Ilikeoldfords

I know you just replaced the APPS but it sounds exactly like what my truck was doing when my APPS went out. about the same rpms, same conditions, and you have about the same truck and set up that I do. I didnt have any codes either. You might also shoot Chip an email over at blue chip diesel. He also breaks down the VP to the basics so you know how it works and everything. Pretty good guy. Hope this helps and good luck figuring out the problem!!

As for my pressure drop, the only thing it could be is in the tank I am thinking. I just replaced all the fuel line and fittings from the top of the tank to tank to the VP. Everything is 3/8's now. I know 1/2 would have been better but most of the fittings were all 3/8's already. The filter I put before the LP should really be big enough because it is the same filter used on most class 8 cummins truck engines. I will have to drop the tank one day and see whats going on in there. I am running a isspro mechanical gauge between the stock filter and VP, using a needle valve.

That's what I was thinking. I have a feeling that the stock hardware is in the tank. How would I tell if I have a draw straw? Everything from the top of the tank to the VP is all 3/8" or bigger. The other thing I was wondering about is the filter I have before the lift pump. It is a Baldwin bf1212. Would that cut the pressure to much?

I got my ad raptor 100 hooked up this weekend. I'm still using my 3/8's line and thinking about switching to 1/2. I idle close to 20 and it drops to about 13 at WOT. Cruising it holds at 16-17. Overall very happy with the pump. A LOT quieter than the old fass and I love having the adjustable regulator too.

That doesnt look like a real BHAF to me. It kinda looks like one of the k+n filters or something like that. Never heard of a BHAF that small.

So I went into the cummins shop and I them reflash the ECM. Apparently the dodge dealer did the PCM and not the ECM. Everything seems to be back to normal. Got the comp hooked back up and everything is well.

Changed the fluids in the tranny and transfer case. Both needed it pretty bad. Shifts so much nicer now...

Well none of the codes came back so I think they were just from whenever the shop had everything tore down. Must have had the key on or something.

When I install my new raptor, I intend to put a Baldwin bf1212 before it. What kind of micron rating would that filter have? It had to be better than the stock one I'm thinking.

Odometer but I checked it with the GPS after I had my speedo calibrated and its pretty dead on.

Just had the valves adjusted and got rid of my 100hp injectors for some 40hp ones. They are not the Bosch rv's, but they were built and tested by an injection shop in Oregon. Just did a trip this weekend and I'm pushing 22mpg's!! I was really excited because that's on my 35's with no tuner or foolers. It was a 540 mile trip on 25 gallons. Mixed city/highway.

Just ordered up my new raptor 100 gph pump. We will see what happens.

Thats a good point and I will look into it as soon as I can. Would that mess with the timing like this though? Could a sensor like the IAT or MAP be mis reading or something? I just dont know if the jumpy timing is something I should be worried about is all. Its not normal so I am kinda freaking out a bit. - - - Updated - - - For the sake of updating, I did the key trick and got these codes... -P1689 -P0382 -P0380 -P0215 -P0122 I dont know if this helps, but I will clear them and see what comes back. I know two of those are VP related and it makes me worried but I dont think they indicate a failure in the pump. What about the rest?

Everything runs quieter and smoother for sure. But, it still feels like the timing is jumpin around. One minute the valves are really noisy then the next they are silent. I still have the edge unhooked from the motor and it does it at all speeds/rpms. I just don't understand...

So I think I figured out my issues with how it was running. Since I am having all this work done and I'm getting rid of the 100hp sticks and getting some rv275s. They tested my old injectors and one was stuck open. None of the others popped at the right time or flowed at the same rate. I think the new injectors should make things a lot nicer. They also said that the stuck open injector will give symptoms of the vp going. What do ya think??

I am sure that shouldnt be an issue because you have to remove all the rockers anyway. I just kinda wanted to check with you guys to see if it had been done. I will check back with what the shop decided to do. Thanks again!!!

The shop that I took the truck to found one of the fuel injectors was getting stuck open. That would explain the surging he said. That gave me motive to drop some RV275's in:thumb1: He also found all the valve guide seals were really tore up. The head was "rebuilt" before I bought the truck and apparently they messed up. That would explain my oil consumption. The shop is trying to figure out a way to change the seals without taking the head off. They said the could put compressed air into the cylinder via the injector holes and it will hold the valves in place while releasing the springs. Anyone ever heard of this being done? I am just trying to follow up on my situation.

How are your shocks? My old ford was a 2wd but same kinda thing happened. The shocks were just wore out. Didn't do it until over 45 mph and usually not until I hit a bump. Then it sounded and felt like the front end was coming apart.

Almost any auto parts house would have one. I tapped it into the port on the top of the oil filter housing. Make sure the gauge can read up to 80psi or so. Mine was from Oreillys until I switched everything to Isspro.

I am sure you could just as long as you have the room for it. I don't know what the elbow looks like but the BHAF will take up a lot more room than the k+n filter does. Not sure about the oil pressure. I know some of the sensors aren't anything more than a pressure switch. As long as you have over 6psi, it will put a number up on the gauge. I put a mechanical gauge in mine because I don't trust the in dash oil pressure gauge.

I didn't realize the 150 had the by pass. That would pretty much influence me to. That way I don't have to change my system at all. Cool, thanks for the input and knowledge.

That sounds awesome. I will probably keep my FASS as a back up too. I wonder if there is any way to purchase the rapter pump somewhere with no accessories for it? I have the big line kit and everything already, all I need is a pump and mounting bracket. Anyone know how the rapter wires up? Would it just plug in to the two-wire cable like the FASS is now? - - - Updated - - - Well I answered my own question. XDP has raptors for pretty cheap and they give you the option to buy them without any other hardware. I can get the Raptor 150 for less than $300 and the 100 for less than $280. They both have the adjustable regulator. I would probably be ok with the 100 since I have a pretty close to stock truck. Having some RV275's put in this week:hyper:

Whoa... Well never mind then. Just looking for a pump/filter setup that is decently priced. That will definitely not do it. Will probably just build my own set up. Mount a bf1212 before a pump. Kinda leaning towards a rapter right now.

Here is the link to their page: http://fuelab.com/velocity-sales-sheet-2012

Has anyone seen or heard about the fuelab pumps? Just saw an ad for them in one of the diesel magazines. They just came out with a new "velocity" series for diesels. The pump and fuel filter/water seperator is all one unit. Looks like a pretty good deal to me. Any thoughts on it?