jag

That is a totally wrong statement. Gail Banks doesn't make parts for fun. If it didn't show increase in air flow, it would have not been built. Banks has been the only maker of a rear diff cover that works & has been tested in the real world. The guy is wicked smart. I love mine, & has proved itself. It is really noticeable with the Common Rail head I have on my VP

AC was checked & came in as .017. WT was done. Seems to run a little different, smoother & idles a bit on the high side. I will watch like a hawk for anything out of the ordinary.

Well just as Murphy would have it, this ECM went back to no fuel pump, grid heaters & so on. I knew this was not going to last. When I installed it, I got no codes or anything that would signal a new ECM being installed. This one would not even throw a code if something was wrong. I tried by disconnecting the MAP sensor & nothing. All the other ones threw some kind of code when I keyed on the first time. The ECM I ordered from ACS arrived on Friday. Installed it last night. Key on & bang, there was the check engine light. First time I seen it work with the gas cluster. Fuel pump started right away, along with the grids. Key off & plugged in the OBDLink & there were 9 codes, 336, 237, 122, 118, 113, 1698, 1698, 380, & 382. Cleared codes, key off - key on, check for codes & all clear. This will be the last one, because I have threatened it to P pumped next time. ACS.pdf

If you want a little more easy steer, take the plunger inside the pr valve & grind the end that narrows down to where it gets straight with the rest of the plunger, about 1/8". This gives you more flow.

I got the ECM back & installed. Had to wait for it to warm up outside a bit. Does what it's meant to do. One thing I never knew, is that the grid heater solenoids take turns when you first start up. I put led's on my grids (1 on each solenoid) wired independently because I don't have a WTS light. I have a gas cluster. Pretty cool to see actually. Runs extremely strong. How many of you guys can turn your Quad to full & run it? I can't get past 5 without hazing the tires at 70 mph! This is the first time I went to 5. Did this yesterday & got a rude surprise. I engage my OD first & then lock the converter. When I lock up the converter, you better be paying attention if you have your foot into it. Fun truck for sure. Looks like the only way to get the quad to full will be on a dyno.

The ECM that was waiting for parts got repaired & it will be shipped today. Scan0001.pdf

I am not even worried about electrical. Last time I checked was .035. I have a little 1200 watt stereo with a 12" sub & I have never even seen the lights flicker. Trans doesn't hunt & my headlights are on relays, so I get 12 volts to them. So everything is good in that department. I just have had bad luck, not like the person in Idaho who won 500 thou. So yes, the warranty is only good for what it does, nothing else.

Yes sir. I went with Solutions not Specialists.

That's why I went with 3947912. Hopefully I never have this trouble again ACS had no problem doing this & with a lifetime warranty to boot! So when I get the other ECM rebuilt, I will sell it & recoup some losses.

Got the good & bad on the ECM today. Good is it can be rebuilt, bad is, can't get the parts to rebuild it. I have had enough. I ordered a 3947912 for a 2002 & getting programed for a 2000. Thank you ACS. End of story..... Until I get it installed.

What is the torque spec for the ARP bolts?

So true MM. I have looked from ying to yang to find one up, but no luck.. Mark Nixon doesn't have any neither.

Dieselfuture, when I received mine, they did look like bolts. That's because they have the nut threaded to just cover the nut. I was happy when I opened them & seen that they were studs & not bolts. They also thread to the bottom, so there is a lot of stud in the head. Like they say, looks are deceiving.

The prices of his injectors are well in line for what you get. Now CR injectors are pricey. I see nothing wrong with DAP injectors for everyday use. But if your looking for what I have built my engine around, then Infinite is the way to go. I did upgrade to the ARP STUDS (247-7201) instead of bolts. More clamping force. Stock is 27 lbs. & these are 38 lbs. torqued. Not going to pull these out.

The basic grounds were done back in 08 as one of the suggestion from the one & only Harry Piers. We at first thought it was the tone ring that came loose. There were a lot of suggestions flying around. Never thought it could be the ECM. Even tried a different injection pump to cover all bases plus crank sensor, cam sensor. Dodge dealer made a few hundred dollars too, testing everything electrical. Dodge said straight up it was not the ECM. Finally after going broke hunting, I tried the ECM & won the battle. The rest of the W-T grounding & inline breaker was done last year when I had the engine out. AC noise is well in check also. I agree, but try & find one. Grand master MR. B Wagner also suggested that. This is why I went the repair route. No outside issue, just bad luck. There is nothing else wrong, that's why I just kept running it the last couple of years, as I knew it was the ECM. The WOT at startup is what made my backside pucker. I have not been told it can be repaired yet. Just got it to ECM DR. last week.

