Ilikeoldfords

We have had plenty of snow here as well. We havent seen any for a few days now but at any point we have at least a foot left on the ground. Some places where it drifted from the wind it is up to 2 feet. I would love to get more snow but I would be totally fine without the -40 temps!!!

As far as I know death wobble has to do with the track bar. I am not sure how the steering is set up on the 3rd gens but thats what causes issues on the 2nd gens.

Hey guys and gals. There are some funky things going on with my Isspro gauges. I have the EV1's just for reference. First off I was driving down the road today and the mechanical fuel pressure gauge just started making this loud buzzing sound. The needle bounced in time with the buzzing and followed the engine rpm rise and fall. I am running a needle valve for the gauge adjusted as per Moparmans's video so I dont think the waterhammer could have taken it out. Did my gauge just crap out just because?? Next, the pyro. Over the last month there has been an issue right when I first turn the key on. The needle will bounce around and peg to both sides of the gauge for about 2 minutes then settle out to the normal readings. This gauge does have the external amp box. It seems to follow the alternator cycling for the first couple minutes of the engine running. Is that gauge dead too? Sorry for the novel. I will also try calling Isspro this week and see what they say. Thanks for all tips!!!

If I cant find a blender pump set up I will keep using the blended stuff and probably start using some Howes Diesel Treat instead of the 2 stroke oil. It is supposed to be a good lube and anti gel.

Oh that would be a nice thing to find. I am going to start checking around for a station with a blender pump. Thanks for the tips and hopefully I can be rid of this fuel issue soon. If I bump the starter I can get the raptor to build up to a good 20-25 psi. As soon as I actually start the truck it pulls the gauge all the way to 0 psi within about 10 seconds.

Someone told me once with turbo diesels.... The lower the boost and egt's, the better the mileage. Whenever I am trying for high mileage, I just make sure I dont go over 5 psi of boost. Works like a charm. Even running at 1800 rpms, if that is where the boost and egt runs the coolest for the situation then thats where you will get the best mileage.

I have heard of going through more oil after switching to a synthetic, but also with a synthetic it should build pressure a lot quicker than with a dino. Unless your slow pressure building is because of being low on oil. I know I go through about a quart or 2 sometimes every 5000 miles. I dont really have the means of doing anything about it but I am also not worried about it. I say just tear her down and full rebuild time

I used the port on top of the oil filter for my after market gauge. Works good. I have heard that the early 2000's for the cummins is when dodge started switching sending units. The early ones were actual pressure senders, the later ones were just a pressure switch. As long as there was like 20 psi the pressure switch would throw a number up on the gauge. This might explain the change in pressure readings.

I am not sure what you mean by blender pumps. I am still all new to this extreme cold weather stuff. I know the station that I have been using have signs posted all over the place claiming their fuel is blended for -30*F. I am not sure what mix of 1 and 2 that would be though. On a side note, is it at all possible that the raptor is physically to cold to work properly? If I had any kind of means I would probably pick up a cheap gasser for the winter time because so far this whole thing kind of sucks. I remember you warning very vividly Bill

Thanks guys. I just wanted to make sure I wouldnt be hurting anything. I am also tracking down a battery draw somewhere too. Runs the truc dead almost over night. The cold doesnt help.

We havent really changed to much in temps here. Stays between -25 and -30 at night and comes up to about -10 in the day time if we are lucky. What gets me is the wind chill. At most any given time there is at least a 20* wind chill factor on top of whatever the ambient temp is. I think friday we are supposed to come up to about 15 above. That will feel nice.

I know this is a very old thread but it follows my question. I have been having trouble with my fuel gelling and my Raptor not working in extreme cold temps. We have been hanging right around -25 to -30F at night. I have been trying to get blended fuel and have been using 2 stroke oil as well. There are truck stops in town here that sell straight #1 diesel fuel. What are your thoughts on running this fuel? The only reason it is such a big deal is the cummins is our only vehicle so I need it to be reliable. Thanks for any info and tips.

Haha as soon as I learned about using a needle valve on the FP gauge I put one in for my mechanical oil pressure gauge. Like you said its very funny how most people don't even bother with it.

Yep. With those three part numbers I have you, you will be able to just pull out the isolator and adapt the rubber hose to the plastic fuel line with the needle valve in the middle.

Yes. Google these part numbers: Edelmann 744620 Edelmann 203200

This is kind of a long shot.... Did you have someone riding with you over the weekend? One time, I had a very tall buddy with me and he was trying to find more room. He ended up shoving his feet up under the blower motor and must have pushed on it just right because it stopped working. Thought my motor went bad. As soon as he got out it started working again.

Since we are on this topic, I have a problem as well. I am experiencing the exact same symptoms as Kotta is actually. The only difference is the ambient air temp this morning for me was about -12* F. I know for a fact that I my fuel is blended for -30* so I dont think it could be gelling. After letting the truck warm for about 5 minutes this morning I took off for work with about 20psi at idle. By the time I got to work it was idling at about 4 psi It didnt fluctuate at all it just very slowly dropped over time. I didnt try opening the needle valve more or anything like I should have. This is with my raptor 100. Could the pump just be too cold or something?

So you need a barb fitting on one side of the needle valve and a compression fitting on the other side. Somthing like this: http://www.sustainablesupply.com/Weatherhead-A660-Needle-Valve-Straightway-1-8-In-p/w191459.htm And: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/EDE0/744620.oap?partType=N1166&parentPartType=C0075 Then you would just need a 1/8" union to tie them together. I think the number for that would be: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/EDE0/203200/N1165.oap?ck=Search_N1165_1106176_-1&pt=N1165&ppt=C0248

My advice is to go all the way back to where the line for the gauge tee's off from the main fuel line. Start there with the needle valve and just use the small nylon tubing all the way to the gauge. Thats what most of us with mechanical gauges did I believe. This way if you ever had a problem with the tubing or the gauge you could shut the needle valve off at the source.

Ok. Sounds simple enough thanks Mike

I am thinking about doing the smarty rental from DAP. So I just load a tune, return it to stock and disconnect? Then the fast idle software will be there but everything else will go back to stock? I just want to make sure I understand what is going to happen before I get into it.

Yes. The needle valve just needs to go inline in the tubing before the gauge. Then just open it a crack, just enough to get pressure to the gauge. This will cut the water hammer from the pump but allow the gauge to work correctly.

At least start with some kind of a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. The in tank pumps are usually known to only put out like 13-15 psi at idle. I doubt it is anywhere near 20 psi to be honest.

Hahahaha!! I have been trying to turn the whole thing :banghead: Someone on CF told me thats how these knobs are on there. Is it easy to get that over off the top of the knob without messing it up?

With the tranny pulled obviously, is it hard to replace that input shaft seal? I am looking at doing my clutch in the next couple months and think I had better do that while I am in there. Should probably look at doing the rear main too.