Boost low, egts high and mpg down

[Dieselfuture]

You can just put a plug in the housing where boost elbow goes in and see if it helps, another reason for poor mileage could be caused by wore out vp 

How is your fuel system all upgraded I hope.

[dripley]

33 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

 

You can just put a plug in the housing where boost elbow goes in and see if it helps,

 

I have never had a boost elbow. I relied on the banks tuner to do the fooling since the waste gate opens at 32 or 33 pounds. Though plugging it would see how high it would go. Without fooling it will set the code. I had to drive mine for near 3 years by the boost gauge to keep the code from setting. Got pretty good at it.

 

As far as the VP causing bad mileage, not sure that sofa is big enough to hide behind, but Mikey does not have house to hide behind.

[oldsilver]

My injection pump only has about 40,000 miles on it, I hope it isn't wore out but anything is possible. It was a reman from diesel injection service in St.louis. I need to check the back of the turbo like diesel future said. As far as my exhaust brake it seems to be working fine but I am considering taking it off and getting a BD Exhaust flange mounted one anyway. The reason I say that is because the turbo mounted one is handcuffing me on upgrading my turbo. Unless somebody has a better idea with the turbo upgrade, I would love not to buy a new exhaust break but I cant live without it.

[Mopar1973Man]

15 hours ago, oldsilver said:

My fuel mileage is down to 11mpg with my camper and it used to be at least 15.

 

Did you by chance have the injectors pop tested to see if the pop pressures are near 310 bar? As injectors wear the pop pressure will fall and the timing tends to get more advanced and spray pattern get crappy.

 

As for the EGT's I still say it going to be a boost leak issue. Another thing it could be is drive pressure leak or exhaust leak before the turbo look for soot marks on the manifold top and bottom for cracks or blown gaskets.

[oldsilver]

Ok will do, and I will take the injectors out and have them tested

I looked at the manifold and I didn't see any soot. I just wonder if the intercooler is leaking somewhere that I cant get to

I thought about getting some bigger injectors when I up graded the turbo but I don't want to make more problems for myself.

[Dieselfuture]

7 hours ago, oldsilver said:

My injection pump only has about 40,000 miles on it, I hope it isn't wore out but anything is possible. It was a reman from diesel injection service in St.louis. I need to check the back of the turbo like diesel future said. As far as my exhaust brake it seems to be working fine but I am considering taking it off and getting a BD Exhaust flange mounted one anyway. The reason I say that is because the turbo mounted one is handcuffing me on upgrading my turbo. Unless somebody has a better idea with the turbo upgrade, I would love not to buy a new exhaust break but I cant live without it.

I had a turbo built by North American Turbo Systems  (Zach (574) 216-5032) it was 800 some bucks and I kept my original one, you can send it in as core for 100. He basically made me 62/67/12 I love it now that I got all boost leaks fixed, and quad pretty close to my liking. It's a hx35/40 with bigger exhaust wheel and compressor wheel, uses hx35 exhaust housing machined out and hx40 housing for inlet to fit bigger impeller. You may want a 62/65/12 but he can do whatever. Still has a 5 bolt flange with 3" outlet for exhaust brake to clamp on. That's why I went with it because I wanted to keep my exhaust brake. Or you can be like @Me78569 and use he351ve it has a built it exhaust break and a 4" outlet, but you'll  need a controller for it. 

Edited October 10, 2017 by Dieselfuture

[oldsilver]

I'm not sure what to do. I don't mind welding the flanges into my exhaust, pac brake does not make a vaccum remote one but BD does. I want to stay with a vaccum operated one. It just sucks its another 1200 bucks. That's pretty close to what my turbo is now I think.

Edited October 10, 2017 by oldsilver

[oldsilver]

What are you guys doing about your stock fuel filter set up with fass pumps. I have been running a stock pump on the frame with no banjo bolts for 15+ years with 12 to 13psi idle and no less than 9 at wot,,usually 10 to 11. But I was thinking about going to a fass system if I could get rid of the stock filter set up but I think the return line runs through it. Any thoughts?

[dripley]

As long as you get a fass with the filters you can bypass the stock filter. The return does not go thru the filter on my 02 and I don't think it does on any 2nd gen 24v. I am sure someone will correct me if i am wrong. My AD came with a pre w/s filter and the secondary after the pump. I did keep the stock canister for the fuel heater but you can just take it out.

[Mopar1973Man]

Only difference, I kept my stock filter as a second stack filter and you'll be surprised how much junk is captured by a Fleetgaurd 10 micron that a Donaldson 3 micron missed. 

[oldsilver]

Do you think I really need a Fass with the pressure I have now. I have been running this set up forever. I always get mixed answers on how much pressure is needed to the vp44.

[Mopar1973Man]

15 minutes ago, oldsilver said:

always get mixed answers on how much pressure is needed to the vp44.

 

VP44 needs 14-20 PSI at all times... 

 

There is 4 ways to kill a VP44...

1. Filtration - Poor fuel filters suggest double stacking and running 2-3 microns
2. Lubricity - Bosch states the fuel lubricity is supposed to be <460 HFRR but all fuel sold today is ~520HFRR (Except biodiesel).
3. Fuel Pressure - 14-20 is Optimal fuel pressure which keeps the overflow valve open keeping maximum return flow for cooling and lubrication needs.
4. AC Noise - Excessive AC noise will damage the PSG on the VP44 and typically create one of the many P025x codes. 

Being my last pump just about made a quarter of a million miles... (243k miles) I'd say I've got a good understanding of what works and what don't.

Edited October 12, 2017 by Mopar1973Man

[oldsilver]

Sounds good to me I will order a Fass set up. What kind of new injectors do you recommend? I run Howes 16oz at every fill up.

Edited October 12, 2017 by oldsilver

[Mopar1973Man]

12 minutes ago, oldsilver said:

I run Howes 16oz at every fill up.

 

Not that great... 2 Cycle Oil scored better. Also the added cetane reduces your BTU content of the fuel.  

 

Right out of the ASTM labs documents...

Quote

The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to insure maximum fuel availability." 

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