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I replaced my power steering box 6 months ago with a rebuilt box  from Napa,  . Last  week I took  my truck to an alignment shop because I had excess play in the steering. They diagnosed the problem as tie rod ends and excess wear in the drag link. I have  ordered all the defective parts. They also noted that the gearbox pressure is off left to right .Is this something that can be adjusted by the  pitman shaft adjustment screw on top of the box, or should I just return the box to Napa while it is still under warranty? The truck drives good and I don't notice much difference in the steering right to left or left to right. Ball joints were o.k Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks.

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Blue top steering gears is supposed to be the best around from what I hear. Best do it right cause new trucks cost too much now. And from what I hear.... the newer, the more problems it has.

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Got to ask though with all these custom steering boxes (redhead and similar) why is it I'm getting ready to cross a quarter of million miles and no issues with a stock box? Kind of like asking why am I going to cross a quarter of a million miles with NV4500 and no 5th gear nut problems.

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My original   box started leaking started leaking from the pitman shaft seal @ 65k the bearing had excess play @ 85K.  I got this box from Napa less than 6mo. ago. I think these suppliers are getting their rebuilt boxes from unreliable re builders. I was told by Napa that they didn't use Cardone  boxes because of there bad reputation .Mike  I guess you just lucky , maybe living in southern  AZ. with no power steering fluid  cooler has something to do with it.      

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My original   box started leaking started leaking from the pitman shaft seal @ 65k the bearing had excess play @ 85K.  I got this box from Napa less than 6mo. ago. I think these suppliers are getting their rebuilt boxes from unreliable re builders. I was told by Napa that they didn't use Cardone  boxes because of there bad reputation .Mike  I guess you just lucky , maybe living in southern  AZ. with no power steering fluid  cooler has something to do with it.      

 

That means what...??? Do you realize that all summer here we've been reaching 100*F minimum and topped out at 117*F this summer. I don't have power steering cooler either. Heck my last day of work in Riggins, ID it was 108*F when I left town at 5pm.

 

I still hold to my every 30k fluid flushing... No leaks or issues as of yet.

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That means what...??? Do you realize that all summer here we've been reaching 100*F minimum and topped out at 117*F this summer. I don't have power steering cooler either. Heck my last day of work in Riggins, ID it was 108*F when I left town at 5pm.

 

I still hold to my every 30k fluid flushing... No leaks or issues as of yet.

 

348k on my oe box. Loosing a track bar and lower ball join though. Replaced those about 100k ago. Looks like I might have to do it again soon.

I guess it doesn't mean anything, just trying to analyze the reason why the seal and the bearing went out. The first time I flush my p.s system was @ 50K. It seems to be getting hotter all over the the  west

 

Edited by hodag56
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The most I can say is a break down of the power fluid (lubricity of the fluid) from the heat. Some say that synthetics tolerate heat better that petroleum based but again I'm running 250k miles with petroleum based fluid change every 30k miles. The other thought is possibly over sized tires placing more stress on the steering box. Like my truck came with 265's and I went undersized 235's to deal with a few different issues.

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The most I can say is a break down of the power fluid (lubricity of the fluid) from the heat. Some say that synthetics tolerate heat better that petroleum based but again I'm running 250k miles with petroleum based fluid change every 30k miles. The other thought is possibly over sized tires placing more stress on the steering box. Like my truck came with 265's and I went undersized 235's to deal with a few different issues.

My wheels and tires have always been stock. I ran BFG's for awhile when I was doing a lot of hunting ,now I'm running Michelin load range E LT 265/7R16 RLE

because I'm not doing much off road driving. I have never beat my truck but I have had have 4wheeled it in some pretty nasty rocky places. I didn't use synthetic

fluid either but I may go to it next time around. I do think that flushing and changing fluid @30K is a very good preventative measure. Thanks for your comments

Art

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Got to ask though with all these custom steering boxes (redhead and similar) why is it I'm getting ready to cross a quarter of million miles and no issues with a stock box? Kind of like asking why am I going to cross a quarter of a million miles with NV4500 and no 5th gear nut problems.

 

 

Mike has no problems with his box or his nuts..................... :lmao2:  :lmao:  :bolt:

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Mike has no problems with his box or his nuts..................... :lmao2:  :lmao:  :bolt:

 

TMI !!!

 

your going to have to confirm that with Mike .I'm not touching that.HA HA

 

I'm not going to let you either !!! :nono:

 

:lmao::lmao2:

 

Still funny as all hell. Seriously my steering gearbox is still absolutely perfect no sloppy steering and no leaks. No problems with my 5th gear nut too. Even 200k miles on the VP44 and still going.

 

1/4 million milestone has been reached!

post-1-0-06430700-1438869129_thumb.jpg

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Yeah maybe... Sloppy job.

 

Pull the pitman arm off. Then remove the sector adjustment cover. Now push the output shaft back up through the top. Remove any clip holding the outer seals. The using a drift or punch knock both seals there should be a outer dust seal and a inner hydraulic seal. Assembly will be reversed. The bad part is you need to work from the top of the box. I know from my truck the veiw and access is rather limited so you might have to remove the box just to do the seal. If you that far it really easy to rebuild and re-seal.

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