Ilikeoldfords

Just installed a ISSPRO mechanical gauge two weeks ago. It was very easy to set up and I am running a needle valve with it. If You do it right and use the right tubing, you should never have a problem of fuel in the cab. I like mechanical because there is hardly anything to go wrong with them. Electric, you have power issues, ground issues, sender issues, and the such. Just my ideas.

Ya I am going to change that inline filter before the DDRP and see what comes of it. - - - Updated - - - So i changed the filter before the pump and it didnt really help. I didnt get out and drive it yet but it still only had 16 psi at idle. I think I posted this in another thread already, but I found out that I dont actually have the DDRP. I took a closer look and the tag says FASS HPFP. I am not sure what one but I could only guess it is the 95 gpm. What psi should these babies be running?

Cool. That makes perfect sense to me. Thank you for clearing me up on it

Do you remember when they made the switch to the higher flow pumps?

Ok so I got curious and crawled under the truck again. I was trying to find a date of manufacture but I didn't see one. At a closer look, the tag actually says fass hpfp. But, I have no idea which one. I read that some of the hpfp's are adjustable? Any ideas?

If I may butt in real quick, what is drive pressure?

I am running the DDRP with a big line kit (3/8). It is mounted on the frame well a could feet before the back tire. I am not sure how old the pump is because it was in the truck when I bought it. I just got a gauge on it finally last week and am kinda scared at what I found. At idle, I am holding 15 psi, cruising I am around 12-13 psi, at WOT it will drop as low as 8:ahhh: I found a filter inline before the pump so I am going to try changing that and the stock fuel filter and see what happens. The truck has everything in my sig. I dont think I would even mess with an electric pump. To many things can effect it. If it were me, I would go straight to a mechanical pump. Hope this helps !!

That would just about have to explain it. I heard somewhere that there is no summer/winter fuel for diesel. For some reason they were saying we just use the same fuel all year round. Thats why I didnt take it into account I guess:doh: - - - Updated - - - I did use the 2.2 for a while. no improvement though.

I understand that. What I am trying to get at is I was averaging 18-19 during the summer. Now I can't get any higher than 16.4? I know that I will never get over 20 with my set up. I am just trying to get to my summer mileage.

So I did a few tanks with the 2.2 ohm resister. I tried the comp on and off. The best I could make was 16. I'm gonna try the 3.3 ohm and see what happens.

I have upgraded 3/8" line from the tank to the VP. I also replace the fuel filter every 5000 miles. Someone put a small inline filter back before the DDRP. I am going to replace that and see what happens. This is why I was wondering about the bigger injectors making the pressure lower.

Ok that's kinda what I thought. If I wasn't running such large injectors, would that help keep my pressures up? Cause there would t be as much fuel going into the engine, making the pressure to the vp higher??

Got my gauge all set up. Runnin a solid 15 psi at idle. Hung around 13 while cruising. Did one hard pull at wide open throttle and it dropped down to 9 for a second. Is this about right for a ddrp?

Ok, so if it doesn't stay after everything is returned to stock, and the dealer can't do anything for me, the only way to calibrate the speedo is to buy myself a smarty? There's gotta be another way??

Ya I have decided to run a valve instead too. I have all the stuff and I'm gonna hook the gauge up tomorrow. I gotta get the valve in the morning though.

If its cold, it hovers around 75-80 psi. All warmed up it is usually around 40-50 psi.

Ya I adjusted them and re adjusted them just to be sure. - - - Updated - - - I am just gonna go through the dealer, They actually gave me a pretty good quote on all the cables and the tensioner. Thanks for the input though!!

Just to give an update, it was a good call on the hour labor time at the dealer. It came out to about $90 and on top of that they said they could only calibrate it for the largest stock size tire for this year and model :banghead: I think my uncle has a smarty so I will have to get with him. If someone does find out if the calibration stays or not, that would be great:hyper:. I would like to know if it wont work before I drive 3 hours away hahaha!!

Ok. I will check around for someone with a smarty. No one comes to mind though. I will still check with the dealer and just see what they would charge. I'm kinda curious.

I think the one at Geno's went up to close to $90 this year. I was just doing some research over at the cummins forum and everyone was saying that the stock oil pressure gauge was more of just an idiot light. As long as the ECM see's more than like 6 psi, it just throws out a number on the gauge. I think I am probably just going to stick with a mechanical gauge. Has anyone else heard of this?

Just to double check, The connector for this sensor is right behind the ECM on the driver side of the engine, correct? Its a green connector? I know it should be a three wire plug, but if the location is correct, mine only has one wire going to it...

Hi everyone!! I am having a hard time trying to get the parking brake adjusted on my Ranger. The cable tensioner seems to be rusted solid and I cant get the nut to turn to tighten it up. I was going to just purchase a new tensioner but no one sells them!! At least, I havent found on yet. Any ideas? Thank you in advance!! Trying to save a trip to the Ford dealer:rolleyes:

I would seriously think about just putting the gear vendors on the 6 speed box. I have the 6 speed also and I am always wanting the extra overdrive and even some in-between gears, especially between 4-5 and 5-6. Then you could have all kinds of usable rpm power/torque ranges. There are reasons that big rigs have between 10 all the way up to 18 gears:thumbup2:

Since I have had my truck, the stock oil pressure gauge has not worked. The people before me installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge on the pillar but I want to put my fuel pressure gauge there. Is there any way to test the oil pressure sender? I just want to make sure thats whats wrong. The gauge in the dash just sits at 40 psi any time the key is on. I also have the code p0522. I believe that is for the oil pressure being out of range or something. Thanks!!! - - - Updated - - - I read through the p0522 code article already, I was just wondering if anyone had a similar problem with their oil sensor before. I am pretty sure its just the sending unit but I dont wanna waste $80 if thats not whats wrong.

To the dealer I go then. Do you know about how much they charge for that?