rancherman

You remember if the rod that held the bottom stopper had signs of erosion/corrosion that separated the disk? or just a poor riveting from factory? I'm like mike, I usually replace a pump, fix a radiator, or hose, seems like at least 1 time a year.. and I always put new coolant in.. I'd think for the 'normal' people, (where nothing ever breaks, leaks...) LOL I'd test every other year. (50-75k miles)

before I bought my IR temp gun, I'd just wet a finger, and go right down each cylinder immediately after a cold start. It only worked for a couple minutes, cause even a dead cylinder will get the manifold hotter than 212. I'd usually find 5 cylinders that would "psssst' under my finger, and the 1 dead one would only leave a wet fingerprint. About half my engines use a manifold that shares pairs of cylinders for the exhaust, which makes it even tougher to isolate Highly unscientific, but it gave me a clue on where to start!

well, new, clean oil revitalized the seals for now?? (if that's where it was going!)

Yah! wasn't today a kick in the teeth?? additives work tons better when put in the fuel loooongggg before needed! But like I've stated before, my fuel is coming from above ground tanks, and it's cold!!! The fuel you guys are getting is much warmer.. and possibly gives the additive a chance to work! I remember last year, first week in Dec!!! Only thing in this part of the State was spark ignited engines!

I just found a pic of a cutaway http://image.dieselpowermag.com/f/tech/1204dp_inside_the_bosch_cp3_injection_pump/35563481+w620/1204dp_04+the_heart_of_common_rail_injection+cp3_pump_diagram.jpg looks like the 'cam' fires all three at the same time. Man, I was wrong at assuming there was a simple single eccentric rolling the 3 plungers in sequence. Is there any relief at the end of the rail? pounding liquid down a blind hole seems.. dangerous?? How the heck would you ever bleed air out, just run it until the air is hammered out through the injectors???

short answer? Plenty! If it (oil) winds up on the compressor side, that is where you get 'runaway' situation... The engine is getting enough 'fuel' from the oil vapor and is chugging along. When it pukes into the turbine side, it's blue smoke galore. Turbos have a seal on each side, Usually it's the HOT side that goes away first.. heat cooks em down faster there. As seals get stiff, worn, or otherwise close to 'going south'.. a lot of times they'll only leak when pressure is gone. Upon repressurization, they'll snap back to attention. Might be what's going on with Mikes here.

^^^^ kinda how I look at it too!^^^^ Our jeeps do have a timing mark on the cp3's pulley, but ya know, a 3 piston pump that has 120 degrees separation really doesn't have too much 'spike' anyways!.. interesting on when you move your pump one way or another, you get some differences on 'noise'. You suppose this is the hydraulic harmonics... or you think it's the actual way the engine is responding?

Cool, So, there is no 'want' or 'need' to have the plungers correspond to injector events? Some on the jeep site are sayin the 'spike' created at the plunger is good when a injector needs it... Another question! is there a 'dampner' in the fuel rail, to smooth out these impulses? (on the Cummins)

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone of you can answer a simple question! As you may know, I have a Jeep crd diesel. It's pumped with a cp3 for it's common rail. anyways, there is a heck of a battle on lostjeeps.com about whether or not to 'time' the injection pump during timing belt r+r. ......... some say, rail pressure is rail pressure... others say they want to 'time' the impulse to injector pulses. Which brings me to this point! Are the cp3's a compounding pump, whereas each of the 3 plungers feeds the next one to build up pressure... or are they singly supplying the rail? are these pumps set up so there is 1 revolution of pump per 1 revolution of engine? (3 pump pulses to 3 required injection events)??

Time to wire!!! Got the body harness sorted out, and labeled.. Bought a new 7 flat terminal body plug. This one seems tougher than the last one. Now I need to wire in both the flatbed and the trailer plug.. I got my schematic all ready to roll! Last month, I bought some crimp on connectors for another project, they had heat shrink tubing already in place.. Nice thicker type tubing. All I can find for 'just tubing' is some pretty thin stuff, much thinner than what was on those terminals. Anyone know what I'm talking about? I'm just guessing, but I'd say the wall thickness was maybe 1/16th, pre shrink.... whereas the hardware store stuff is closer to geesh, 'paper thin'.. I'll solder and heat shrink.. then tape it all together.

I've seen crazy things in vehicles... especially this time of year! Just for giggles, check your intake from outside air... to airbox, and make sure it isn't packed with varmints/nests. Is your rig always been like this, or has this something that came along recently?

I meant to say, 10-50 degrees isn't really that far out of the 'normal', even in a perfect engine.. A completely dead cylinder will make hot air just from the compression, (as long as you don't have a valve issue) and will be around 100 degrees cooler than a live firing one. (at idle) I think you're on the right track.. fuel delivery.

both ends will be cooler. they are not 'sharing' heat from another cylinder. Every 6 cylinder I've ever tested does this... running good or not. * this is really evident for initial warm up* They (ends) take longer to build heat. Even after fully heated, they like to be somewhat cooler. Most 'dead' cylinders I've gunned, were usually 100 degrees or more cooler than 'good' cylinders.

Are you going to use the airdogs regulator, or use the fuel boss regulator? Don't forget ONE more line! "the return to tank from regulator"...

