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Starting an engine that has been sitting 1 year

015point9
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IBMobile

IBMobile

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You might want to crank it some and get the oil moved around before starting it.  Sitting for a year I'm sure most of the oil is in the pan.  If you're going to change the oil wait till after you start it.  You my also want to check the condition of the engine coolant, not just the strength of the antifreeze but also its Ph. 

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Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

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I've seen engines sit for years and fired up with no issues, watch gauges close. Definitely be a good idea to change oil and even antifreeze if it's been a while. Things turn acidic after time, even if not used, (not new in sealed jug, if it's been ran through the motor reaction starts)

On older gasers you could pull distributor and prime oil that way.

 

This is off subject but while I'm thinking of it I'll :2cents:

Like mentioned PH is very important, and not only in a truck but in our body. For example, viruses and a lot of bacteria love acidic environment. They say, you are what you eat, kinda sorta. So if a guy drinks soda eats fried fast food, lots of acids. Even most of water you drink from bottles bought at store is not good for you. Tap water would be better as it's regulated to a certain standard, most bottled water is not. But there is a catch, a lot of it is fluoridated along with chlorine and most time polyphosphate for corrosion control, ( Flint Michigan happened because of lack of maintaining pH and corrosion protection ) bottom line is our body likes pH of about 7.4 so if you want to stay healthy maintain that. Most bottled water is between 5.5 and 6.5. Cocoa cola cleans battery terminals. Some people choose to drink water with organic pure baking soda, for best results get a pH meter and educate yourself on this subject before eating it by spoon full. Too much of anything is not good. But there are cases of people curing cancer buy keeping pH of their body alkaline,  cancer cells stand no chance in alkalinity but thrive in acid. Please do your own research on this important subject. 

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015point9

015point9

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11 hours ago, IBMobile said:

You might want to crank it some and get the oil moved around before starting it.  Sitting for a year I'm sure most of the oil is in the pan.  If you're going to change the oil wait till after you start it.  You my also want to check the condition of the engine coolant, not just the strength of the antifreeze but also its Ph. 

 

Yes, engine will spin awhile before starting, ran it completely out of fuel and disconnected batteries.  Engine will spin when priming. 

How do to you check PH level?   One time at Cummins dealer they would only sell me a bottle of test strips, (not a couple) so I was there getting anti freeze anyways so I passed.  Being PH levels are the same measurement no matter if testing swimming pool or anti-freeze, can I just use PH test kits from garden dept in hardware store?  

Then I read that some people use volt meter to test PH level, but not as accurate as test strips.  

What do you test PH level with?

 

 

Dieselfuture     

 

Thanks for info.  Sister in law is heavy into eating right

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015point9

015point9

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IBMobile   

 

Thanks for the offer on test strips.  I'm coming up on 4 years, so I'll just change anti-freeze....  Being hoses are really old and have never been replaced; might as well change them also.  Not that I like to spend money but 17 years is pretty good I guess.  Anything I need to be aware of changing hoses (2001 3/4 ton)?  Should be simple I assume...remove old hose and put new one on.  My Cummins dealer moved, now about 15 miles from me.  So going there anyways to buy some oil... so might as well get test strips. 

 

Currently I'm taking a on-line course from Fluke, somewhere they had how to test anti-freeze with a volt meter.  No more than a week ago, but can't find it.  Did find something else they sent me to..."Testing Electrical Systems with a Digital Multimeter"  Don't know if this would be handy for anybody or not but here is link.  Very elementary level I believe. 

 

http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf

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015point9

015point9

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1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

If you do the test strip pay attent to the pH level more so. I see way too many shops here locally just watching the freeze point and people losing radiators and heater cores because the freeze point is fine but the pH is corrosive and eating everything in the engine.

 

Thanks...Called my Cummins place today.  They now have strips in a 4 pack, so I won't have to get a bottle of 50.  

Coolant hoses...any brand better than others.  At work where I retired at they switched to Dayco "gold lable"  belts and hoses.  Unsure if  Dayco gold lable  really better or if someone in corp purchasing had family member working at them? :broke:   

Any recommendations on hoses?

 

Thanks

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deehammer

deehammer

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Just my experience but I used Gates as well and the bottom hose Part #22082 did not fit onto the block.  I tried for 20 minutes to get the sucker to fit.  Finally I read some reviews from people saying that the Gates hose did not fit for them as well.  Found a Dayco at a local parts store fit like a glove have not had any issues for over a year.  Just my experience.

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