Texas CTD

New ball joints 10K miles ago, along with the pitman arm. I think it's gonna need another arm soon, and the inner tie rods have slack. New crank position sensor, oil pressure sensor, and it needs an APPS. And of course the fuel system. I was hoping it would go at least 100K without an issue. (except the lift pump of course)

Rolled over 85,000 today...

Skellyman - I find your MPG numbers VERY hard to believe. Were those numbers based off of a whole tank of fuel, or a quick trip up the highway? (down hill with a tail wind) The best I've ever seen a stock truck do is about 21-22 MPG. Question: How does oil weight affect fuel mileage?

Especially if the website offers free shipping!

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/7198-whats-best-for-our-53s/

From what I've read over the past few years, lots of people have tried lock-n-stitch, and it's a temporary fix, and isn't worth the cost to have it done...

Not sure about the dry line, but I'm with MoparTech, test with a mechanical gauge.

His signature says he has an Edge Juice, so I'd guess it's a CS or CTS monitor. If it is, I'd be leaning towards a bad sending unit for the fuel pressure gauge instead of a bad lift pump? Does this happen when the fuel tank is full? FASS pumps are probably the best on the market, and if/when they do have a problem, FASS has great customer service and they'll take good care of you.

TM is only on auto trans though.

80 degrees and blue sky here....

Now now, be nice... Better than wanting to roll coal...

What you said below.... I'd go with "60's" or "75's".

A quality injector goes a long way. You could run a 7x.010 injector and still see a mileage increase. If you were looking for good power without droping below stock MPG, that's what I'd go with. If you're just wanting better MPG, I'd go a little bigger than RV275. Check out DAP, DFI, or CPP for the best injectors.

Straight pipe, but other than that, there's nothing you can do to get more whistle. Straight piped 6.0's have some serious whistle!

'06 7.3L......

Here's some purty good instructions: http://www.dieselmanor.com/diy/CMS-G2gauges/CMS-gen2gaugeinstall.asp And I've heard of too many people breaking their drill bits off in the manifold, and if that happens with the truck running, you're gonna have a long day. I used grease on the drill bit, and placed magnets on the manifold around where I was drilling, and then when I was done drilling and tapping, I stuck a magnet down in the hole to pick up any shavings, and I used a shop vac and sucked them out of the hole. I wasn't taking any chances...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/forum/142-high-idle-kit/

If he takes their advice... I hope he has a video camera, cuz I wanna see it.

It depends on who you ask. Honestly, just to stay comfortable, I would keep it below 20 PSI. But the main thing is to not drop below 14 PSI. There's no evidence to back that up.

Image #28. I used that for a ground on my pyro. http://www.dieselmanor.com/diy/CMS-G2gauges/CMS-gen2gaugeinstall.asp

12 valves had cats, 24 valves didn't. That's what I've heard anyway. My friend's '96 had one, but he cut it off.

Holy core charge!!!!!!!!!!

The evidence is everywhere...... Evidence for a young earth that had a creator.

It's already been stated, but I didn't bleed my line either. BAM, fuel pressure.

Not sure. I think it's a little lighter than Ranch Hand full replacements. I could almost pick it up by myself, but not quite. (I picked up the rear replacement... That was a stupid idea, but I got it on )