Well the Ram just ate another ECM. Must be high in protein. The first ECM went with around 3500 miles from new in 2000 when I bought it. The dealer replaced it & never said what happened. The second ECM went wild & through just about every code you could list. I think this was in 2008. Not repairable at the time. The 3rd ECM got replaced with a used one from a 98.5. I got the used ECM & PCM together from a guy in Montana. They would not work in my truck together, So I tried just his ECM & my PCM & the marriage was formed. That work fine up to about 2 years ago. Then the WTS light, fuel pump & grids started doing their thing. Then recently doing the WOT at start up & making me wait for 10 mins. before it got it's head together. So now that one is at the ECM Dr. getting repaired. I hope this is the last time around. Just can't seem to get this new engine broke in at this rate. Better days ahead.....I hope

Me78569 couldn't have said it better. Weston's injectors are the best. Hands down. I have been running his 6x13 for 5 years. I recently sent them in as my truck was down because a rocker arm bolt pulled out of the head. He went through them & made a couple of adjustments & then returned them with all o-rings & coppers for for free. Now that's what I call quality control of something you build & stand behind. They were extremely powerful before he gave them some love, but whatever he did has made a big difference all around. I ran a short 35 mile test to see what kind of mileage per gallon & was floored. 23.8 mpg. This was on flat ground & straight with no hills. Call BS, but you will never know if you don't run them. Infinite Performance says it all in his name. The Quad is dialed in right, that is for sure. Unfortunately my truck is down again. Just ate the 3rd ECM. Working on number four. That's a whole different story.

For starters, 2001 does not have crank sensor. The ECM will be looking for it. Have you changed your crank sensor. You can get the ECM flashed to your truck. Be careful, your playing with fire. Your PCM & ECM are not married.

To close the door behind the glovebox & recirculate the air is the way I have it now. The door behind glovebox is closed. It opens for recirculate & shuts off outside air from coming in. The Caravan fan is the easy way. JAG1, are you going to modify the door, or add a flap & cable or something to control it to open & close. Good luck. All I see is more cold air coming in. You will be on the wrong side of the fan. This is the first I have seen to try & help our heaters. It works exceptionally well for me the way I have it setup.

He is correct^^^^^^ JAG1 If anything it would blow air backwards through them causing low air coming from heater vents only making things worse. Think of the fans working separately. The top half of the fan works as it should & the bottom fan draws air from inside cab compounding the air from the top fan being pushed into the cab. Remember, the cab is always under positive pressure when the fan is on. I do not have more air pressure, just a lot more air to flow, hence making it much warmer. Dieselfuture; Some had the cover, some did not. I think we all know how Dodge works from year to year.

Simple, I changed the fan & bored 4 holes on motor housing. I did not touch original heater in any way, so it performs as prescribed. With the split fan, it recirculates full time because of the holes in fan housing. The top part of the fans does it's thing by bringing fresh air from outside, just like it should, & the bottom fan intakes the cab air via the 4 holes plus preventing the outside fresh air from coming in, with positive pressure going back into the airbox, thus full time recirculate on a smaller scale than MAX air. Look at the bottom of the the fan housing on the Caravan, it's wide open. Same on the Benz.

No, because you are still mixing with the cold air coming in from outside. I poured about a quarter cup of water on the rug, & no fogging. Temp here has also been plus 5 to minus 20. Big temp swing but no fogging.

The fan is off a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan. I had to enlarge the opening for the fan to fit in the box by 1/16". Other than that is just to get the fan sitting right, (up down) on shaft. The other reference I used was a 2000 Mercedes Benz C200 blower fan. They feed a bit different way, but same concept. I like this fan but could not find one local, so the Caravan was easy access from a junkyard for $10.00 & the motor was from RockAuto at $12.00. The full time recirculate really helps a lot in keeping truck warmer. A lot of looking through RockAuto fans before I found the right one.

Well this is what I finished with. 2 stage fan. The top fan is fed by the normal way & the bottom fan is fed by 4 - 7/8'' holes drilled in the base of the fan motor. You can see the bottom fan blades through the holes drilled at the motor base. The flow of air is far more powerful, than I had with the stock motor & blade. Plus is I now have recirculate on any switch setting. I can now drive around with the blower on floor only on low setting. Don't need center vent as it moves so much air it is actually to warm to need it. This is just what I was asking for, more heat, & I got it. Very happy. It's proven to work. Dodge wasn't the only one to use the setup. Mercedes Benz used this setup also.

Should have listened when MoparMan stated the the layout of the box is difference. I can't believe I talked myself into this. With the motor in reverse rotation plus the fins cupped the correct way for rotation, the air would have nowhere to escape. Just didn't see it. This is how we learn not to try & be an engineer. Cancelled the 2006 fan & ordered a new blower motor for my 2000. Thanks Mopar Man.