rancherman

I agree too. Cummins already has a great platform with their 4 cylinder, which I think has been punched out to 4.5 liters? Same upgrade as the 5.9 did going to the 6.7 Just 2 holes shorter. The bugs have been long gone worked out of that design... I believe they also have a smaller platform too.. Low 3 liters? It's more of an European thing.. but it's 'out there'. Probably not intended for road use, more stationary power.. generators, pumps, etc. But, OFFER if to the public, and you know what would happen??? Noses point to the sky. 4 cylinder is a TOY in most circles, a joke. The 4 cylinders would be in competition with the small 6's right off the bat! We KNOW better... But, too many would shun them. Toyota sold millions (ok, a lot of em) of their 4 cylinder diesels in Europe and Australia. I'd guess it was the epa that halted their advance here in the States. (light duty emissions) I'm tickled to death with my VM 2.8 diesel in the Jeep. It's a 4500 lb suv, that actually can pass with ease... and knock out a consistent 28-30 mpg. I've done the ecm reflash, deleted the egr, If I can knock out another 100-150k miles... I be really happy.

I'd double check the injection timing. Seeing it's been replaced (injection pump) Sounds a tad late. your 97 had the same hp as the SO 24 valve.. BTW! Welcome to the family!

Found this quote at the bottom of someone's sig, in yotatech.com. "Yes, I said "country." America really is a nation, but you couldn't convince those who lead the Democratic and Republican Parties of that. Both parties now see America as nothing more than an economy, a marketplace, and not a sovereign nation. They don't see you and me as citizens of this great nation; they see us as units of labor, consumers and taxpayers. Yes, I am here to collect my 238$ worth of stock from AIG. "What do you mean a free market economy doesnt apply to the rich?"

Curious if what Dodge recommends and what Cummins recommended is the same! Bosch says 3 micron for the cp3 pump in my jeep.. Some swear that mopar installed 10 microns at the factory.

The cylinder that is sizzling/gurgling is the one I'd expect that is not firing quite right. It's probably 'wet', and that 's what you're hearing. Wet from fuel, and not oil. Now, to zero in on why it's coming back through the valve, might be just a blob of wet crud that should hammer out when it (cylinder) is firing hot again... It doesn't take much of a crumb to hold a valve off it's seat. Your compression numbers are nice and even... I've sure seen higher spreads and we put a lot more hours on it before a rebuild! Safe to say you've eliminated several possibilities today!

Keep the zippers and buttons off the fresh paint man!!

Way back in this thread, PSIa and PSIg were discussed.. The differences in the 2 are the value of the 'atm' or atmosphere. PSIg is the value of pressure ' through a gauge' and this 'gauge ' measures the difference of pressure on the inside of a vessel and the outside of the pressure gauge. (or atmosphere) This 'atmosphere' can be anywhere.... standing on the moon, or Death valley. a vessel with lets say 'x' pressure will read very low when exposed in death valley, and really high on the moon, when measured though a gauge. PSIa is the value of pressure of the measured vessel, PLUS the atmosphere. This is another way of saying 'measured pressure above space vacuum'. Since 'space vacuum' isn't absolute, this is our 'standard'. 1 atm is approximately 14.7 psi, so we use the value to convert the PSIG to PSIA or vice versa, or we use the actual atmosphere value measurement for your place if you have it. Atmospheric pressure at sea level is 14.7 PSIA = 0 PSIG Mike, is this where the differences are coming from; or the 'skewing' you refer to?

I've slipped the return hose off the back of the pump (hose with the clamp) and let the pump do the work. Usually I have enough fluid around to do this a couple times back to back

Dagnabbit! for the last 2 years I thought the consensus 'here' was they sure had problems when the company was changed up.. either management or engineering... but I would've sworn it was confirmed that it was a temp deal. (units built for 6-12 months) IIRC something about the seals going bad, letting fuel into the windings??? Almost seems like you two guys (moparman, yankneck) were the ones adamant on saying certain dates of manufacturing was the cut-off, but supposedly by the end of that next year airdog had their 'stuff' back together???????? Did I miss the 'memo'??

fire up the beast sans the belt. You'll know right away if it's in that system. If it's still buzzing, then you'll know it's not part of the accessory drive Check for red dusty residue at all the bearings.. dry bearings will shed rust on the inner part of those pulleys that use them. Can you laterally move the fan tip very much? Not sure on our specs, but most fan movement should be less than 1/4 inch? Your noise come when truck is hot, cold, no difference?

