rancherman

Like I said ..... ask a dumb question.. and get educated! Thanks yankneck. this is why I like THIS site.. You guys are patient, courteous, and willing to 'teach'. Thanks again obiwan.

sigh.. yep you're right. Light bub is now burnt out.

ya know.... this ^^^^^ made a lght bulb go off here! a full tank would quickly build a lot of vacuum.. and sure could cause his problems!

That is the million dollar question. I went with claimed warrantee, customer reviews.. I searched high and low yesterday for the rebuilder that did ours, I would've sworn it was in Kentucky.. There's several listed in Fla, One in Tx., and Minn. Don't be surprised on warranty stuff that says "only work covered is their 'fix'" how the heck would WE prove otherwise?

just curious, but isn't a 'load' cycle every time you hit the key... and the program is sent to the prom? even then, 30k keyed events would take a lot of years edit for even more dumb question: like in our laptops, a program is just stored until needed, then it's loaded for 'work'. Correct?

whoo! RUG broke 2 bucks today. $1.96 gallon On road diesel is now south of $3 actually $2.99 gallon. Cousin in Western Iowa contracted last Friday #2 died diesel for $1.94 for most of 2015 Which means 'on road' should be ~ $2.45 by spring..... 'unless'.....

+1 on the bolting up part. I too am not sure on the TC

LOL... how 'old' a chevy?? the ones with trailing link and a coil spring??

yep... the alkyd's and some other mumbo jumbo chemistry used ESPECIALLY IN BIO raises the cetane, and lowers the btu's. *impossible to have both* Some have argued (probably theoretically) that the higher cetane ( AKA in the 'old days' ) as HIGH SPEED DIESEL. worked really well in the early diesels that were turning 24-2800 rpm going down the road. (early 70's onward) 'Grunt' engines in the ag, construction, etc did fine on the 'low speed fuel'. As displacement and technology progressed in the next 30 yrs. the typical large diesel rpm's dropped again 14-1600 is typical otr engine duty.. and the higher flame speed isn't near as critical. We now have pretty good timing management versus the old days of a 'set' curve.. and these days the efficiency differences in the fuel is pretty negligible. I'd imagine a balls-out engine that is winging 4-6000 rpm would most definitely appreciate the highest cetane possible. I read a neat article about measuring cetane. they inject the test fuel into an already pressurized vessel.. and they 'time' the instant the pressure spikes. high cetane is a quicker 'light-up'

+1 AND I'd loosen or remove the outlet from the pump too.. and let any air out quickly. Soon as you see fuel, bingo. If you just pressurize the tank without doing this, both sides of the pump will be 'high', and nothing can move. This may be really dumb question to ask.. but are they sure they took out the cap plugs.. I realize it'd be pretty hard to thread up the fittings... but sometimes something like this can be overlooked! This problem should be a 'one time deal'... since they had EVERYTHING bone dry.. next time a filter is changed, or even run out of fuel, there will at least be something in the lower parts of the lines for the next prime-up.

There is a pile of rebuilders out there that will rebuild your ecm... a little cheaper than outright exchange, but down time is longer. I did my son's dodge stealth this way... sent them the box, and about a week later had it back. I see most rebuilding services are about 450-550 for the cummins box.

years ago, shocks were on the same side. Fuel tanks were also outside the frame rails, or even behind the seat. Nowadays, suspension travel is much more than the early days, and a much longer shock is now reqd... which means they have to be put in ridiculous angles (it'd be silly for a shock tower up into the bed) So,.. now there's a fuel tank to contend with... less space for a even larger, longer shock. more torque these days means more axle wrap- frame flexing, which means chances of wheel hop is exponentially higher... so the staggered shock to the rescue. as the axle wraps up... and suddenly "unloads" as in a wheel hop... imagine the axle wrapping 10 degrees...(pinion yoke is coming up) then boing! back to 'normal'.(or even beyond 'normal') just to start up again.. Back in the old days, when shocks were on the same side, and the unloading part was un-dampened with todays staggered both directions of wrap are dampened. (slowed anyways) there are at least 3 things that are happening in an axle... Wrap- rotation of axle during acceleration or braking... Twist- axle wants to twist opposite of the driveshaft ie; rr tire is trying to lift and lr tire is wanting to go down during acceleration.. and Load- up and down motion for various load, bouncing...etc.

a lot of semi tractors are spec'd with coolant heated devices. Either inline, or in-tank. I ordered an inline type from Arctic fox about 12 days ago (still waiting patiently) to put on my winter chore ag tractor. .....edit.... Called Arctic-Fox today (12-22-14) to see where in SamHill my inline heater is! "Hang on, let me check".. "Well, it shows we have 1 in stock, we'll send it out today." Ordered it 12-03-14. So much for being prepared this winter!

