Ilikeoldfords

Yep. That is how my Raptor is too. That is why I mentioned keeping an eye on the gauge while you adjust. It can get out of hand real quick like!!

Just a quick question out of curiosity, did you notice much improvement with the wicked wheel? And which turbo do you have? The HX or the HY?

I always wait until things are warmed up to adjust mine. I don't see any difference in pressure warm or cold though usually, unless its -30 or colder. You can safely turn the pressure up or down while the truck is running. It is actually better to do it while running so you know what the idle pressure it. Just make sure you are watching the gauge so you don't over pressure it.

I definitely agree on the weight distribution system with sway control. That will make a world of difference for ya. It would be easy to tell if it has 6k or 7k axles. The only real difference with the Dexters is 1/2in wheel studs vs. 9/16's studs. Also would be a very good idea to see what they used for tires. Hope they are 10 ply and preferably radial. Other than the general trailer stuff, I dont know much about that actual brand.

Sounds like a challenge to me....

Yep. A Smarty can only tune one truck. Once you put a tune on your truck, that smarty is stuck with your truck until you return it to factory settings. It will leave the high idle feature on your truck though even after returning it to factory conditions. It was kind of fun to see what it would be like to have a smarty though. DAP Sends a return label with it so when you are finished, just box it up and mail her back. Very nice product, especially stacked with my comp...

I am really hoping to get one in the next month or so. It seems that the old dodge only gets out when we are going on a road trip now. Especially with my larger tires I know it should make a big difference out on the open highway. My steering gearbox needs replaced real bad too but I just cant see coming up with the funds for that anytime soon. I am going to start rebuilding the front end a little bit by bit. I think this brace would be a good place to start!!

Should be on top like where the brake line tee is. Should be a rubber hose coming off of it going up towards the pickup box.

Ok guys. I know this one has been hit before but I am having a hard time finding the old threads on it. My question is this. What fluid should I use? Is a new gasket required when putting the cover back on? Do I need any additive do go with the fluid? I dont believe I have limited slip. One tire will spin freely on slick surfaces anyway. This is on my 01 ram 2500. Dana 80 rear end with 3.55's. Thanks for any tips!!

No need to drop the tank or anything. I just used the electric lift pump to basically run the tank dry into a couple fuel cans. Drill the hole in the tank, and mount her up!! Very simple. The whole thing didn't take more than 30 minutes to do. The most time consuming part is draining the tank. Here is their video on the installation. Youtube

Like Mike said, I would make sure that everything from the tank to the injection pump is at least 3/8's inch or bigger. That includes all the fittings too. One question, when was the last time the fuel filter was changed? It might be plugged up causing a restriction. I was having a pretty bad pressure drop like that when I installed my raptor pump. I recently installed a fuel tank sump and all my pressure drop issues went away. The stock sending unit inside the tank was causing a big restriction in my case. Something to think about. Here is the tank sump that I used..... Tank Sump. Really great product too.

http://www.boredpanda.com/honey-on-tap-flow-hive-stuart-cedar-anderson/ Something kind of neat I found online. I am not a beekeeper myself but made me think of you guys...

Ya Mike I think your 02 is the only truck that I know of that the dash is still in one piece and hasnt been replaced yet. Mine is in about 3 pieces now and the bezel is cracked throughout the entire thing.

Very impressive for a do-it-yourself bumper!! Looks real good!! I really want to do a set for mine too but I am going to have to get friendly with someone who has the right tools/equipment to do such a job. Overall how much time do you think you had into it?

Am I right to assume that one of those part numbers are for the front and the other is for the rear?

I dont think it would really matter to much on the clutch safety switch. It should be just a simple 2 wire switch anyway.

Sorry to bring this old thread back up. I am finally getting around to ordering some replacement shocks for the old truck. I do still have the 2.5in leveling kit. I am running a factory track bar still as well with no issues. I am not sure why everyone else is having issues making things fit and work right. Anyway, does anyone know what the minimum extended length needs to be for front shocks to work with the leveling kit? I know AHI64D says the stock bilsteins will work but I cant find a spec on the extended length for those. Thanks tons!!

It would be interesting to find out. Anyone have one of these trucks laying around?

Wow. 150k on the same belt!! There are a lot of serpentine belts that I wouldn't trust to go that far!!

True. My bro has a stock ram with 3.55's and stock tires. My truck runs at the rpms as his does, just about 10 mph faster. The difference between stock tires and the 35's. I have a trick for the wind resistance though. Just drive with the wind!! Make all kinds of good mileage that way

Congrats joe!! Pretty awesome event to have happen in your life !!

Just a thought on Mikes dirty stock filter. Is it actual debris getting through the first filter? Or is it just discolored from the 2 stroke oil? I know my filters always come out pretty dark looking since I started using the 2 stroke oil.

Probably get a floor jack with a board balanced on top. Set it up underneath the door and that way it will support the weight. It will probably be best to have a buddy there to help balance it while you unbolt and replace the hinges. That way you dont have to unhook any of the electrical wiring going to the door. All of this is just theoretical being I have never had to mess with the hinges on these trucks....

So you couldnt make the new bearings work? I checked with SKF (they are a vendor of the company that I work for) and that said that the 608rs and 608-2rs should be the exact same dimensions. Did you happen to take measurements off the shaft or the old bearings? I could always just go and measure my pump. Its still apart on the bench. I am still having one problem with my pump though. That wavey washer came out in pieces. Any idea where I could get another? I wonder if I could find one at a hardware store. Maybe I can find a light spring to put in there to accomplish the same thing?

If Mopartechnician hasnt had any issues with that one that he installed, I would think that the pump should be fine in the cold. He is in one of the colder areas of the country. Maybe he will jump in and let us know how its going with that there pump.