All very good dialog here^^^^ Like I said, #1 for blending is $4.65, Bulk Kero is close to 7 dollars. For ME, heating up the fuel is the way to go. I grind a lot of hay during the winter, the tractor I use to run the processor is about 150 hp, and it takes just about every one of them. (5-6 gallons/hour) When running a blend, I still can get maximum speed from the engine, but fuel consumption is dang near 50% more.. ~ 8 gph. The governor has to be at the end of it's travel! Since most of my on-farm fuel is delivered from a storage facility "above ground" it can and has been delivered almost pre clouded. If it isn't, it'll be soon afterwards sitting in my also above ground tanks. Believe me, adding a treatment at this time is pretty futile. I've no heated shop, garage. Best I can hope for is a Nebraska heat wave... and stir the tanks some. I currently am running a Lucas product in my bulk tank, straight #2 and this product, and so far so good. I had it in there 3 weeks ago, BEFORE the weather went south. I have about 5-600 gallons left, and will be getting another load of fuel in within the next 2 weeks. This is 'good' for me. My fuel, My equipment, My environment. (My $$$) LOL

or the poor dude that thought they were suppositories. OK! nuff said on this!

I've had several internally regulated Delcos that refused to 'shut down'.. and eventually drained the battery... After you have the alt disconnected, wouldn't you just ohm each terminal back to the case, looking for internal shorts?

one word, Dork; VIAGRA

Had pretty good dialog with the Artic-fox boys up in Minnesota last week. I explained how and when my fuel problems are occurring. They pretty much have 2 scenarios of fuel problems- 1. engine starts ok, but soon gels up. (fuel is getting out of the tank, but is gelling up in the filters) 2. engine is difficult or impossible to start ( fuel is difficult to extract from tank, and or filters are plugged before engine is even started) My winter equipment, along with the Ram, is the first scenario. My original idea was their 'hot line' product, whereas a 4 foot section of fuel line has a heat tape running the length inside of the line. 12v. They talked me out of this, because the fuel (after starting) travels too quickly through it for any appreciable heat uptake. It's mainly for the 'first gulp'. They highly recommend their "Alternative fuels inline heater''. ummmm, starting prices of almost 1200 bucks. Next option please! I looked in their other warmers, and "linehauler" or "midranger" product caught my eye. http://www.arctic-fox.com/products/midranger153-linehauler153-models These are engine coolant warmed heat exchangers. The 2 I am looking at for my tractor and ram, have 3/8ths fuel ports, and 1/2 inch coolant ports... These have 3 levels of options: the basic heat exchanger with mounting bracket is ~ $190... then if you want it equipped with a thermostat ( maintains 78- 95 degrees) then it runs $427, and the ultimate WITH electric pre heat ( 120v), thermostat, will be $635. Here's how I am justifying it. right now, today, #1 fuel is $4.65 gallon. Last year, I spent almost $700 on 'miracle additives' lol: powerservice, howes, etc etc. I also burned an ungodly amount of fuel last winter with this 'cut' fuel. The closer I can keep it to straight #2 the better! I suspect I burned at least 500 extra gallons of this 'watered down' crap than normal. This is on ONE tractor. I DON'T expect it to work on straight #2, but If I can get by with less than 50% #1 (last year, I needed almost 75% #1 to keep em lighted, then good for me. I'd really be tickled to death if I can make 'treated' #2 work!!! Not to mention the 'more than one phone call' to the wife to pick me up off the side of the road as the ram coasted/sputtered to a stop... You guys can ridicule/chastise me for the fuel I am using.. but this is what I am dealt. All the fuel suppliers within a 100 mile radius get their product from the same terminal. I really can't shop around, so I'll MAKE THE FUEL WORK! I'm going to put the 'cheapo' one on the tractor first, to give me a base line of just how hot it's getting the fuel up to.. I can always put in a manual valve and shut down the coolant if reqd. The reason I thought I'd wait a couple weeks, was to get a firm grip on how this plays out... guinea pig I guess.. and let the 'family' either benefit or be forewarned!

