Eric H.

I consider Kenwood to be a wanna-be name brand. They've always chosen flash over function. I like pioneer sound but I've never had one that got good radio reception (which I still use) even on the high end flip screen I replaced recently. I'm really happy with the Sony sound and reception. Alpine makes nice stuff too. If you want better sound, you need to spend more money in my opinion. These are just the observations I've made over 30 years of installing my own audio/video but I'm sure plenty of people are happy with their results with cheaper products. I think if your looking to improve sound, you need to improve your budget on the head unit. Good speakers are cheap and I really like Pioneer for inexpensive speakers that produce good sound without amplifiers. The reviews for this unit are bad. Even the 5 star ratings come with a bunch of problems and only get the 5 stars due to price. Not to mention this is a double DIN chassis.

I can't speak for any no name brands but the quality difference between other name brand and no name electronics is usually pretty significant. Personally, if I only had under $200 to spend on a head unit, I would get a single DIN name brand without the screen.

I replaced all speakers with inexpensive but decent Pioneer speakers and ran new monster cables with a new deck and the sound is very good. This Sony is great and with good mounting of the head unit the screen doesn't bounce or shake at all. The radio gets the best radio reception I've heard. Added a reverse camera too. It is a 9" screen in a single DIN chassis with no mechanics to go wrong and leaves access to everything, unlike a flip up screen that we had before. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XHYC2YW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ran those tires for years on some 16.5 American Mags and always mounted them myself. I found the best method to seat the beads was this; With the tire loose on the wheel, put the wheel on a bucket or small steel drum to get the tire off the ground and hanging from the wheel. You need a clamp/screw on tire chuck so you can operate the air with one hand and a 16" bicycle tire tube with just enough air in it to make it round and about 2"-3" in diameter depending on the gap between the tire bead and rim. Lube the inner tube well with silicone spray and put it over the wheel and fill the gap between the bead and the wheel with the inner tube. It is a bit difficult to get the tube stem pointed away from the wheel but you will use the stem to pull the tube out when it's pinching between the tire bead and wheel. With the gap filled, slowly air the tire and watch the side wall come up along with the inner tube. As the inner tube gets pinched, you need to keep giving the air at full blast as you pull the tube out. You may need pliers to pull the valve stem hard enough to get it out. It may take a few tries because sometimes as you pull the tube out, you loose enough air for the sidewall to collapse again. I've used the same tube multiple times but occasionally it gets pinched enough that the tube rips a bit but I've always gotten it out eventually due to the silicone spray. Works more consistently than a Cheetah Blaster because the sidewalls can be really stiff and the tires have usually been sitting in the backing sun on their sides with a bunch of tires stacked on top of them. I don't know if this will work with the split rims but it might.

Nice truck! Those Military wheels & tires are a heavy combo and I don't see any weights? You must be running beads inside?

If the master cylinder drained while having the brakes apart, you could just have air in the master cylinder. You may need to bench bleed the MC or if it's level when mounted in the truck, bleed the lines where they attach to the MC and then again at the wheels.

Mine had tons of battery corrosion on the terminals, including in the crimps and down the wire into the insulation. I eliminated the heater so I didn't need to do a drop test but I bet it was bad.

Thank you. The suspension alone was 96 hours of shop time with me and my daughter's BF. We did the whole thing in 4 weekends minus countless hours dialing it in after all was fabbed and assembled. Everything was just a collection of suspension fabrication parts, DOM tubing, off road coil over shocks and the like, pieced together by me. No instructions, nothing cut or pre-welded. The truck was only down for a total of 8 days and remained a daily driver during the week, between each weekends work. It's amazing what we got done each weekend but we also did it in a Commercial Machine & Fab shop, so we had lathes, mills, racks of steel material etc. It was actually double the 96 hours because there was two of us, we don't take breaks much and we were each doing something different at least half of the time. Countless other things have been upgraded as well. Next month is AMP steps, rebuild/re-gear both diffs with 4:10's, new friction material in the back and a 35 spline Detroit TrueTrac up front with Yukon CAD delete axles (both sides). It's my wife's truck and we've pretty much just driven it for the last 13 years. She says she'll never part with it so now I'm renewing/upgrading just about everything for way less than a new truck and it's actually really fun to drive. We have my 4th Gen for towing/hauling.

H&S Mini Max works two ways. It can be a stand alone tuner with built in tunes (without deleting) or it can be a platform to install custom tunes provided by a person that creates custom delete tunes which is what you need to run deleted. The custom tunes are complete tunes and do not piggy back the tunes that come with the H&S. Your H&S should have the stock tune in it on the memory card that you would need to return it to stock. If it is deleted, than any tune that is running was sold to the previous owner and loaded onto the H&S memory card. The only person who can tell you anything about the tunes (HP, Torque) is the person who created them. As for how safe tunes are to use, depends on the tunes and how you drive. Lower level tunes like 1 or 2 are for towing and generally safe but higher level like 3&4 are generally not good for towing but again, this depends on how the tuner set them up as well as how big of a load you are towing. One person might prefer fuel economy and smaller gains while another might be all about lots of HP and blowing smoke. These tunes are not off-the-shelf and can be all over the board. I have seen a custom 12v tune for a 6.7L Cummins that made it rattle like a 12v on purpose. Heck, if you prefer the tuner can make tune 1 hot and tune 4 stockish. It is illegal for anyone to sell a vehicle in the US with a modified or deleted emission control device and the seller (at least in California) can be held liable for any repairs required to make a vehicle compliant, even after the sale. In addition, it is getting more difficult to get tuners that can run deletes and even harder to find the people to sell you custom tunes because the EPA has been cracking down on these modifications.

I found myself reading more so I did subscribe for a year.

Yes, I understand how they work and I appreciate all of the content, however, my question was if he had any recommendations for free hosting. I don't hang out on forums but I do go to them from time to time when I am researching a specific topic like the 1 piece rear driveshaft that I mentioned. A subscription would be appropriate if I planned on being a regular contributor and hanging out giving/getting advise or opinions, but I typically only go to the forums when a google search brings up results from a specific forum and that's how I got here. I go through the introductions because it is proper etiquette and I may have a question some day. This is the truck that's getting 1 piece rear shaft.

That's not free, but thanks.

Thank you. I haven't used an image hosting service in a long time. Do you have any recommendations for a free hosting service? Yes, it has grown a lot. I went to school here from 78-82 and moved back here in 94ish.

New member here from Nor Cal. I'm not new to Dodges or Forums, I just stumbled on this site looking into one piece drive shafts and thought I'd look around a bit. My wife and I have a slightly modified 4th Gen for towing and chores and a heavily modified 24V 2nd Gen for playing but it's also a DD.