leaky brake booster

[Haggar]

The accumulator is held in place by a heavy snap ring.  The accumulator has a heavy spring in it.

 

The C-clamp collapses the accumulator spring to allow you to use the pin hole to push the snap ring and release it.  You might be able to do it by hand, but since I only have 2 hands I couldn't manipulate the snap ring....  it takes 3 hands to get the snap ring out by itself.  The snap ring is a 330 degree wire, so you push one end down, then hook it with a control screw driver or hooked pick.  It will come out.  That is the toughest part.

 

The only other curve ball is how the input rod is attached to the back of the power piston....  In many GM applications this was a crimped ball connection...  Getting the ball out of the crimp took some time and hand made tools.   I think a lot of the Ford and Dodge systems just use a clip or retaining pin.

 

HTH

Hag

[Cowboy]

21 hours ago, dripley said:

I actually found this write up on it on line. Complete with pictures that are being held hostage by Photo Bucket.It was inspirational but not visual.

 

 

Here yar.

 

[01cummins4ever]

So I used the above article for resealing my hydroboost, but it doesn't address replacement of the input rod seals. Reading the instructions that come with the pirate jack kit, it appears that the brake rod on our trucks use the staked design and rod has to be cut or some other way to remove, (I don't want to go thier) or am I looking at this wrong. Anybody got any input on this, I kind of would like my truck up and running this afternoon .

 

I did get the piston seal in, which was the major culprit of my leak, but I do have a sign of small seepage on firewall inside of cab.

[dripley]

Have you had any success? I have been wondering about this ever since I read the instructions that came with my kit. I cant weld so I would have to take it somewhere and have it done. I thought maybe you could thread both pieces and use a rod coupling and lock tight on it if there is enough room. Sure would hate for it to come apart though. I am still  on this one though.

[01cummins4ever]

Yes. I put it back together last night without doing the rod seals, even though I got a welder I didn't want to cut the rod in half, and weld it back and have it look Ike a patch Job. I just replaced the piston seal and the figure 8 seal that mates the two halves together, so far no leaks. 

 

If I was to cut the rod I probably would do a threaded sleeve, and cut some threads on both ends of cut rod, and that would maybe allow you to reuse your original brake light switch by being able to adjust the brake rod out a little, might be worth a shot if you have to replace the rod seals. 

[dripley]

That is where mine is leaking. I have a little while yet before I can do it. I cant seem to find this addressed any where except in the included instructions. Seems some of the remans come with a little shorter rod on them.

[Haggar]

Guys,

You don't have to cut the rod....

 

The staking is very light.  I was able to pop it out with a pry bar.  Just be careful to not make the rod hole into an eccentric (or make it round again when you put it back....) (I slightly eccentriced mine, just used a big tapered punch (like a spud wrench) to make it round again.)

 

Sorry the pic is not focused well.  The rag is covering my vice.  I closed the vice to use as a puller, against a shoulder on the input.  (I think you will see where it is staked it then goes to a larger diameter.)

 

I used a pry bar that fit the hole in the rod really well, then added shims between the pry bar and vice at the fulcrum, to pull the rod straight out. 

 

I am working the pry bar and shims, and my buddy is holding the rest of the hydroboost as I am not clamping it, just using it to pry against.

 

When I put it back together, I just re-staked it slightly with a punch.  After it is installed where's it gonna go?  (It was staked heavy to live through shipping and assembly.)

 

HTH

 

Hag

 

[dripley]

That does help a lot. Thanks.

[01cummins4ever]

@Haggar thanks for posting that. I went ahead and resealed mine without pulling the rod but so far so good, but if I have to go in it again this will help  

[Haggar]

The mind is a terrible thing to waste.....

 

As I was going to sleep last night, I sortof remembered I may have had to grind a bit to relieve stress on the crimp points.  Just using a dremel.  In none of my pictures do I show this, but for some reason I remember it.  I may have had to grind the inside of the staked points to allow assembly without force....  sometimes I wonder why I have a brain at all....

 

Anyway here are a couple annotated pictures I have.  Took me a while to find them.