Ilikeoldfords

Thanks for the input. Clutch is a Valair single disc, only a couple years old. I just changed the hydro system a few months ago. As for the injectors, I had some "40 hp" injectors put in about 40k miles ago. I thought I was getting true RV275's at the time but later learned that they used factory stock injectors and just put larger tips on them. I am going to get some true RV275's this go around. If my HX35 is still good I will just put a rebuild kit in it. If not, what would a good option be for turbos? Should I look into something other than an HX35? The RV275's are as large as I want to go injector-wise.

Ok Gents. I think I have a rough game plan together. I found a reputable engine builder in Spokane, WA that I am going to use. Reman long block with assembled head for $4,300. Comes with a 12 month-12k mile warranty. I have a few different ways to get the motor to me for no charge, which is cool. I found a very good local shop who will do the swap for me at a great rate of $1,200 for labor. I am going to round up all the pieces and parts (Fluids, hoses, etc) myself, just to make sure I am getting the best deals I can. I have a couple things on my mind though. First off, I am wanting to do this right. While the motor is out I am thinking that I want to spruce some things up. I am going to be getting some new silicon intercooler boots. I would also like to grab a new set of injectors. On the performance side, what about aftermarket cam shafts? Would it be worth looking at a stage one cam? What about turbos? I am currently planning on staying with the stock HX35, as long as it is still in good shape. If not, I am not sure what I am going to do when it comes to turbos. What else should I be thinking about? Clutch is new as of 2 years ago. Injection pump is new as of 30k miles ago. Fuel system is new as of 30k miles ago. I have never really been happy with the injectors in the truck now. I think I am going to get some RV275's. I am going for mileage and reliability. Thanks as always!

I am pretty partial to my beans diesel sump. The whole process including draining the tank didn't take more than 30 minutes by my self to do the install. It also provides a drain plug in case you ever have to drain the tank again. Very awesome product. It even comes with the hole saw to drill that hole in the tank. I don't care what anyone else says, you will not be able to rip it off the tank in the hills either. Not unless that tank goes with it!!! Check out the videos on their page. http://bdpshop.com/beans-diesel-performance-sump.html

That used engine site doesnt look bad at all! Just have to figure out what shipping would be on something like that. Thanks everyone for throwing out tips. I fully understand the risks I am taking when looking online for a purchase like an engine sight unseen. I would definitely be doing as much homework as possible on the seller and triple checking what coverage I have in the case of the seller disappearing when something comes up. It is just to hard to pass up the prices on some of this stuff. They can sell and deliver a product for half the price of having the same work done to my engine locally. Seems like a no brainer. Not to mention, Its not just one place or another. It would seem a lot more suspicious if I only found one seller with this pricing.

Ya maybe it is to good to be true. The problem is the cheapest I have found in Montana just do the machine work and put together my long block is $6500. That doesn't include any of the rest of the assembly time or install time either. I would hate to have to put another engine that already has 200k miles on it back in the truck at this point. Then again, I won't be putting a $10k engine in it either. I'll keep searching...

Just thinking out loud here... What do you guys think about something like this? I have been seeing ads like this all over the place. Obviously I would be making a lot of phone calls and getting every detail I could before ever ordering something. If I could keep it down to that $3000-$5000 range I might be able to make something happen in the next 6 months or so. http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-9-dodge-cummins-engine-remanufactured-longblock-24-valve-installed-anywhere-us-/131711007588?hash=item1eaa967b64:g:LlMAAOSwL7VWksDm&vxp=mtr Or..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-24-Valve-5-9-Cylinder-Block-No-Core-Required-/251486025718?hash=item3a8dbc37f6:g:VL8AAOxy0zhTMZPB&vxp=mtr Or.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-9-CUMMINS-REMANUFACTURED-DIESEL-LONG-BLOCK-ENGINE-/331764307920?hash=item4d3eb197d0:g:ncgAAOSwQPlV-YAm&vxp=mtr

Thank you so much for the offer. Depending on when I get around to grabbing another engine I will definitely check in with you. While on this note, thanks again to everyone who pitched in on helping track down the issue. I am pretty upset that it ended with needing an engine but cant change it now. Just have to pick up and move on from these situations. I am finding some good deals on reman'd long blocks online so it might happen a little sooner than I thought.

I have found places like this all over. Here is another one online. I think when the time comes I will just do something along these lines. At the very least getting running again and sell. With a new engine like that I could easily turn around and sell it for 12-15k which seems to be the going rate around here for a nice second gen. All it takes is a little money!! Maybe when that tax return comes this year

Thanks for all the help on this one. I think at the moment the truck will just be parked. There isnt really any way I can swing the $10k right now. I think if I had the choice I would just have them rebuild mine and be done with it. That way I would know exactly what has been done. But thats just not an option right now. I still have the old caprice so I am not without transportation. We were/are planning on replacing the wifes car this year. With how much I travel for work, I would feel much better with her having a new or at least newer car. That expense will come before the truck gets an engine. After we get that taken care of, and things settle in depending on what kind of financing we get for the new car, then we will look at bringing the truck back to greatness. For the time being, I will just keep my eyes and ears peeled for a good used motor. Thanks again for all the help and assistance in deciding what to do.