I too have the Fass 02... along with a pre screen filter just before the pump. It's the same size as a G2 fram canister gas filter, but it's only a screen. (to keep junk out of the pump) You might want to put another back in place... it doesn't take much debris to lock up a pump like ours. Then you WILL have zero pressure! I suppose the ultimate way to really test your pump before re installing it, would be to make it actually pump fuel. Couple short pieces of hose, your pressure gauge, some fuel, and jumper the motor and see whatcha got for pressure. This dead-ended pump should be pretty close to 20 psi or more. (make sure you have the wires right.. otherwise it'll spin backwards) And let it pump some fuel a little before attaching the end cap (pressure gauge) All the air will be out then. I don't remember the exact number of the prescreen I have, I just did a quick search and found WIX 33253 as a 3/8ths nippled metal can, with 120 mesh screen. If this isn't exactly what I have, it's darn close! ..... I am 'fighting' this arrangement... a metal screen on the suction side of a diesel fuel system is problematic.. ( first spot for icing, wax...) But I've got the ultimate cure ordered! This is going to be a new thread here in about 2 weeks! Stay tuned!

Cool! P3 is on the way! got the dodge harness with it, should make it a breeze. Apparently, all Dodge Rams from 95-09 ALL came with that 'splice' under the dash, regardless of tow package or not. Should be the easiest part of this flatbed project! $144 delivered to my door. Man, I wonder what it'll be like..... being able to stop! All three of my gooseneck trailers have never been energized.. so they could be considered brand new brakes!! (rusty as heck too) Should be interesting the first time out!

For me, the best one to date is: " I didn't even know Jeep offered a diesel". Straight from the mouth of the service manager, Chrysler-Jeep-Dodge dealer.

IF you find internal damage, then you'll really want to test your injectors then. On the otherhand, the old injectors may have done the damage, and the current injectors are innocent!

One or both abs sensors in the front axle are bad. Mine has been this way for 2 years. Yep. on the 'to do' list. I've read where it's best to replace as pairs. There is enough differences in originals, aftermarkets, that they have different 'values', and won't play well with each other. It takes a few miles/minutes to reset the computer after the fix. Don't freak out until then! When I start my truck, the brake system goes through it's diagnostics, and about 2 seconds later, 'pop'. the brake/abs light comes on. I suppose if you replaced the bad sensor with an identical one (brand) then you could get by with 1 side only.

I believe it did come with the tow package. The wiring harness going to the rear has basically double the wires.. "parallel circuits" 1 set for the truck itself, 1 set for the trailer plug. (plus the brake controller wire ) This 'plug' you speak of, is a free hanging plug, or something bulkheaded? Been eyeing the Tekonsha P3 controller..

well, if this is any help; it went from 'maybe a miss, not sure which cylinder' to a DANG, IT'S SHAKIN THE TRUCK APART' type symptoms. It won't make it any easier on the wallet to fix, but in a weird way, it makes it easier for 'me' (psychologically) to dive deeper into an engine. Can anyone hear the "mission impossible' theme playing in the background? The man needs his truck for Thanksgiving next week... The VP, there is 3 modes???? normal 6 cylinder, 4 cylinder, and 3 cylinder??? I was aware of the 3 cylinder mode. And the solenoid is needed to operate each impulse for 'normal' delivery??? Dumb. Very dumb. If they needed ANY REASON for shutting down any amount of cylinders,, they should've used the solenoid to BLOCK, OR REDIRECT INTERNALLY those particular cylinders' impulse. "NORMAL" should've been 'nothing energized'. I'm sure the path they took was the cheapest. Ah, heck, no sense on debating this now, on a pump design that is 16 years old...

Hauled some cattle home yesterday with the new flatbed. Had to shorten up the gooseneck post on the trailer. The ball is sitting about 4-5 inches taller than the original one. I sure don't miss the rattling of a self-destructing box! Anyhow, I'm going 'full out' on this, (installing a new brake controller too) This truck came with a controller, which for the life of me, couldn't make it work. Sooo, out it came. (8 years ago) I have an eye on a couple models to install. So, when I wired up the flatbed and trailer harness, I went ahead and hooked up the light blue wire for the brake actuator circuit. Back half of truck is now done. Where do I look for the front end of this light blue wire? It should be under the dash somewhere.. is there a plug in, or even a dangling wire labeled "trailer brake"? 8 years ago was a long time, and I'm sure I didn't 'label' it for future reference! For hooking up a controller, I remember there being a owner supplied wire to a dedicated 12v supply, then I need to tap into the brake light circuit, ground, and last but not least, the wire sending juice back to the trailer.

ah! gotcha!

Usually what happens now is..... a major heat wave. Supposed to be back to mid 40's by Saturday here!!! whoo!