Marine

So you mean to the v2 I guess?

But I get turbo surge with the Mach 1.6 and the DDP95s I have. HTT said that my turbo is rated for 50hp more than stock and suggested no more than a 50 hp injector. I have my duration way down to 1200 now. Thoughts?

With this info maybe I should try going back to the stock injectors and see the result is with the HTB3 (65 exhaust) I have.

I will put a 1000 tune on when I get time. In the meantime I have a 2000 series but I did set the mins to 20 and 30 (I'm assuming 20 is the first min on the list and 30 is the 2nd min on the list in the Pulse), and moved the stretch to 1200.

Thanks @Quadzilla Power. I think I am going to go to a smaller injector (75hp) and lower the pump stretch. I'm not sure how best to adjust the Pulse with my current setup; any suggestions? I generally run on the 2000 series tunes on level 1-5.

Sorry, a part of your message is missing. Ship it to Quadzilla? Or I can upgrade my Adrenaline using the installer package? Where is that located? Either route I will still need the iQuad wireless module, correct? iQuad BT Module Thanks!

Michael, I looked on their site but can't see a way to upgrade to the V2? Will it work with the Adrenaline screen or will I need to upgrade to a phone/tablet with BT? Thanks!

Hi Gents. If I can hop in here with a question along the same topic. I have an HTB2 62/65/13ss with a Pulse Adrenaline and Mach 1.6 injectors. Essentially I want to lower my EGTs because I will be giving the truck to Dad and I want it more user friendly so he doesn't melt anything. If I move down to RV275 injectors (or even 60HP injectors) what will the result be? I called HTT and they suggested moving down in injector before I move down to an HX35. What are your thoughts? @Quadzilla Power maybe I can lower the EGTs by a lower injection pulse? Thanks!

Hi. Do you have a pic of the connector and the pins? Thanks!

It is exactly like that. At first it kind of irritated me because it wasn't working as it should, but I like it now.

This is a great idea. The latch on mine does not lock any longer, so I have to have it strapped if I want to lift the console and use the middle seat.

I replaced my blower motor about 4 yrs ago and all speeds except low work. I didn;t think about replacing the resistor to fix that. However, I like the lowest setting to be an actual off position.

I don't have a draw straw, but when my light comes on I have 8-10 gallons in the tank.

That is a good idea; I will check my fender wells too, as I know one is loose. Thanks for that tip!

Mine is a 70. It's held 4 qts for about 11 yrs now ;-)

These guys? http://www.modulemasters.com/ They don't look like they fix modules lol.

Thanks!

How much was it? Thanks, Mike

Dave, after about a month went by after I replaced my shocks I had a clunk. I had the shock place send me new shocks under warranty and when I went to put them in, I noticed one of the 3 nuts that hold the shock tower on to the top of the spring was loose. It was on the inside of the engine compartment so I couldn't see it from looking from the tire side. Tightened it up and it has been good since. I do have another rattle under the dash I still have to find, though....

Mike, what was the troubleshooting you did to figure out it was the cables? I have a shop last week telling me it is the ABS module for a ridiculous amount of money and I asked if they checked the ABS Sensors....they said their troubleshooting lead them to the module because power is going in but not coming out. Thoughts? Thanks, Mike

I just did mine with Amsoil LongLife 75w-90. 4 qts in front with stock cover and 4 qts in the rear with the Mag Hytec and brought it to halfway up the dipstick. I will be double checking it in a day or 2. I had 75w-110 in the front previously.

2 yrs ago I had my bands adjusted and after that I had a terrible surge. I figured he must have really jacked it up, but before I had the shop do it, I spoke with the tech and he sounded very knowledgeable in what he was doing. So the surging continued intermittenly. I finally got around to checking all the grounds and low and behold the cables on the neg battery posts were so loose I could turn them with 2 fingers. So I tightened them up good and the surge went away. I figured he trans tech must have removed the cables to work on the truck and didn't get them tight enough. About a yr goes by and it starts surging again and it is 2013 in early fall. I check the neg battery cables again but they are still tight. By this time my batteries are 7 yrs old and my truck has 290,000 miles on it. Batteries were weak turning the engine over when the temperature was getting low, so I replaced the batteries with new ones. Once I did this the surge went away. I tested the old batteries and they had about 330 CA's in them. On a side note I just replaced the original alternator last week.

Good point! I will try it with my Greenlee CM-1350. Standby.... - - - Updated - - - I checked it with my Greenlee and it is at .3 VAC; that makes me feel better. Also 14.4 VDC.

Did you get a good meter and see what the reading is?