Let me start off by saying that I am in no way affiliated with Quadzilla or Diesel Auto Power. I was simply asked to test the new updates because I have big injectors, I'm familiar with the Quad, and I know the person doing all of the tuning. This person wishes to remain anonymous, so it will stay that way.

On to the good stuff!!!

So what is V2? Basically it's a way to gain more control over the tuning parameters, with an emphasis on CLEAN POWER. I've got big injectors, and I've driven my own truck enough that I can drive it virtually smoke free, but I have to be very careful with the right petal (even when set to stock)

Here are the custom tuning parameters:

Alright, let's start with the power levels: 
0=stock
1=Power Percent (Explained later)
2=Fuel mileage (Same as the old number 1)
3=can-bus only (Same as old number 2)
4=can-bus + wiretap (same as old number 3)
and so on to the maximum level set is reached.

So, as you can see the first 8 parameters (through "TPS CAN Minimum") are the same as they've always been. They will function just like they used to.

The next two have to do with wiretap fueling. The "Boost Pump Scaling" gives the %specified of called for wiretap fueling if the boost is below the "boost pump low limit"
As an example:(Let's say it's set on level 10) In the pictures you can see I have the scaling set to 0% until 15psi. This means I'll get zero wiretap fueling until I hit 15psi of boost. If it was set at 50% I would get 600us of wiretap before 15psi. 
This greatly reduces the amount of smoke output without reducing your peak power.

Next we have Power Percent. This is the "new" level one! Here we have the percentage of stock power called for at all times. This is perfect to use for emissions testing, letting the wife/kids drive etc. This is also another way to reduce smoke if you're wanting to be really clean. 

Next is boost scaling. This is the same as it used to be. Just a smoothing feature.

Next we have PSI% listed 0-17 in increments of 1. This feature allows you to set the amount of stock power based on boost. It allows you to ramp up the power from 0-17psi, effectively reducing smoke and making the truck more driveable.

 

Now for my experience with testing.

 

Level 1: With my truck stock, I can floor it at any time and create quite a cloud of smoke. You'd swear I have a tuner cranked, but it's not. With my truck set to 70%, I can floor it while doing 55mph in 6th and get as big of a puff as a stock 24V. Meanwhile it'll pull about 34psi @ 2000rpm and 40psi by 2500rpm.  It does make the truck a little doggy, but I could adjust the percentage up as I saw fit and still keep smoke to a minimum. This would be perfect if someone were to borrow my truck (never going to happen but you get the point) They could try to hotrod it as much as they want but won't be able to. I do think this would make emissions a breeze to pass, and it could be used as a safety device to keep the truck from being stolen. Essentially you can set it to 1% and the truck would only idle.

 

Now for the PSI%: With the power level turned up around 1500rpm I can stab the throttle (0psi of boost) and get nothing more than a slight haze until the boost picks up and the quad starts fueling hard. Spool is still excellent under these conditions, I just need to work on my top-end fuel command to reduce the smoke up there. This has made the biggest difference in CLEAN power. The quad is essentially rolling into the throttle for you as the boost comes up so you don't cloud the highway when you get on it. 

Now the "Boost pump scaling" and "boost pump low limit": The wiretap fueling is essentially it's "own" programmer. It doesn't follow the rules of the can-bus fueling. This was taking effect in my description above because it doesn't wiretap fuel for me until 15psi of boost. Thus why it's only a haze until 15psi.

 

Now, what I'm not quite happy with yet. Off idle, if I stab the throttle on level 1 I get a puff of smoke. I am told this is because of where the quad takes over and starts controlling things. It's being worked on and should be fixed soon. Other than that I'm very happy! I do have only 20 miles or so of testing, but this does look very promising. I'll be putting 50 miles on in the morning and 50 miles in the afternoon, so I'll have more info then.

Any questions post em up and I'll do my best to answer them. The future of clean power for 24V's looks promising  

Edited February 13, 20178 yr by Me78569
Changed the title for SEO reasons

on lvl 0?  it jumps?

Level 1. I will have to get a screen shot of it. 

lvl 1 is oem timing,   whats happening is the screen is getting the wrong value ot show you.  No real issue, just a minor bug.

48 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

lvl 1 is oem timing,   whats happening is the screen is getting the wrong value ot show you.  No real issue, just a minor bug.

Something learned today. Be aware that running too high of timing can get the nozzles on the injectors hot. I've been running a total cruise timing of 20.5 degrees or so. I start noticing the last few days after the interstate run the truck has a weird off-beat miss and typically would go away after the injectors cooled a bit in city driving. Now on my way home, I was still getting it after long highway runs. So I back off the cruise timing 2 degrees and the random miss is gone. 

 

Again more timing is not always better. I've noticed now that I backed down the rattle is much quieter and very mellow. (More going to be posted on my thread)

 

I figure I would toss this out on the table so other are aware.

Edited February 5, 20178 yr by Mopar1973Man

great info.  What RPM was it missing at?

overall 20* isn't that much depending on the rpm.

