diesel4life

They make lense inserts for the repirators, alot of guys at work have them. Once a year we have to fully don a level A acid suit complete with a 60 minute scba and complete a timed scenario. Could be anything from installing a c kit on a rail car to installing a band aid on a ruptured pipe or whatever they dream up for us. Its always done in the middle of a fog screen to cut down visibility to simulate a real life scenario. If we dont pass in the alloted time were not cleared to go back to work.

My SG hasn't been right since my injector swap either. I was hoping it would relearn itself over time but after a few thousand miles no change. My next fill up I'm going to do the calibration like you do when it's new.

Will your truck run at all? IF it does you may be better off degreasing your engine and then wash it down. That way its good and clean and will make it easier to spot where the leak is coming from, even if you can only idle it you should still see where its weeping from. Even if it doesn't run if its that nasty I would still degrease it, makes it much nicer to work on. And like Mike says if you have a cracked cover from a KDP issue or some other issue or say you maybe have a gasket blown you may be able to spot it once everything is cleaned up.

That is the general consensus here, but I respectfully disagree. You may get away with it in this instance because of the low pressure but as a rule of thumb when pipe fitting it is a cardinal sin putting any kind of pipe together dry, regardless of the material. As you stated Brass is soft so it does seal itself easier than carbon steel or stainless, but it still can gall. The whole purpose of pipe dope is not to dry and make a seal but a lubrication for the threads to allow proper sink without galling or stripping the threads. I'm sure you know that, just putting it out for some that may not.

I had this talk with my trans guy a while ago, and he said the only way to achieve 2nd gear lock up was to modify the valve body. He also advised against it in my case because I don't have billet shafts. According to him 2nd gear lock up is hard on a trans without the proper hard parts

DRipley it looks to me like the threads in the red circle are pipe threads, either 1/8" or 1/4" it is hard to tell by the picture.

It sounds like your definitely having other issues with the gauge not reading, but here's my reasoning or thoughts on the placement of the sender. The further from the trans the sender is located, the longer it will take for the gauge to react to a high temp. If the sender is on the first line coming out of the trans the gauge will read much quicker and you will see any potential issues before its too late. Also I seem to remember there being a 20 or 30 degree discrepency with those type of senders that clamp on the line. So if the gauge is reading 140 the actual temp in the trans will be closer to 160 to 170. That was per the specs in Geno's catalog when I was looking at gauges a while ago, so I don't know if it was just the set I was looking at or if that holds true for all senders of that type

I gotcha now. Do you have any anti seize? It works great as a thread lubricant. Teflon tape is good also, but you could get a chunk of tape in the line and into your fuel system. The problem lies when you put dry threads together, there is friction created when tightening them down and you don't always get them torqued down as tight as they should be. I like to take just a dab of anti seize around the first thread or 2 (I'm talking small amounts, otherwise you end up with a mess) and try tightening it down again. If you can use a back up wrench when tightening that also helps. I know some will say the anti seize is not necessary, but you have to remember when talking about torquing bolts the only way to achieve proper torque is with lubricated threads. If you took the exact same size bolt/nut configuration and put one together dry and the other one together lubed the lubed bolt would actually require less torque to achieve the same tightness as the dry bolt. Thats because the threads on the dry bolt have more friction which creates drag and requires more torque to over come. Pipe threads are more critical than bolts, they rely on the threads to make a seal. Which is where teflon tape and teflon based pipe dope comes into play (lubrication to help bury the threads without galling them) With fittings as small as your working with, niether one of those are very practical which is why I reccomended the anti seize. We run a lot of threaded stainless steel pipe and we use anti seize in place of pipe dope alot, it works great as a lubricant.

The crank sensor is what controls charging, if the pcm does not see the proper signal from it there will be no charge. Does your tach bounce around erratically? That could possibly be an indication of a bad crank sensor also. The low voltage codes are most likely a result of your no charging situation, I'm sure your aware of that.

I like those retractable pocket hooks Russ, I have not seen those before. I have a small section of 3/8 climbers rope fished through my pockets and have them tied in a double fisherman's knot so I can have something secure to hook my ratchet straps to (ratchet straps do not fit in pockets securely enough to be comfortable with). I think I may try some of those out.