Just so everyone knows here: Another factoid of our Great American 'Correctness' Cue game show music! Dept of Agriculture spent millions and millions of dollars to change the name from Rapeseed, to tadaaa.... Canola. Less offending name. Back to regular scheduled broadcasting!

I go along with the 3rd syncro's been pounded. If your disk was hanging, you'd have difficulties in all gears. When you are stopped, and in N, how quickly/ easily does it drop into 1st?... or REVERSE?? I've never run a 4500, is reverse syncro'd like the 5600? If not, THAT is the perfect gear to 'see' if your disk is hanging. If it takes more than a second or two for the trans to spin down, allowing reverse to engage... But if it's syncro'd .. should be immediate. And EASY.

lol, what's behind the cab? stake bed, cube box?

tps is for the trans.. I get that. What does the ecm 'think' about the sudden loss of it's partner? (vp44) LOL

hey, I learned something over on lostjeeps.. 'gauge self check'. I dunno if this is a whole Chrysler thing, or for earlier (late 90's stuff) but somehow there is a way to push in the trip odometer, turn the key on, release the trip odometer, and the gauges do a self check... Does this ring any bells??

chipexpress.com has tuners for the npr 3.0.... didn't see any for the 5.2 I'd imagine 'someone' has them! Ya know, I thought really hard about buying one of these 'box trucks' a few years ago. shorten up the frame, throw on a flatbed, and viola' There's my ranch puller. No 4X4 was what stopped me. many different badges out there.. GM, Isuzu, hino, FL.. FL you'd probably find it equipped with Cummins...

talk about the stars aligning today on this subject! Filling the tractor today out of my above ground tank, and apparently my tank filter is almost plugged. and the froth coming out 'looked' full stream, but it took almost 20 minutes to fill 55 gallons! I guess when the suction gets too much, it's drawing air 'somewhere'. hmmm. It's a jive old 'Fil-rite' typical farm fuel pump. I draw out the bottom of the tank, through a spin on filter, then through the pump itself. (tank filter is now sitting in the house.. warming up)...

Did you know diesel fuel is 'sticky' enough to keep a meter unit turning? a couple years ago, I pulled into a road side convenience store, to fill my tractor. They had the off road fuel out back, in above ground tank. Put the hose in and let her rip. should've been about 60 gallons to fill my tractor, but kept on chugging... and chugging, I shut it off at 50, and I didn't gain a bit in the tractor. It only sent foamy air to the tank. Thank goodness the owner was there and agreed I didn't put 50 gallons in the tractor (my gauge was still reading empty) His supply tank was dry. So, yeah. pumping air is apparently not so difficult to 'measure'!

Yep, I've used 'Battery Wip' a few times... it works, but somehow always ends up under my arms.. maybe I should not drag my arms over the batt? I'm the most prone person to handle sticky, greasy, stainy type substances on planet Earth. RTV, caulking, paint, glue, and anti seize are my worst things to handle.. I'll have it EVERYWHERE.

So, do it when the battery is cool. Or rinse with hot water. No big deal. The main thing is to get plenty on so the battery tray, and supporting sheet metal is neutralized.

mix up some baking soda in water and hose down the whole mess, fenderwells, batts... everything. won't fix the problem, but will keep corrosion at bay.

Gotcha! ok, how about this: something is goofy with the return going back to the module, ... and when the tank is packed full, the return is compromised... thus 'jacking' with the internal pressures of the cp3??? After 20 miles or so, enough fuel has left the tank things resume to normal... Makes me wonder If the return line is on the right nipple..