7 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

 

great info.  What RPM was it missing at?

 

 

 

Idle. Only missed at idle after a long run.

 

7 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

overall 20* isn't that much depending on the rpm.

 

At 2,100 to 2,200 RPM's. But as I hit idle it would start to miss at traffic lights or stop signs.

Had to reinstall the driver again to get it to update to standard fuel, not sure why. driver was still there just didn't want to work. 

Sometimes I find that if you just reboot the windows machine again, leaving the Quad unhooked as soon as it boots back up start the flash update software first then plug in the Quadzilla USB cable. Tends to work better. If you plug in the Quadzilla before you fire up the software you get this stupid mode where the software can't see the hardware. Worse yet when I'm flipped back over to the Linux side and call out "lsusb" in terminal and clear can see the Quadzilla.

 

Somedays I wish they had a Linux app... No drivers and no BS. (Dreamin')

21 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Idle. Only missed at idle after a long run.

 

 

At 2,100 to 2,200 RPM's. But as I hit idle it would start to miss at traffic lights or stop signs.

Mine does the exact same thing only now it seems to be more noticeable. Not sure what the deal is but it's almost like it wants to lope at idle.

Back your cruise timing down. Injectors are getting hot on the nozzles from what I can figure out. I bet if you back it down it will go away. Drop one full degree off your cruise timing at least and see what it does if its less the drop one more degree and it should go away. 

 

Might also add 1 degree to fuel load timing. See if that helps too.

Trying to understand the logic. Can you elaborate a ittle Mike.

Your firing the fuel before TDC like my previous timing was 20.5* BTDC so my injectors are small and atomize very well so with the boost pressure adding heat, cetane levels are high for winter fuel. What I think is happening cylinder temperature are higher because it's burning before it gets over TDC. So if you retard timing the flame front will be pushing more on the piston downward than the piston pushing the flame into the injectors as it still traveling up to TDC.

 

Now I'm more like 17.5 to 18.0* BTDC...

Edited February 6, 20178 yr by Mopar1973Man

I could kindof see that but you would think that it would work the opposite way being that when heat is applied to metal it will expand making the orifices smaller.  The only problem I could see here is if they get so small that they cannot fire properly, doubtful though being that they stand up to a massive amount of heat and pressure during the compression stroke. Or potentially could be that the pintle is not able to move as freely so you're getting a bit of a hesitation as the pressure builds and finally pushes the pintle up at a latter point in the stroke effectively showing itself through a lope or miss.

 

Don't you think that the EGTs would reflect your increased cylinder temperature, especially if you were thermal soaked?

 

All of that is using the assumption that this is only when the engine is warm, but I've seen this as well with the truck under 120 degrees.  I mentioned earlier that I planned to adjust my valves again this weekend and this was one of the reasons why.  Just odd that there are two people seeing this now.  I have to wonder is this is truly timing related though because the Smarty notoriously pushes more timing then what we are currently using on the quad and no problems at all have been recorded through the years.  I'm not doubting your theory but I'm not quite convinced that the reasoning is strictly because of timing.

 

Currently I don't really have a good idea on this one but curious to see if anyone else has noticed anything.

 

 

 

 

3 minutes ago, Carbur8tr said:

Or potentially could be that the pintle is not able to move as freely so you're getting a bit of a hesitation as the pressure builds and finally pushes the pintle up at a latter point in the stroke effectively showing itself through a lope or miss

 

 

Exactly.

 

I'm not absolutely sure either, but it is weird how I got the random miss and then just turning down the timing made it stop. All I can say is try it and see. The only thing I can think of is the pintle binding up in the nozzle from the heat soak. Never does it cold. Only after long run of the interstate or highway with about 20-20.5* of timing. 

 

 

So give me EXACT details on when this "lope" happens.  As many sensor input values as possible That will help me figure out what is the cause of it.  

If I see it happen again tomorrow I'll be sure to download a data set for you.

 

I notice it at idle and so far I have yet to find a pattern.

Idle. Vehicle stopped.

 

Just make a 40 to 50 mile run down the interstate with 20-20.5* timing exit the interstate and come to stop. It will randomly miss. Normal idle speed (850 RPM), coolant (195*), IAT doesn't matter, TPS (ZERO), etc. All you need is the A/C to cycle and the miss will vanish. 

 

Drop cruise timing 1-2* and it will not show up. 

So one thing we know for 100%.  since TPS is at 0 the quad is not sending a signal to the vp44.

 

Does the miss come back when ac kicks off?  Or does any load seem to kick it out of its funk?

Any load will kill off the miss. Heavy brake pedal, turn the steering wheel, etc. Soon as the load is gone the miss returns. So it's not exactly a Quadzilla signal issue. It's results after a good long run. Mine usually occurred after exiting the interstate. Now if I pulled into a fuel station to take a leak or grab a soda. Just shut the engine down for less than 5 minutes and start again the miss is gone. The miss is heat related. Then you can drive city streets and not get it at all.