Ilikeoldfords

Did this problem start recently? Do you know what gearing your axles are? I know with my camper on the back, a lot of times I have to giver a little throttle to get going but I have the 3.55's. My camper weighed in at around 3500 lbs or so. If you have the higher gearing it might just need a little throttle to get it moving, even in 1st gear.

The older battery will start pulling the new one down, especially whenever it starts getting weak. As for the AC noise, that is the real killer on these trucks when it comes to the alternators. It can still be pumping good juice but you could have a ton of AC voltage and it will mess with the electronics. Moparman has some very simple tests that you can check the alternator with.

Thanks for straightening me out here. I didn't realize the high idle wouldn't stay engaged if the ECT wasn't fooled as well. Learn something new everyday I suppose..

Up north here we have been looking at $3.14/gal for gasoline and $3.95/gal for diesel. The prices haven't changed more than one or two cents since we moved here in July. Kinda strange.

As far as I know, the set up you described at first in your post is exactly what this new design does. It is a 4 position switch. You get your normal IAT mode, MPG mode, 6 cylinder high idle, and 3 cylinder high idle. You don't need to do anything with the ECT sensor if I am not mistaken.

I don't think it would hurt the band. All it would do is tighten against the drum. I suppose it could have stretched the band a bit but other than that I don thing it would hurt a thing.

I would think it shouldn't get hot enough under the hood to hurt the paint. On a big gasser... maybe then. They run a bit hotter than these cummins engines do though.

Oh man!! I had no idea that could happen. I better go check on mine then:ahhh: I could just go look it up, but ill ask since I'm here anyway. How does a fluid damper work then? Does it have oil in it or does it get oil from the motor?

You also might try a winter front of some kind. I am just using the good old card board in front of the radiators and it seems to help a bit. Also using a block heater really helps the warm up process.

This might be a funny question, but what exactly wears out on a stock damper? Is it really something that needs replacing? I am almost at 215,000 miles and as far as I know my damper is stock. Does it make a difference if its a 2nd or 3rd gen cummins?

The lower the micron the better it filters. A 2 micron would be great to put before the VP.

Ok. I am just trying to figure out what would keep making things go bad for ya. Even if the company isn't known for making great products, 3 in a row seems suspicious... Gotta be something else acting here.

I also am running a set of the Hankook ATM's. I had a set of the mud terrain dynapros before these ones and wore them out in less than a year towing. I am very happy with the all terrains though. Nice and quiet on the highway but enough traction to get me anywhere. I really like the ride as well but that may be because I went with the 8 ply version. I have heard multiple accounts of people running over 75,000 miles and still have life left in them. They also rotated them and balanced them correctly....

Could have just been working an air bubble out or something. If it runs fine now, that would be my guess. You might also check the connections under the hood to the ECM and PCM. That's a no bus between computers if I'm not mistaken.

Glad you were able to get that issue resolved. Tally one more up for washable filters failing!!

Sounds like converter issues to me. I cant believe you got three in a row but I suppose anything is possible. Are they putting the correct trans fluid in?

I guess I would say a boost gauge is not really mandatory. I just like mine because I can keep an eye on how shes running. I also use it when I'm trying for mileage as well. I would say a pyro is necessary if you do any kind of towing or hauling. You want to keep an eye on those exhaust temps as much as possible. Don't want to melt your motor down just because you couldn't see how hot it was getting. Also, if you spring a boost leak or something isn't running right with the turbo, it will show on both the boost and pyro gauges. I also use the pyro for timing shutdown of the engine. You always want to let the EGT's cool down to about 300 degrees before shut down or its real hard on the turbo bearings.

You should not run it through the stock pump too. Some people do but it will only slow the raptor pump down. And, if that stock pump decides to quit then all it is is a restriction in the line. I think most people run a little 2 stroke oil here. I do and I like having that extra protection for the VP 44. Make sure its the ashless type of oil though. The super tech from Wally world works great. I think the mix ratio is 128:1, or about 1 oz of oil to every gallon of diesel fuel.

Whenever I am doing any work with electronics on my truck, I always unhook the batteries for this reason. Even if I'm just installing a gauge with a light or anything. Its not worth shorting something out somewhere and having to fight those headaches.

I agree that we need to make ourselves heard. If we don't, I feel the lawmakers will take it as the people don't care. We really need to be fighting back on this situation.

Welcome welcome from up north here!! hope to see ya around the forum here.

Another good test you can do to check the health of the motor is a blow by test. You hook a blowby meter to your crank case vent tube and it measures precisely how much blowby you have. I will tell you if the rings or cylinders are worn versus the head. Most diesel engine shops have one of these tools. I was able to borrow it from the local cummins shop for the day.

You just need to get the new ECM flashed for your year and model of truck. Probably $80-$100 at the dealer or cummins shop.

The old supply line is now a return line... Is that because of the AD 165 pump? What I am asking is why is it a return line now??

Most times the low pressure light wont come on until it is below 5-7 psi. Sounds like the lift pump is on its way out. Also anything under 10 psi has already done damage to the VP 44.