Ilikeoldfords

If all you are getting the edge for is the gauges, save it. Just get a set of real good mechanical gauges and you wont ever have to worry about it again. The electronic senders for the monitors like that edge go out a lot and you never know if its reading correctly, whereas with the mechanicals there is almost nothing to go wrong. Get that OE lift pump off there ASAP!! Its no good. Welcome to the forum and hope to see ya around!!

Another thought... You said you had power at the glow plugs.. Could they be on a ground controlled circuit? If the relay isnt working or whatever they just arent getting ground.

I think the comp gives the most power out of all electronic programmers for the VP Cummins trucks. It does the boost fooling and allows for a pump tap to "unleash the beast". I really like it because I can get tons of extra power and not have to worry about a monitor failing or sensors failing. If you want tons of useable power and not all the extra crap that comes with it, the comp is a great choice. If you are just looking to get a little boost in power and dont want a programmer that is tapped or has to be plugged in all the time, then the smarty is a great choice.

Just a thought here.. Isnt the pressure that the injection pump is getting the most important one to see? Maybe not with the CP3? I know with my VP truck we need to see what the VP is actually getting. I am just curious as to why put the sender before the filters. I feel that the pressure there is not important....

For what you want to do I think a Smarty would be your best bet. Gives you a bit more power with some custom tuning and it also will serve as a code reader/eraser. The one thing a lot of people like about a smarty is it is untraceable once removed. It wont leave an electronic foot print so to speak. Smartys are very popular so there wont be a problem with getting support for it.

A lot of the newer brake controllers actually come as a plug-and-play set up. The controller has a plug on the back and you just buy the adapter harness to go between the truck and controller. Tekonsha has come a long way with these products and makes very good quality brake controllers.

You had best watch yourself Tom My wife is 3rd degree black belt....

Most aftermarket lift pump systems come with a relay set up. Instead of the ECM actually turning the lift pump on and off, it just switches the relay on and off. The lift pump gets power straight from the battery once the ECM switches that relay on. Takes the load of the lift pump off of the ECM, but still allows the ECM to control the lift pump.

I would agree that you probably had some fuel gelling up on ya. If you are running straight #2 anything colder than maybe 15 degrees is to cold. Check the filters and get some good antigel in there. That should fix your issue. What was your fuel pressure looking like when it died on ya?

Ya!! The -15 F actually felt really nice tonight after some of the weather we been having.

I figured it out guys!!! I brought a load tester home from work and one battery is almost a complete dud. One held at a good 10.5 volts and the other dropped straight to 2 volts. I also tried that trick that Tom brought up. It just clicked on the bad battery but it started right up on the one good battery. Thanks so much for helping on this guys. Glad I got it going again.

Are the shoes adjusted correctly? I know they should self adjust over time but maybe they are to far out of adjustment. Are there any valves that direct more pressure to the front than the back and vise versa? Maybe its stuck or something.

Well I learn something new everyday I suppose. Not quite sure I understand the concept but I am sure anything is possible.

As long as your truck came with the factory tow package, it will have the plug under the dash for a controller. Its kind of a flat 4 pin connector. I believe there are some screws along the bottom edge for the dash panels.

I have always wondered about this theory too. Why would a return line leaking have any effect on the pressure side of the fuel system? The only thing you would be out is the fuel lost in the leak but thats it. I dont buy it honestly.

The long round unit is the muffler. The short contraption before it is the resonator. At least, it should be....

Is your lift pump still run off of the ECM? Or did you install the relay to run straight from the battery? If there is a 1693 code, there has to be another code in there. Cant just have the 1693, its impossible.

What I cant understand, is why we are having all this ridiculously cold weather down here when AK hasnt gotten that cold. I have a buddy that lives in wasilla, ak and it has only gotten below 20 F like three or four times this winter. Very strange....

Probably just a resonator. There wasnt much on the 24 valves in the way of emissions.

If you can get the fuel heated back up and ungelled, your filters should be fine. That is just usually the first place the fuel will gel because its a small amount of liquid in a metal can hanging out in the wind. Get some good antigel in the tank or top off with #1 and you should be fine.

No cat on that 01. Check out some RV275's for injectors. I think DAP probably has the best deal on them. They are about a 45hp over stock so you can keep your turbo and everything else. Nice little power upgrade and usually a boost in mileage. The majority of 24v owners on this site run them and have seen some pretty amazing results.

Do you mean 20 PSI of lift pump pressure? I just want to clarify is all, thanks.

Most of the time the fuel that is sitting in the fuel filter is gelled. It will take a good rise in temp to thaw it out in any amount of time. I would dump at quart of 911 in the tank for the time being and maybe splash some into the fuel filter housing. I know the 911 isnt the best product to use but it seems to work the quickest.

Were you getting fuel in the oil before the injector swap? Or did it start when you put the new ones in?

Look, now you have gone and jinxed yourself.