order/shipping issue with the same vendor and it took 4 phones calls, 2 emails, and 5 weeks. They weren’t proactive at all. Makes me hesitant to order the injectors and tuner I’d planned on ordering next month. And I can already hear the mumbling “it won’t be any better anywhere else”.

I’m gonna go by there tomorrow and point it out…they’ll make up some plausible deniability, I’ll leave, they’ll laugh. Bc they are losers. I feel bad for them. If by some chance they apologize profusely and offer to fix it I will report back and gladly be the loser for a day.

I think these vendors are getting a little too comfortable pushing these shipping issues off on the suppliers/shipping companies. You paid them for a product they sell, they need to make sure it arrives in tact and on time and if it doesn’t then they need to take ownership of a resolution. It’s part of a running a good business. You don’t have visibility into their ordering systems or a direct line/email with their shipping company representatives. They need to own it, with regular follow ups until resolved. Everybody life is a little harder right now, so they gotta double down on integrity and do what’s right instead of making their problem my problem.