Don't change a thing! LOL

Good read^^^^^ Diesel4life! Kinda backs up all the posts I've been trying to post on here for the last couple years. Mike, Dork, both you are correct on the circulating part. Even my big ol dumb cummins 903 will heat up the fuel big time. I'm talking 200 gallons of warm fuel within an hour or so. I've never seen a tank totally gelled up. It's ususally along the surfaces of the tank, and lines. a good circulating pump such as most are using for their vp's should keep it stirred up... plus whatever heat it picks up along the way.

you are correct on the 'jet a' and kerosene comparison. very close cousins. When my son was in Iraq and Afganistan, he said they had 1 fuel tank. it filled the Humvee's, tanks, helicopters, generators. He also said injection pump replacement on those hummvees was a constant battle. (dry fuel) Funny story, I flew my son to San Antonio in late September to drive home my new Jeep diesel. He said when he filled it at the first fill up, the fuel smelled a little different than what we get up here. "fresher"??? My algae problem is closely tied with the suspended H20 issues, tied with my above ground storage tanks. Every day, my fuel will heat up in the sun, cool off at night. my tanks are 'breathing' air in and out every day... and eventually, there will be a little stripe of water on the bottom of the tank.. growing algae. First cold snap, it breaks loose, (or when the fuel truck dumps in a new load and stirs it up) and immediately plugs the filters. Below ground storage guys don't have near the problems. For you, I'd keep it #2 all year, and throw in a product for 'winterization'. Powerservice, Howes.. should work well for you.

Diesel fuel works good too as a flush. Ya know, it'd take what, 12 minutes to pop the oil pan off and really KNOW if you have it clean and you would have a new gasket to boot! roll the panless engine up on it's butt, (bellhousing) and spray your rinse all up and down too. Where'd ya get your 4bt? Ever since Wonderbread went 'south', there's been a flood of these. seems like most of them were spec'd with either a TH400 or Muncie 4 speed. I see yours has the rotary injection pump. My neighbor has a 4bt tied to a Chrysler 727 trans, stuffed down in a chevy 1500. He averages 27 mpg.

Late injection timing will also cause high temps. Usually accompanied with black smoke.

One thing is for sure.... everybody has different opinions on what to use! Fuel quality can and does vary by region.. what I've found that doesn't work, and does work, may or may not do the same for you! I have suspended water problems, as do quite a bit of ULSD users.. (everyone now) The pipeline that serves the terminal, which then distributes to all the local dealers.... regardless of brand name.. There is no escaping the water plug they use to separate different batches coming up the line. Lord help the guy caught with a tank of biodiesel when it hits 0.. or even had a tanker delivered with solidified residue from contaminated transports. I actually took the 1 inch filter off, and it still wouldn't run out the nipple. bio is a wonderful summer fuel! Not to mention the final process to remove the last traces of sulfur! It's a hydrolization process.. basically a water scrub. Since I've been burning ulsd 4-5 years now, I've had to increase my blend to a minimum of 50/50. Before that, I was getting by with a maximum of 50/50.

one caveat to the blended fuel.. is lower power and poorer fuel economy. The btu's are really cut with the addition of #1. And running a conditioner will cut into the lubricity thing too.. (benzene,acetane, etc) I believe #1 also has a poorer lubricity to it also. sigh, wintertime sucks for us fuel oil burners. Some are 'getting away with' straight #2, and gobs of conditioner.. or help with a tank heater.. which helps with the fuel consumption, and power... but then there's the lubricity thing. ( I'd add a little more 2 stroke then) Either way, it's going to cost more to run in the winter... if you expect to make it home!

I spec out my fuel for the 'herd' as 50/50 blend. And still have to keep a 300 gallon barrel of straight #1 for the really nasty stretches. Where do you call home? Even at the truck stops, you'll have to search for the blended pump. Most truckstops offer straight #2 all winter, and if you want the blended stuff, you either do it yourself in-tank, or they'd have one pump with what they 'claim' to be winterized/blended. (notice the sarcasm here) I don't know about what most truckers do, but my cousin runs #2 in the main tank (drivers side) and #1 in the curbside tank. He'll start it up on #1, and when the tank heater has run enough, he switches to the #2 side. He says 10-12 miles does the trick. My rule of thumb for my off road stuff, and even the Ram, is 50/50 blend for all winter, and throw a little more #1 in for the real nasty blasts.. (stretches below 0 for several days) I really hate walking! This is when I really don't miss with adding 2 stroke) I'd really not recommend any type of bio diesel for wintertime! If you're south of mason Dixon line.. no problem! I'll step on my toes here and claim this: I'd rather run a blended (proper amount) of #1 and #2 before throwing gobs of 'conditioner' (which never works until you are 2 or 3 times the recommended rate) Too many people confuse 'winter blended' with 'winter conditioned'. The quik trip owner who throws in a gallon of 'conditioner' per tanker load of #2, and claiming it's 'winterized'.. should be hung by the cohone's..

......it does make a difference!

Mike, what is the oil fill cap mod ya got there? (line attached)?

Only thing about the receiver... that's gonna be a real knee capper! Nice addition, but is there a way you could have it telescope flush when not in use? or you could have the front face flush with the bumper, and would then have to go behind to pull the pin to remove the hitch... The other 2 ears... those for tow bar?