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Hard brake line behind fuel tank


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Hey all, 

I got my truck inspected this past Friday and they told me that my hard brake line that runs behind the fuel tank isn't gona last much longer. My dad recommended just leaving the old piece in and fishing a new one through, and I read it quite a few guys doing that on CF. Does that sound like a decent idea? Anyone have any ideas they think are better? Also, I read a lot about this new copper/nickel alloy brake line and guys are saying it's great to work with and doesn't rust. Any opinions on that stuff? And what size are the fittings on that line? I believe the line is 3/16 but I don't know the fitting/thread size....

thanks!

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I read about the stuff 3 or 4 years ago, if this is the lines you dont need a bender for. If that is the case it seemed to be a pretty good product. You do need a special flaring tool and the name of it alludes me at the moment. It did seem like a good product to me at the time.

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I can say that you might as well drop the tank to do this ( I don't even recommend dropping the tank for a draw straw install so you know I am serious)  

 

It is a ROYAL PAIN IN THE A$$ to feed a new line through there with the tank in place. 

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I appreciate your input guys. I have access to a double flaring tool so no issues there. Never used it before but it sounds like it's easy with that copper alloy line. As far as dropping the tank, I really don't want to either. I don't ever like to mess with fuel lines if I don't have to. What about going up and over the tank along the frame?

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Personally, I would keep the brake line in the frame rail so nothing can ever hook the brake line and break it open. Myself I would drop the tank to get the old line out so it creating a rub issue and also so the new line is fastened in place to prevent rubbing of the line on the frame or other objects. 

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:iagree:While dropping the tank might be distasteful the install will be better. Maybe there is enough slack in everything you can just drop and slide it to the side a little to access the area. Cant remember how much slack mine had.  

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Well I guess you guys are getting me talked into it. If I am moving the tank at least partly out of the way, should I get a new stock preformed line from the dealer? Or make it myself? Also should I replace it all the way from the front fender well where it originates? Or just make a union after the tank? Btw does anyone the the fitting/thread size?

Edited by leathermaneod
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The best thing I can say is take a tubing cutter and cut on end off and take it with you to get the line. I would just buy a chunk of line and replace as much as I could. If you can get a reasonable price for the full replacement I go that way about it.  

 

A site I ran across...

http://www.classictube.com/prebent-tubing

 

As for the tank drop I typically use two ratchet straps and just unscrew the sender ring so the sender can rise up as the tank comes down. Best if the tank is nearly empty. You can pump the fuel out if you have as AirDog or FASS into 5 gallon cans or buckets. 

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Well just figured I'd update this with my progress. After looking at just how much line is behind the tank there was no question in my kind that it had to be dropped, so we got right on it. So far the tank drop was the easiest part of this job, even though it's about half full lol. We just put a jack under each end. Hardest part was getting the darn return line quick connect fitting to release. I'm hoping it's not damaged enough to keep it from sealing up! Anyway got the tank down and the old lime out with no problem. Then decided the hose that goes to the axle needed replaced too. Should be no big deal right? Well the brake lines that come out of the block at the end of the hose and go to each wheel would not come off without a fight. They were original lines but looked in perfect shape. But the nuts wouldn't turn on the lines and so ruined the lines. Then I figured no big deal I'll replace them too. Well the hard line would not seperate from the hose that goes to the caliper. So I had to call up autozone and get new caliper hoses too. Well autzones telling me that they can only get the driver side hose! Wth?! Well fortunately my buddy was sitting right there and said "I'm pretty sure both sides are the same...." autozone says no they are different lengths and the end at the caliper is different. I go to the truck and check, they are 100% exactly the same. So now I'm waiting for hoses to get everything put back together. Another "simple" project that got blow way out of proportion smh 

Edited by leathermaneod
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I have not looked at the copper nickle in a while but when I was looking it looked like most economical way to go compared to the preformed hardlines and appeared to be pretty good product. Are the double flares difficult to do?

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I'm not sure if it is most economical or not, it was $50 for a 25' roll at autozone. I saw it online for about $30 though. I haven't worked with it too much yet, but I practiced making a few flares. It took some practice but seems pretty easy. Seems very easy to bend this stuff by hand. I'll give you a better idea once the job is done. So far the worst part is the fact that all the fittings are different. It's one size one each end of the long run that goes from front to back. Then it's a different size on the lines where they go into the block on the axle. Then another size at the hoses. It's really been frustrating! I'll try to list all the sizes when the job is done

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I did find this on Amazonhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B01801G45A/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00651OAVS&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=3ES09YQK9V5P8149FASW. 25' with an assortment of fittings for less than $40 free shipping.. I dont know if they are what is needed since I have not researched what is needed fitting wise. I still cant seem to find a prebent kit. Even the link Mike posted did not show a kit for my ext cab long bed. Even then it kept showing me SS braided line and not hard line. Unless i am not looking it up right. What hard lines I found in the past were in the hundreds of dollars.

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Hey guys, 

job is done and, fingers crossed, no leaks yet. First off, as for pre bent steel, the dealer told me they could get it for $50. How it would be shipped, I'm not sure because it's probably about 12' long. As for this copper nickel alloy, it seems pretty nice. Very easy to bend, seems pretty easy to double flare after a little practice. No issues with kinking. Only downside I noticed was that it has a tendency to want to twist as you tighten your fitting if it's not held well and perfectly straight. Not a huge issue since it's so soft, but I did my best to keep it from twisting because I'm sure it begins to weaken it, but I couldn't totally prevent it. You can also make it less likely to twist by trying to clean up any burs from the flaring. I was getting a good one on the outside of each flare due to the seam on the flaring tool. Just had to try and clean them off with a file then lube things up with brake fluid. Now fitting sizes. The two ends of the long run are the same standard thread 3/8-24 inverted not bubble 3/16 line. Where it gets weird is on the rear axle. At the end of the hose that goes from hard line to middle of the axle there is a block. The lines that go to each side come out of it. Those fittings are M11x1.5 thread 3/16 line. My local stores did not have a fitting like that except for a bubble flare so I had to reuse the old ones. Next weird thing, I could not get the hard line seperate from the hose at the caliper so I had to get new hoses too. Autozone told me they could get the passenger side, only the driver, well they are the same. I compared my old ones off the truck and they are identical. The fittings on the end of those hoses are metric M10x1.0 inverted flare. 

One more thing, I cover the new line with split loom in places where I thought it likely to rub. My buddy who was helping said I was crazy lol but it made me feel better. Behind the tank it is all clipped in the holders along the frame though so I didn't need any loom there. Mostly just where it crosses over the frame up front and along the rear axle.

Edited by leathermaneod
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