Lots of Codes, where to start

[Aggie08]

To start off I replaced my clutch to a South bend 13" organic single about 4 weeks ago. Although i do not think this is related to my problems it was the start of everything.

After clutch was replaced i had an antifreeze leak the day after with i found to be the water pump, fixed that issue with a new pump. Antifreeze was draining onto the belt which spread it over the engine bay (yippy...)

Then came the dead pedal, 3 years ago i had replaced apps wit Timbo apps, so i email him and he sent me a new one and it solved the problem for 20 miles. then back to interment dead pedal. I have had one drive home where everything ran great and had not one problem (check engine light not on, no dead pedal) then it was back to messing up next morning. 

I have wire wheeled a few grounds but do not think I got all of them. ECM going bad, Alternator AC noise, just looking for opinions. 

Codes 

PCM-1693

ECM- 0216, 0121, 0222, 0122, 0217, 0382, 0237

 

I know this was all over the place but trying to give best picture, let me know of any questions. 

 

I did just unplug Edge Comp and check engine light turned off

[CSM]

For starters... 

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins

Lots of codes, not a glaring pattern in them, but none of them are good.  

So, for clarification, when you unplugged the edge comp and reconnected the OEM connectors, the check engine light went out?  Also, you do have confirmation of fuel pressure?

Edited January 10, 2016 by CSM

[Mopar1973Man]

Edge Comp and the P0237 is problem more than likely the boost fooler failed in the Edge Comp.

Double check your grid heater relays make sure the wires are all attached. That is the P0382...

APPS sensor appears to be junk. P0121, P0122 and P0222.

Then a timing error P0216 on the VP44. What's your fuel pressure?

[Aggie08]

Been trying to go throught the codes and then read code/ take it for a drive down the bock. Have not changed anything and its more of a sputter and some white smoke, truck temp shows around 170 when that happened. 

 

So i could take the comp completely out to see if that changed anything?

From what i can tell the grid heater relays look good, the bracket under the battered was loose but that was it. (not grounded i assume)

Timbo sent me a new APPS, think it would go out in a few miles? 

Fuel pressure will be determined after i get my gauges in (ordered them after Christmas).

[Mopar1973Man]

I would park that truck till you can verify the fuel pressure. I just got done rescuing a truck yesterday where his fuel pump would just stop pumping doing exactly what you say low power and white smoke. You need that fuel pressure gauge like now!

Do you have a error code reader that can reset codes? You might consider reseting the codes and re-test drive it again and see if the codes are real for the APPS. Might have to ohm test between the ECM and APPS. Again jump over to the error code page and do the diagnostics to verify.

Yeah you can unplug the wiring and hook up stock to see if the P0237 code stays away.

Grid heater relays get there ground from PDC then to the battery ground as seen in the wiring map.

Edited January 10, 2016 by Mopar1973Man

[CSM]

I agree with MoparMan.  I wouldn't start it until fuel pressure was verified...

Can you describe the dead pedal?  does it go to idle and the pedal does nothing or does the truck shudder?  

[Aggie08]

I did park the truck and have a work truck to drive so  I am good there. I do not have a scan tool but know a guy that might help me out if i can get it to him. 

Those grounds were apart of the wire brushing I did and know of good contact on those. 

I will update when i have a pressure reading on fuel. FYI when i bump the key my pump runs for its normal 4-5 seconds, then when key is turned off it will run for maybe 10 seconds (this has not been normal for the 5 years i have had it on)

 

 

[dripley]

Normally the pump should run somewhere near 25 seconds after the key bump as long as the key is left in the on position. The time frame does vary a little from truck to truck. The pump should turn off if you turn the key off early. 

[Buzzinhalfdozen]

If I bump the starter I can shut the ignition off and take the key out but the pump will still run for 20ish sec. 

[dripley]

Mine shuts off about a second or less after the key is off. Maybe that is different from truck to truck also. Is yours triggered by the ECM?

[Buzzinhalfdozen]

Yep the ecm triggers a relay. Must be a programming difference unless my truck is the only one that does this?

[dripley]

Well the OP's seems to do it, so puts me in the minority for now.

[Mopar1973Man]

12 minutes ago, Buzzinhalfdozen said:

Yep the ecm triggers a relay. Must be a programming difference unless my truck is the only one that does this?

There is no relay... Lift pump is direct wired to the ECM.

[Buzzinhalfdozen]

7 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

There is no relay... Lift pump is direct wired to the ECM.

Stock, yes there's no relay but I added one with the Fass pump. 

[dripley]

Same here on my AD. Is your AD not wired thru a relay Mike?

[Mopar1973Man]

My bad... I was think stock only...

Yes "most" aftermarket pump do have a relay. Now like the Raptor series for direct replacement of stock it does NOT have a relay. So be aware some do have extra relay and some don't. Like AirDog 100/150 and FASS 100/150 both relays.

[Aggie08]

Any reason for the change in the lift pump running after shutdown? and for the length of time after?

[dripley]

I always thought the pump should shut down at key off since that should kill power to the ECM. That is providing the the lift pump is connected to the ECM lead either thru a relay or not. Duration of the run time does seem to vary from truck to truck. I was hoping more would chime in and tell us there experience. Maybe the relay is just hanging up a little. I dont think this issue is your main concern however.

[Mopar1973Man]

All based on software design. Mine will run on for a short span after the key is turned off on a starter bump. Now just shut the key off on a normal run it will shutdown instantly. The normal start and run mode is a safety design so if the vehicle is in a accident the all fuel pump are shut down instantly. This prevents a lift pump feeding fuel to possible fire.

Edited January 12, 2016 by Mopar1973Man