Ilikeoldfords

Most of the time if any part of the pump is messed with, it will not be accepted as a good core. I wouldnt mess with it if I were you. Thats $400 that I really dont have to throw away.

Oh ok. We have been seeing a high of -5 in the daytime here in grand forks. The station I usually fill up at I never have any problems with as their fuel is blended for -30*. My last tank I filled down in Fargo and I'm having a little trouble with it. Trying to get it out of the truck and fill up here again.

And you know 100% sure it's coolant? Could be brake fluid getting tossed up from the caliper?? Maybe a burst brake line?

I am having the same problem with my raptor. Not quite gelling but it's bringing the pressure down. I just turned the regulator up and it's been ok. This cold does weird things to trucks. Where at in ND are you located fossum?

I would think about changing the apps sensor out. Sounds like it's no good. You can also test it first by using a good multimeter and checking the output voltages.

Looking at a -19* for the current temps here this morning. There is also about a 15-20 wind chill factor to go along with that. I'm not going outside today.

That's what it was here too. Supposed to be an actual of -19 tomorrow with the same amount of wind chill!!! Brrrrrrrrrr. I don't mind the snow but this cold sucks.

I personally have a Raptor 100. I purchased mine this last spring and its still running strong. I have always run a good filter (Baldwin BF1212) before it and it has always been relocated to the frame rail. I have been lucky in not having the issues that most others have had with theirs and will definitely be looking at a mechanical set up whenever I start having issues. I have heard that the issues have since been fixed but others might not agree. I am perfectly fine with the Raptors as long as you have a good filter before it and its mounted away from the heat and vibration of the engine.

Its basically the Fass verison of the Raptor frrp. Just the basic OE replacement. The 95 is the Fass version of the Raptor 100. I have heard a ton of people go with the DDRP and not have any issues but for the set up you are going for, I think the 95 would be perfect. You can mount it almost anywhere (like the Raptor 100) and it will give more than enough juice for stock and more. Check out Beans Diesel Performance for the sump. They have a great video on it.

You can always get the mechanical pump and just install a fuel sump on the tank. This way you dont have to drop the tank to install it. Mopartechnician has some really good info on it. Otherwise if you want to stay electric than I would look at a FASS 95. Fass is still a good brand for electric pumps.

I used to borrow a friends 1997 ram and it had the stock keyless entry set up. My 01 doesnt have it though I do have electric locks.

I don't think I've seen anything above 30* in the day time here in at least 2-3 weeks. Most of the time at night we hover between -5 and 0*. It's been pretty chilly if you ask me....

Fortunately I grind flywheels at my store so that part is covered. I do mostly big truck and tractor flywheels so when I do mine it shouldn't be a problem. Thanks for the tips wild and free.

Oh man I really hope I wont need a new flywheel too. Kinda short on the moneys at the moment. Guess I wont know until I get in there and see. Thanks all for the info and knowledge again.

Even with air brake tubing I would double check that it can be used with the diesel. I used to sell air brake tubing made by tectran and they specifically stated that it is not to be used with fuels or oil. Just as a precaution.

That price is the main reason I think I'm going to get that one. For the power it holds and being a valair I figured it was the best bang for my buck.

Would you happen to have a part number on that bushing? I will be using the stock flywheel still.

Also, whenever I do the clutch, should I just use the bearing that comes with the kit? Or should I find a bushing instead?

So when I start looking for clutches..... What is everyone's preference?? I am looking at this maybe. I have no plans for going any bigger on the power side of things than whats in my sig. I am looking to not spend to much, but I don't want to settle for a stock clutch.

I would look at Firestone kits. I used to be a dealer for them and they are great people to deal with. Looks like they list two set ups for that truck. One is a part number 2518 and the other is a 4190. The 4190 is a coil set up like hex was talking about. Its an airbag that goes inside the coil springs and usually has a fitting in the top that you can hook the lines to. With the 2518 you actually replaces the coil springs with air springs. It has height sensing abilities and all that. I would go for the 4190 for what you are planning on doing though.

I used the cardboard idea but wild and free told gave me a trick. You just cut a hole in the center, or right in front of where the fan is. Make it about 6" round and you'll be good to go.

I learned this the hard way when I was looking for a canapy. The cover looks great though!!!

I would run something a little lighter. Maybe like a 10w30. Here in grand forks it has been reaching as low as -12 with the wind chill. I still have the delo 400 15w40 and takes a good 2-3 minutes to get up to 40 psi after initial start up. I am running a mechanical oil pressure gauge so I know it's correct.

It shouldn't matter on + or -. Power in and ground out. The bulb won't care which way it goes. I tried it both ways on my isspro gauges. Didn't make a difference. Those piggy backs work great for gauges as they take hardly any power.

The old fluid is what holds the worn transmission parts together. The fluid and those parts wear together. When you replace it with new fluid, it starts breaking down those worn out parts and things fail. Once the fluid gets burnt or is old and well used, the damage has already been done to the clutch packs and the TC and valve body. You put new fluid to it and the fresh detergents "clean" everything. Starts taking things with it and causes the the failures.