Ilikeoldfords

Will disconnecting the batteries like that let things reset? I just checked the codes using the key and only got a P0217. Haven't had time to get my hands on a code reader yet. Got almost 300 miles on since the new alternator today. Got about 200 to go tonight to get home. Sound has not changed at all. Still the same. I still have not seen a check engine light yet though and all gauges are working as they should.

Thanks for all the quick reply. Oil level good. Still not sure on the codes. As far as fuel pressure it had gotten down to about 12 psi before she died. It did hack and cough and smoke and sputter real good for about the first 10 minutes after starting again though. So I know there was a fuel issue. Maybe the pressure had dropped farther than I thought. I am still on my business trip as we speak. I have gotten about 200 more miles on the truck since the incident. No change in the knock at all.

Hey guys. I got a pretty loud knock happening with the old Cummins and could use some help identifying it. My alternator went out on a business trip this week. In an attempt to limp the truck to the next town I ran it dead. I had a new alternator put in it and got it all charged back up. When I fired it back up it was smoking a lot I had a miss and knocked real bad. I put about 20 miles on it and the miss/smoke went away but the knock is still there. It changes up and down with engine speed. I have checked under the hood or tools left over belt issues and anything obvious. Boost fuel pressure and exhaust temp are all normal. No check engine light but I will pull codes next time I get a moment. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

One place to look would be the electrical in the steering column. I have heard of issues there especially if you adjust the steering wheel up and down. The wiring coming from the ignition switch might be messed up. One question, do you get a wait to start light like normal?

Just a quick question. I know you said the lift pump is working fine. What kind of pressure is it putting out? Needs to be around 14psi min and 20psi max. If not, damage can occur to the Injection pump.

Cool. It's getting new rotors and bearings for both sides. Still running the original stuff at 260k miles. Hopefully will get it back together this weekend. Thanks tons!!

One more question on my caprice. I am going to be changing the front rotors and that requires removing the wheel bearings and all that. I am fine with the repacking and everything but what is the torque procedure on front wheel bearings for an older rear wheel drive car like that? Just preload them and make sure the nut is snug?

Sounds simple enough. I figured a system from 1992 wouldnt be to hard.

Hey guys. I am working on the old chevy again. I am going to be replacing the turn signal cam and ignition switch. I pulled off the front cover on the steering wheel and it has an airbag!! This is a 1992 Caprice classic. Does anyone know what the disarm procedure is for this car? I dont really need an airbag going off because I unplugged the wrong thing. Thanks for any tips!

Well you guys were right! I was in the middle of a 1000 mile trip and pulled up to a stop sign. Pushed in the peddle and the truck kept right on going lol! Got me a new OE pre bred system and all is well! Thanks for the help as always!

Not sure why I didnt think about that. Thanks for setting it straight for me.

But that would give me 0v on high correct? I need the opposite. Because I set my lights up over an extended amount of time, I just set up two completely separate circuits for the driving and fog lights. All I need is a 12v signal to turn on the fog lights with the high beams.

I have also seen internal corrosion problems on the trailer tow plug under the rear bumper. If that thing gets corroded inside or on the plug going into the back of it, it can short things out too. Just another thing to check and keep in mind.

Hey guys. I am finally getting around to finishing up installing a couple extra sets of driving lights. I have some 50w spot beams that I wired to their own switch and they work great. I am trying to finish up the 100w spot beams now. I have them all wired with a relay system, I just need a power source to trigger the relay. The problem is I would really like them to just come on with the high beams. After taking a step back and checking out some wiring diagrams, I realized that the whole headlight system is based on a ground switching circuit. This wont really work with my wiring set up I have at the moment. Is there anywhere in the system that I could find a good power source for a trigger? Or am I better off just wiring in a stand alone toggle switch for the lights and dealing with turning them on and off separately from the headlight system?

I am sure you have already went through this but might not hurt to check. Did the vibration start after changing anything? Or fixing anything? Has it always vibrated? Just trying to help narrow down when it started.

Nothing noticeable. Couldnt see anything wet under the dash. Does the slave ever leak?

At the moment my oil consumption is about a quart every 1000 miles. It doesnt leak on the ground anywhere. It was going through about this much oil before i had the last set of valve seals in. After the new seals i was only going through about a quart every 8000 miles. Guess its time for a head job. Any idea how much a thorough job costs?

I will check into getting a new stock system. In the mean time, I think I will go through this one with a fine tooth comb and see if I can find any leaks. The other weird part is pumping the pedal doesnt seem to help at all. I would think with a leaking system that it would help, but maybe not?

Sorry it has taken so long to reply. Been so busy with work and everything. I sure hope that hydro system isnt worn out already. It is the high pressure set up from Valair and only about 3 years old. Maybe its not as quality of a product as I thought. One problem I have now is I didnt save the original set up to rebuild . I wonder if the stock parts will work with the Valair parts... I wouldnt mind keeping the adjustable pedal rod and stainless high pressure hose. Thanks for the input. I will definitely check on that stuff.

If the valve guides are worn out, what does one do from there? Full head job? I have went through 2 sets of valve seals in about 100k miles and this set is starting to leak some oil too. The guy I bought the truck from had said the head was just gone through before I bought it. Apparently whoever did the work didnt know what they were doing...

Howdy guys. Got a problem with the old dodge that is finally bugging me enough to do something about. I am having a hard time with the clutch letting go when it's supposed to. It's not hanging up enough to push me forward when stopped but it's making shifting a real pain. I can also feel the transmission still trying to turn when coming to a stop. Still drive able but becoming a real pain. Some facts about my clutch. It is in my 2001 ram with the NV5600. I replaced the entire hydraulics system with a high pressure system from Valair about 3 years ago. No leaks anywhere that I can see. The clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and throw out bearing were all replaced 2 years ago with a full Valair single disc set. The flywheel was machined (I know that's not recommended but was short on cash). I started having the problems about 6 months after the clutch was replaced. It's just getting bad enough that I almost can't do any in town driving for fear of hurting the transmission. I have adjusted the clutch pedal up as far as I can and that seemed to help a lot but it is still hanging up. Sorry for the novel. Just trying to provide all the details. Is there anything I can check without removing the transmission to have a look? I am not looking forward to dropping the tranny by myself.

As for diagnosing my seals, the truck was in a shop getting injectors put in. They found chunks of the seals laying in the head. Just had them do the change out for me.

Hello there. I think that valve stem seals are definitely a possibility in the situation. When I bought my truck it was going through about the same amount of oil in the same time. Had the seals changed out and the oil consumption went away. Now, mine also smoked white/blue after a cold start up for a few minutes too. Does your truck smoke after a cold start up at all? That being said, a couple years after getting them seals changed, the oil consumption issue is back. I am not sure what could be eating my valve seals but I will have to find out soon. Hope this helps.

Now being that he said the dash indicator came on for the cruise, would that eliminate the clock spring? Just a funny thought here, I have had a mis adjusted brake light switch cause issues like this. The pedal was bouncing just a little down the road and it kept turning the brake lights on for just a split second. Made the cruise not work.

I dont want to condemn your VP, but mine did this exact same thing before I changed out the VP. The problem went away with a new pump. I didnt have any codes either. I think it was just the timing piston or whatever in the VP getting stuck. I would just pop the clutch while I was still coasting and the truck would fire right back up.