Reminds me of when Sandy came through and dumped a foot of rain on us. I had to haul a car to Cincinnati and the water was right up to the edge of the freeway in many spots. Entire fields were submerged. Ive never seen that much water here before

Hex I might be wrong but Im pretty sure you want that sender on the out put line coming out of the trans and into the heat exhanger on the side of the engine. Someone correct me if I am wrong here, but I believe the flow of fluid comes out of the trans into the heat echanger, and from the heat exchanger into the cooler at the front of the truck and then back to the trans. So if you have your sender mounted on one of the cooler lines at the front of the truck the fluid has already travelled through the exchanger. Its been a long time since I looked at the lines so I am going by memory, and a weak one at that

Is it always so dry this time of year for you? One would think with the recent melting of snow (if you get enough) would keep things damp for at least a month or two. Just talked to mom (in Wyoming) and theyve still got snow on the ground up at the cabin.

Are you using another wrench for a back up to tighten the compression fittings? Are you sure you have the ferrels installed correctly? (the little pieces inside the fitting) Those pieces are what makes the seal, not the threads

yes most vendors but not all. A certain member recently reported calling and speaking to them personally about this very issue, and their response was if it passes the bench test the used computer goes on the reman pump. Maybe he will chime in....Im not saying this is the op's issue, it is doubtful it would fail right out of the box. Hopefully the code will go away with a reset...

What certifications are you getting? Right now my wife is near Cincinnatti in Columbus OH at a seminar (she is an RN case manager). We just bought a new to us Mercury Mountaineer Premier with low mileage. I have owned quite a few Fords over the years and a few Explorers and had good luck with them and came across the Mercury at a great deal and I jumped on it. It seems like a great vehicle so far. Its amazing what these new vehicles have for technology.

Roughly 3/4 of a gallon every compression stroke That would drain my 35 gallon tank in under a minute And to think they can load enough fuel to sail around the world in one of those puppies, woo hoo!

I've always wondered what kind of long term effects holding the duration cycle open longer would have on the VP. Seems like longer duration would make the pump run hotter, but I could very well be wrong. I've always left it on stock setting, while advancing timing to 3 and tm maxed out. Since I installed my rv275's I backed down to sw5 and have been getting pretty good results. I just got back from a 1000 mile round trip from West Virginia with my 22 foot tilt trailer with 4 quads and the bed loaded with tools, tires, spare parts, and camping gear. We ran between 70 and 75 mph the whole way and as of my last fill up I was Averaging 15.4 Mpg. I have not driven the truck since I got home and am going to go fill up to see what my over all is, but I suspect it will be a little higher because when I filled up last we were still in West Virginia and I tend to get better mileage in the flat lands. Over all I was pretty impressed with the mileage considering my speed, the terrain we were driving, and my lightish load (around 6k total). There was 4 of us that went, 1 guy rode with me and my friend drove his 2012 Chevy 2500 gasser with the 6.0. Other than their camping gear and coolers, the truck was empty and he barely cracked 16 mpg hand calculated. We compared numbers everyevery time we stopped for fuel and I was always within 1 to 2 gallons of him . He was not as impressed as I was

Your sure the pins are clean and freely moving?

Where is your sender located? Are you sure you have a good ground?

I have had a 1689 code from low lift pump pressure before, but I don't think 7 Or 8 psi is low enough to set off a code. Have you cleared the code to make sure it isn't a left over code from a previous problem? It seems like a certain member just recently posted about ThoroughBred's vp44's having used ecm's on them, hopefully your not having an issue with the pump. I've heard good things about dealing with ThoroughBred so I'm sure you won't have any issues dealing with them. As far as the pressure your seeing from the Carter pump, that's about as good as your going to see.

Are any of you guys running any filtration other than the stock filter? I'm pondering my next Lift pump purchase, I would also like to add secondary filtration. I'm less than 20k miles into my Raptor pump and already I am having issues at start up with the pump building pressure. Its under warranty still but I just dont trust it. The electric pumps are attractive for the simple fact I can kill 2 birds with one stone (pump and filtration) but I am not exactly sold on the performance of these electric pumps. I can pick up a twin filter set up here locally at a reasonable price which is what I may do if I go the route of a mechanical pump.

Thats great to hear! Its gotta be a good feeling to finally have a truck that does what its sposed ta do

Welcome to the fam . Im right on Pymatuning Lake near Andover (Ashtabula County). Came through Akron yesterday on my way home from West Virginia.

Hmmm, too bad this didnt happen a little sooner when the turbo crisis happened, you could have had some more options to take it up to the next level....: