Fed up

[hex0rz]

..and what are you doing in inclement weather situations? You don't want to be using your exhaust brake and causing a loss of traction. 

 

If i start paying more than 30 a rotor for a turn, it's almost worth just buying new rotors. But i was warned about that. The idea of making it cost prohibitive to work a used product over instead of just buying new...

[KATOOM]

If the weather conditions are too slick for the exhaust brake then I'm not only reacting with the throttle and brake much slower but I'm also driving much slower.  So I guess it kinda equals out.

[Mopar1973Man]

2 hours ago, hex0rz said:

 

..and what are you doing in inclement weather situations? You don't want to be using your exhaust brake and causing a loss of traction. 

 

 

 

 

Still use it just stay in higher gear and start earlier. The only time you get into trouble is pulling down through the gears too fast. Like yesterday I showed a friend that I can pull down so hard on dry pavement that I can get it locked up and hopping. So it's all in the manner of how it use and how quickly your down shifting with the exhaust brake on. 

Edited August 6, 2016 by Mopar1973Man

[dripley]

I have never had much trouble with that. You learn quickly how the e brake reacts when you break it loose the first time. Pretty much the same thing you learn when you first drive a regular vehicle in bad conditions. @Mopar1973Man and @KATOOM hit that nail on the head. 

[KATOOM]

Not to "school" anyone, but just pointing out in case some reading may not already know.....clutch braking is very damaging to the clutch disc material by reverse load thrusting the disc which causes rapid wear.  RPM matching and allowing full clutch engagement before decelerating is the proper method of "down shifting".

OK, back on topic.....

[Mopar1973Man]

8 hours ago, KATOOM said:

Not to "school" anyone, but just pointing out in case some reading may not already know.....clutch braking is very damaging to the clutch disc material by reverse load thrusting the disc which causes rapid wear.  RPM matching and allowing full clutch engagement before decelerating is the proper method of "down shifting".

OK, back on topic.....

 

 

Exactly how I drive anyways... 

 

[Wild and Free]

On ‎8‎/‎7‎/‎2016 at 0:05 AM, KATOOM said:

Not to "school" anyone, but just pointing out in case some reading may not already know.....clutch braking is very damaging to the clutch disc material by reverse load thrusting the disc which causes rapid wear.  RPM matching and allowing full clutch engagement before decelerating is the proper method of "down shifting".

OK, back on topic.....

 

On an empty rig it would be of little difference than up shifting but trying this on a loaded rig is very damaging to the center damper portion of the clutch hub itself not the lining.

I have split dozens of trannies where the center clutch hub was pretty much dynamited by using the engine as a brake and shock loading the clutch with 20-30K loads pushing it. Twists the rivets and dampening springs right out of the center of the clutch plate.

[KATOOM]

Just to make clear, in regards to "wear" I wasn't referring to the occasional jarring of load (like Moparman's example) but rather what it does to the lining when someone normally and more commonly downshifts and lets the clutch out without matching RPM's and then forcing the clutch to speed up the engine to match.  Thats the reverse load on the disc material which causes rapid wear on the disc.  Clutches work last longest and work the best with only one direction of kinetic friction placed on them.

If the hubs you described were truly falling apart from shock load or stress then there must be some serious HP or serious weight (or both) being placed against them.

[Mopar1973Man]

I know a few "green horn" hotshot drivers that destroyed a clutch rather quickly from reverse loading of the disc like KATOOM mentions. When you towing heavy loads like 20,000 pounds you cannot just simple clutch in, gear down and ease on the clutch. Because what's happening is your attempting to use the clutch like a brake as you re-engage the friction material. Lot of the fire trucks I drive are older transmissions that either non-syncro'ed or just super old and tired. You learn quickly how to RPM match. It's all about reducing the initial contact stress, once the clutch if fully clamped by the pressure plate then the clutch with withstand the load. Of course as long as you are not gearing down too hard for said load.

Edited August 8, 2016 by Mopar1973Man