Ilikeoldfords

I have mechanical oil pressure, fuel pressure, and boost gauges, all Isspro. I think DAP sells them. I got them through work but you should be able to find them other places. That way you can still have the Isspro's but all mechanical.

If I'm not mistaken, dodge vehicles usually do run the compressor in all selections except in the off position. I could be wrong though. I have listened to mine lately but I think that's the case.

Mine bumps the pressure around just a little bit until I get out on a road trip. Then it'll settle at a steady pressure. The other thing I was thinking about the OP, how is your voltage? If you don't have steady power it will fluctuate the pressure because the pump rpm's will go wherever the voltage goes. You might have a bad connection somewhere. Just a thought.

I myself have been thinking about a propane injection set up. I don't really have a problem with egts how I'm set up and what I haul, but I would like a boost in fuel economy. How much is a good set up and what does it take to install usually?

Just to add my two...My cousin owns a tire shop. His best seller is the Hankook dynapro A/T's. they are rated at 50,000 miles but he has had multiple sets come in with close to 75,000 on them. I purchased a set last fall and I love them. They handle great in snow and gravel. I went with 35's so I could only get a load range D but I have been impressed with them since I bought them. They are not mud tires by any means but a great all around hwy, dirt, gravel, whatever you need.

Ok I was leaning towards LMC but wasn't sure about the quality. Thanks again for the suggestions.

Hi guys. My grill is starting to fall apart. I am looking for a good place to get a decent replacement grill. I am also looking at maybe getting a billet style or something other than stock. I want to stay with a chromed shell. Where should I look? Thanks in advance!!!

I second the stealth plate. I had a wire tap before and had nothing but problems getting a good connection there. It was especially bad in the winter when they put that crap on the road. Not to mention, if you have a warranty on the VP, a wire tap will almost always void the warranty. You should notice a fair amount of more black smoke in the bottom end before your turbo lights. This is if you have it tapped correctly.

Since you aren't getting excessive smoke, I would say that your airflow is ok. I would change the fuel filter just to be safe. Still sounds like a fueling issue.

Good to know. What part of it exactly broke? I think I have to change the shoes out for it. Doesn't wanna grab anymore and I've adjusted all the way. Hope the cables haven't stretched..

You are correct. Mine is an early 01 and it has the drop in style filter. I'm confused as to where he is getting his reading there.

I think the line shouldn't matter. Pressure will be the same no matter how big it is. What's odd is the 5psi drop between filter and vp. Clogged filter? 10 psi isn't near enough for the vp to stay healthy.

You might check the valve guides. I was missing half of my valve seals because some nimby didn't adjust his spring compressor before putting it all back together. Just with 11 seals missing, I was going through a quart every 300-400 miles. Smoked a lot too. Got those replaced and now don't go through hardly any oil.

That's what I was making when I had about that same exact commute. Mine was about 50/50 city and highway but I was able to make 20 fairly easy. I also know what you mean about the turbo sound

This is what I did too but I still seem to have a drop of about 4-6psi between idle and wot. I have the raptor 100 though.

I'm in Grand Forks, ND and we are between 3.99 and 4.05.

Are you running an aftermarket turbo or anything? That's a lot of juice for a stock turbo.. Otherwise that's pretty darn good. I would love it if my diesel was that cheap...

Since your gonna be in there, might as well get some kind of a draw straw too. Not sure if your kit came with one. Otherwise you will still be restricted to the stock tank hardware like I am. I'm still having pressure drop issues because of it....

Thanks!! It's a 1973 Monaco 10.5 footer. Not perfect but can't beat free right?

[ATTACH]5967[/ATTACH]Not sure how much this guy weighed with the front loader and mower deck but I definitely felt it back there.

[ATTACH]5966[/ATTACH]Had some fun on the Oregon coast last summer. The camper is a full wood frame and all wood interior so it's about 5000# plus the wind drag. The trailer with the machines came out to about 4500#.

I got my pump from DAP. Is anyone aware of their policy for using the stealth plate? In the paperwork and receipt all they mentioned was the wire tap. Didn't see anything about the stealth plate.

Just a side note, when hooking the comp up is it totally necessary to tap the pump? What does that wire actually do for the comp? I only ask because I am waiting on a stealth plate and I am still running the tuner untapped. I guess tapping the wire voids new VP warranties.

I also had this exact problem when my apps died.

Most auto shops and even tire shops have a brake lathe. Some can even be done without even taking the rotors off the truck. Drums can be turned too but those have to be removed obviously. As far as I know, most orielly's auto houses can actually turn rotors/drums too now. I dont mean to step on toes or argue with anyone but 99.8% of all big trucks (class 8) still use drums on the steer axle. Most of the time they dont lathe the drums, they just replace. Unless you were just talking about medium duty trucks....