I havent towed anything heavy, never hardly get over 2300 rpms, never let it get over 1100 EGT. In fact, I am pretty sure I baby this truck. The guy I had check into it thinks the injector either stuck open or stuck closed. He said he has seen an injector get stuck closed and it actually caused the same problem. Called it a "lean burn" or something like that. I know it looks like a coincidence but I still wonder if it had something to do with timing from running the batteries dead last week. Ran fine before running it dead. New alternator and charged the batteries back up and the knock was there. Very strange if you ask me. I just dont know where the correlation would be apart from crazy engine timing issues.

Very funny I wouldnt mind having another one but I would rather have a cummins again

I would love to be able to do everything myself. I could even find the space to do it too. The real problem I am having is finding the time. I am really only home one, maybe two days a week. It would take me months to get anything done. I dont think I could wait to have my truck back that long. I do not doubt at all the amount of money I would save is huge, but my time is worth a lot too.

I think I will check around for a good used engine to start with. It will be the most cost effective solution for the time being. The only problems I have with that is you dont know how the engine was cared for by the previous owner. I might try to find a wrecked truck with a good engine in it. At least then I could here it run and do all the preliminary checks on it myself. As for rebuilding mine, I know the head needs done too because it has went through a couple set of valve stem seals over the last 100k miles. The transmission really needs to be done too. Gets very noisy pulling hills and towing even with new fluid every year. I just need to really think about how much I want to keep this truck. This might be the opportunity to upgrade to a 3rd Gen with a crew cab. Any way you look at it, I will be out at least $5k-$10k.

That is where I am having a hard time deciding. I like the fact that my truck now is set up almost exactly how I want it. But I could maybe find something that doesn't have 250k miles on it. I just don't know what to do right now I guess.

Well I got some updates today. My guy checked valve lash, pulled the injector, and bore scoped the cylinder. Valve lash was good. Cylinder not so good. Piston is pretty beat up and he said he could see shadows cast by the grooves in the cylinder wall. It will require a tear down and cylinder re bore on #6 at the very least. I have checked with 2 very reputable shops in my area of Montana (including his) and seems the going rate for a full 24v build is about $10k. I don't have the space, equipment, and most importantly, time to do any of the work myself right now. The way I see it I have 3 options. Have the engine done and not worry about it. Look around for a good used engine and hope for the best. Sell the truck for what I can get out of it and go buy something else. What do you guys say?

Thanks for sharing those videos. Unfortunately for me I think mine sounds more like the first. The knock doesn't get any "smoother" with more RPM's. Not really an update, but I have a trusted diesel tech taking a look at the truck later this week. He works for a very reputable diesel and machine shop in Missoula and is going to look farther into it. I just really don't have the necessary time to look it over myself. I am actually on another business trip at the moment. He is going to check valve lash, pull and test the injector and do a compression test for me. We will get this thing figured out. Ill post any results he passes on. Thanks again everyone!!

I have not had a chance to check the valves out yet. I will do that next time I have a spare moment. I will also start working on getting a pop test and compression test done as well. Just finding that spare time is pretty hard!! You guys know all about that though.

Ok I have it narrowed down to a cylinder. I went through and loosened up the injector lines one by one and the knock completely went away when I loosened #6. Apart from the dead miss all the extra noise was gone until I tightened the line back up. On a side note, I just noticed there is a lot more blow by then normal too It is almost enough to lift the oil fill cap all the way out of the hole when just sitting in the valve cover. That is not a good sign.

Thank you guys for all the leads. I was going to start digging in on it today but it has been snowing all day here and I have come down with a wicked cold. I know, I know I am just being a pansy and need to fight through it If the weather is better tomorrow and I am not dying I will definitly jump on it. This is the first time my truck has ever been down and even in the last few days I have been feeling it already. I will post any and all findings ASAP. Thanks again for all the support. Kind of sucks being the broke down one after all this time.

Probably the oil filter. I will pull the valve cover off this weekend just to check things over and check the valve lash. If I were to run the engine with the valve cover off what I make a big mess? Maybe I would be able to see something while the engine is running if there is a problem in the valve train.

Very good possibility. Without any trouble codes from the VP is there any way to test it? Any way to see if it is firing correctly? I would hate to throw a VP at it if it wasn't a for sure problem. I will start by cracking the lines on Saturday. How much do they need to be loosened? Just so they spray a bit?

Very painful. I had to drive it like that for just over 400 miles to get home last night. Never got better or worse, just stayed the same. I will try cracking the lines this weekend when I get more time. Why would the valve lash all of a sudden be off? Ran fine and quiet until it died from lack of battery power. Ran like this ever since I got it started again. Not trying to be rude, just curious as to what the cause would be.

I found this video on youtube. It is not my truck but this sounds very similar to what my truck is sounding like. If this was your truck, where would you start to diagnose it? I just dont understand why I would get a knock after just running it dead and changing the alternator.

Is there a quick or easy way to check engine timing on these trucks? I would just like to rule out fuel knock or a timing issue.

They used a battery charger while they were changing the alternator. I am not sure what amperage they used to to do it though.