Ilikeoldfords

I have a set of badges like that too. Cant seem to find a spot that I think they look good though.. I was kind of thinking about putting them on right above the style line on the cab right behind the back doors.

When I got my needle valve a couple years back from Napa, it was only like $4.00. I checked on getting another the other day for my bro' s truck, same part number, same Napa, they want like $26.00 now!!!!!! I have no idea why it's so expensive all of a sudden.

As far as I know on these trucks, the defrost mode is actually just the AC running to suck the moisture out of the air. Back in the day, the defrost mode just meant fresh air instead of the recirculated air coming in. Someone correct me if I am wrong here though. I can always tell when I need to top off the R134a because my windows will start fogging up.

Sounds pretty good to me. If it were mine, I wouldnt worry about getting a snubber AND a needle valve. It is a little redundant in my opinion. Just go with a needle valve and barely crack it open. That will deaden the waterhammer from the VP and also give you a good valve that you can shut off in the case of a leak in the future.

Are the lift pumps on the 3rd gens inside the tank? Or someplace else? If it is inside the tank, when it is filled up maybe there is fuel getting inside the pump? I know that the CP3 is able to pull its own fuel but if there is a problem with the lift pump, could it die out like that? Just trying to think outside the box a bit.

Isolators are notorious for showing false gauge readings. I would definitely be looking to bleed the air out the that line if it were me. The air can compress in the line where the fuel wont. Most people I have seen start out with an isolator end up taking it off and running the fuel direct to the gauge or through a snubber. I am doing it the "Mike" way and just using a needle valve and airbrake tubing running the fuel directly into the gauge in the cab. If you do this, just double check that the airbrake tubing is fuel/oil rated. I have come across a few brands that are not. Wouldn't want the tubing to come apart on you later down the road.

Honestly, when I started replacing mine I just used regular rubber vacuum line. It's cheap, just cut it to whatever length you need. Just replace one line at a time.

Ok. The IAT fooler checked out fine. It read 39k and 56k ohms on the 3/6 cylinder fast idle settings. It read about 22k on the MPG mode. Is that where it should be reading on the MPG mode? As for the ECT fooler, it reads 0 ohms with the fooler off but on the 3 and 6 cylinder fast idle it was open. Seems like this is a problem. It read 0 phms on the MPG mode. What should I do next?

If you are running 2 pumps, and still getting a pressure drop of more than 10psi, I would almost say there must be a restriction somewhere. My brothers truck with stock LP and stock fuel lines only dropped about 5 psi from idle to WOT. This could be part of your problem too. If you are still using the stock fuel lines, there are a lot of places that could be plugged. The banjo fittings would be where I would start looking. Keep in mind, I don't know if this is at all related to your power loss problem, but it is a problem that should be addressed in the future. Especially if you end up needed a new VP.

I would like to jump in and just say: Before putting a timing/fueling box on the truck, I would really be looking for a decent set of gauges to put in the truck first. At least fuel pressure, Trans temp, and EGT. This way you know exactly how the truck is running when you do go with a programmer. Now, for the programmer, Smarty is always a good one to go with. You get the high idle software with it and smarty seems to be one of the higher quality programmers in my opinion. The Edge comp is also a great tuner for our trucks. All power and no gauges/sensors to mess with. Just plug it in and go. The comp is also nice because you can adjust it on the fly, where with the smarty you cannot. I believe the Edge comp adds the most power compared to any other programmer too. The Edge Juice might add just as much power but then you have to deal with settings, sensors, built in gauges and all that stuff. The comp is very simple and easy to use. Just my 2 cents on the subject. Also, I know others that dont care for it, but I really love my hot unlock with my edge. This thing fuel hard!

I got mine at the local Cummins shop. Unfortunately I don't remember the part number. The ones that I got looked like a metal washer with a rubber coating over them. The old ones that I pulled out were just about nonexistent so I cant tell you what kind they were. Just by changing those little washers made a huge difference for me. Solved a large fuel leak, hard start problem, prime loss, and a bad fuel smell in the cab.

I would imagine it is kind of a safety issue not maintaining the roads like that. If there was ever a forest fire started back there, they wouldn't be able to get back there to fight it!!

I have Isspro gauges and really enjoy them. I agree that they are a bit overpriced but they look good and function good as far as I can tell. Have about 30,000 miles on them now.

I purchased my replacement housings on Ebay. I think the pair was about $140. The headlight and turn signal are all one piece on mine and the backdrop inside the housing is black. Looks pretty nice and performs pretty nice as well. I had the same issue of condensation on the inside of the housing. You should be able to see them in the pictures I have of the truck in my "garage".

The Comp does boost fooling very well. I have had my truck (With stock HX35....) up to about 45psi back when I had 100hp injectors. Never set a light off or code either. I would think that any Edge tuner/programmer should be set up for boost fooling. At least I have never seen one that isn't.

While you have all this stuff apart, it would be a good idea to replace the sealing washers on that return line that comes out of the back of the head. Very simple and cheap to do. When my return line was leaking back there it looked almost exactly like that picture you have. looks a lot like oil but it wasn't on mine. I replaced the sealing washers on that banjo fitting back there and everything is nice and dry now. It was also causing me a hard start issue too. Very common leak spot.

Recently I have had a problem with the high idle kicking in even with the switch in MPG mode. If it is telling the computer that the IAT is 143* then why would the fast idle kick in? This is before the truck gets up to the 170* coolant temp. I haven't checked into it at all yet. It just acts like there isn't an MPG mode at all. I will check resistances maybe this next weekend when it gets nice out.

Well the scraper/puddy knife did the truck! Letting it drain for now. Will get it all back together this afternoon. Thanks again!!

That was the one tool I didnt try today!! Hopefully that will be the trick tomorrow. I should have drove the truck around a bit BEFORE starting this project. I am sure with the axle warmed up a bit, things would be a lot easier to work with. Thanks again for the tips guys. Its nice to know that others have had problems too.

Hey Bill, I cant "like" your posts either.

Just the Raptor 100. I built my own 3/8's big line kit complete with spin on fuel filter. I originally purchased and installed the pump about 2 years ago. I have probably over 40,000 miles on the set up at this point and everything seems to be running just fine. Holding steady pressures and everything, just the noisy pump. I am in the process of rebuilding an old FASS 95 pump that I had laying around and will probably put that one back on the truck. Keep the raptor for a back up.

Thanks for the tips. Gonna take one of those beloved beer breaks for a bit and warm up. Might try it again in a little bit.

Ok got a couple more questions. How in the he** do you get the cover off if I don't have access to heat? Looks like they used grey rtv last time. I can't get I to budge!! Also, once I do get it off, are there torque specs for the cover bolts?

Mine was real quiet for the first 6 months or so. Then it got really noisy. Not real sure why though. The pressure stays very steady and I have never had the regulator issues that others talk of. One thing I was just thinking about, did you drive the truck around a bit before you adjusted the pressure? Or just start it and adjust right away? The reason I ask is because the pressure will be lower right after start up usually because the grid heaters are cycling on and off. They suck up a lot of electrical juice. You might drive it down the road (At least 20 mph) and see where the pressure sits.

Well I have my steering brace ordered up!! Should see it on Monday or Tuesday. I will post up results once I get it all mounted up. I am still running my 35in tires so we will see how much it helps. I really need to get a new steering gear box and ball joints at some point but I will start with shocks and the brace for now.