Ilikeoldfords

If it is a steel whip antenna you can shorten or lengthen the antenna by moving the whip part up and down. It is usually held in place with a set screw. Some fiberglass antennas have a metal or wire tip that can be trimmed or extended to tune the antenna. Otherwise you just use the SWR meter to tune the antenna. Some CB's even come with a built in SWR meter and tuner. My Cobra 29 has that feature. The way the antenna is connected to the vehicle and coax cable also make a huge difference in operation.

There are lots of places that air can get it. The return line coming out of the back of the cylinder head, the return tee, any and all fuel line connections. The top of the tank and the fuel tank sender basket are also known for problems. One way to check for air leaks is to route in a piece of clear hose into the fuel system. You can watch for air bubbles traveling through the clear hose. Another test you can run is doing a hot wire on the injection pump. This should eliminate any electrical issues as long as the pump itself is in good working order. Check out this link. It has tons of good info on what to check in the fuel system and also the hot wire trick for the pump. https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44_diagnostics.html

I am running my comp still. Maybe I need to unhook it from the truck and see if it makes a difference. I was more just curious if there was a way I could see what the timing is at a givin RPM. Will a scangauge show that kind of info?

If I remember correctly, I was able to replace my headlight housings without removing the batteries. There should be like 2-3 screws between the light and the top of the bumper you can get to from the front. If you do end up pulling the batteries you can either just do one at a time so you dont loose power or when you do hook the batteries back up just slowly push the gas pedal in three times. That will reset the Apps sensor. Everything else should be good to go. Definitely get on the fuel pressure gauge train. I personally like the Isspro gauges. Your fuel pressure should ideally be between 15-20psi to the injection at all times. The minimum safe pressure is 10psi before damage can happen to the injection pump. It uses the fuel to cool and lubricate the injection pump so a lack of pressure is no good. The idle speed changing sounds like a possible bad APPS sensor. That is the problem mine had when it died. If after you shut it down and restart the idle returns to normal I would look at replacing the Apps with a Timbo sensor. If you are still running the factory lift pump you may want to consider upgrading to a Fass or Airdog pump of some kind. The factory pumps (even the factory recall in-tank pumps) arent very reliable and dont hold the pressure up very well. Other than that you got one heck of a truck!! That thing should last you years!! Good luck with it!

Is there a good way to check engine timing on these engines? Since I have gotten my truck back with the new engine it almost seems like the timing is off to me. It used to get pretty loud right around 2100 rpms or so especially when towing. Now it stays quiet all the way through to 2500. That is as fast as I have ran the new engine. It just seems like the timing is way to advanced to me.

Just a question. What does your fuel pressure look like? Maybe you arent getting enough fuel with the Edge on?

1/8" would be perfect for your gauge. One question I have is about the fuel rating. Is anyone concerned that it specifies NOT FOR FUEL?? When I ran my gauges I made sure to get line made for oil and fuel use. If it were me personally I wouldnt want to risk that line failing in my cab or over the hot engine. Just a thought.

If I remember correctly the grid heater will cycle anytime after the truck has been started until you get it up to 20 mph. Then it stops cycling the grids. Also, the APPS sensors on these trucks are pretty notorious for failing. I am not saying yours has failed for sure but if you are still having problems with it and it is setting codes I would maybe look at switching it out. Where are you seeing the APPS percentage at? The Edge? Speaking of codes you may want to check your codes again with an actual code reader. The 1693 just means there is a code in the other module (PCM,ECM) so there should be at least one other code hanging out in there.

The grid heater shouldnt be causing any issues with the APPS sensor or anything else. Unless maybe the grid is shorted out somewhere and maybe drawing to much power?? Not sure on that one. What kind of voltage do you show on the the gauge when these problems happen? When I was living in North Dakota there were a couple times in the winter that my alternator acted up. Sometimes it wouldnt charge at all and other times it would overcharge. I know the ECM controls this but it only did it when below 0. Kind of strange but maybe something like that is happening here.

I just used the Diesel Auto Power rental when I did mine. You pay the rental fee, they send it to you with a return label, you do your flash and play around a bit, then return to stock and send back to DAP. Pretty easy set up. Maybe there is a member here that has a smarty already and wouldnt mind making some cash by renting it out once in a while? Just an idea.

I see. I do like the looks of that new switch a lot better. Guess I will have to break down and get one at some point. Thanks for the info.

If he has gone through that many VP's he may want to look at a new lift pump and fuel pressure gauge MINIMUM. He has some issues going on.

Sweet! Do you know what days you will be in the area? If I am in town we could definitely meet up. That is, if I am not interrupting your honeymoon.

Ok will do.

Hey guys. I am still running one of the original switch assemblies that were sold through DAP and I am finally starting to have some issues with it. As soon as I turn it to MPG it throws a P0113 code/CEL comes on. Is there something I can do to fix this or is the switch just bad? I dont mind doing a little work to it if I know what to look for.

The wife and I need to make down your way at some point Mike. All things considered, we arent that far apart. Good to see you got him fixed up though!

The only thing to keep in mind if you are looking locally is make sure the sealant is rated for diesel use. The regular white thread sealant tape will get eaten up by the fuel. That's why the yellow stuff must be used.

Is there a temp sensor out of wack? Could be effecting the timing. Intake air temp/pressure or coolant temp?

I couldnt even imagine feeling what you are right now. I am sorry for what its worth. Will keep my eyes peeled in Montana if it helps.

Wouldnt that cause a miss all the time though? It runs perfect after a cold start, just misses when hot.

I have had Isspro mechanical gauges since I got my truck in 2011. No issues whatsoever and I would definitely buy them again when I have to. I also like how the Isspro's blend with our factory clusters. Nice gauges all around.

OK fellas. The moment you have all been waiting for!! Just had the reman'd motor stuck back in my truck last weekend. I have to say it is fantastic to have my truck back. This motor is way quieter than my last motor before toasting that piston. I got the long block from a company in Spokane, WA called Motorworks, Inc. Very good customer service and seems like a good product so far. I also sent them my turbo and they tumbled it clean and put a seal/bearing kit into it. Here are the other new things that went in with the motor: Reseal on the vacuum pump Larry B's starter rebuild New batteries New water pump New RV275 injectors New intercooler boots New pilot/throw out bearings All the rest of the odds and ends (Thermostat, hoses, belt, gaskets of course) I did my initial 500 miles and dumped the oil this week. Gonna 1k miles then dump again probably. One thing I found interesting is the engine builder didnt want me using any additives to break in but did say to use only Rotella oil or the warranty is void. The warranty is 1 year or 12k miles. I am having an issue with the engine missing a lot after it warms up. I cant see any fuel leaks or anything but I am wondering if it isnt sucking air from some place. I went with new copper sealing washers and orings but reused the old connecting tubes because they still looked to be in good shape. I hope there isnt a problem there. I had a good friend of mine do all the labor and I supplied all the parts. It was a good deal being i paid him with the old chevy caprice I have had for a while. He is a certified diesel shop and very meticulous with his work. Just have to work the bugs out now.

Looking at maybe doing exhaust on the new toy. Probably just a cat-back system for now. How does everyone feel about SLP systems? They seem to be good quality and cheaper than flowmaster/magnaflow. I would probably go with the loudmouth II system. Just not sure though.

Sold this car last week!! Whatever it was, not my problem anymore!! Thanks for the tips though.

99% of all trailer axles are cambered these days. They are all designed to flatten out as you put a load on them. As for extending them, I have seen it done lots of times. Most people use and sleeve and box the outside of the tube. It is almost impossible however to reset the spindles in the end of the tube without an alignment rack. Especially being a tandem axle trailer. My question is, how much did you get the axles for? It may not be quite as good a deal as you think. Are they trailer house axles? Did they come with brakes and everything? The other thing to keep in mind is the leaf springs may only be rated for 1700 lbs each. That is very common on a 3500 lb axle suspension. You may have to replace those too. There is a lot going on here. Dont mean to be pushy or anthing though. I sell a lot of trailer suspensions at work.