Black flakes/particles in fuel tank.

[Leaky88]

Discovered black particles/flakes in my fuel tank. 

I assume this is from BIO fuel.

Wiped what I could reach out of tank as well as residual diesel.

Would like to wash it out in effort to reach crevices etc.

Any suggestion on a cleaner I might use?

Thanks.

 

Leaky

[dripley]

Diesel fuel. It kept it floating in there all these years. Unless it is ridiculously filled with crap or caked on the walls of the tank I would not worry about it. That is why you have a filter or filters. Can you get a photo of it?

[Mopar1973Man]

There could be a reason for the black particles. I've seen a few reports where biodiesel eats the fuel level float. I've seen reports of biodiesel just being a dirty fuel and not properly filtered before sale. Then you could have issues with algae from water content of biodiesel. 

[Leaky88]

Sorry, the BEFORE photo's don't have enough light/detail. I cleaned up all the visible that I could see and reach.  Wasn't anything "caked" per se, just floaties for lack of a better word.

I used a Mighty Mac to suck everything I could out, and then paper toweled/collected particles, and wiped up residual diesel.

I'll leave it like that and call it a qual.

Believe I'll stay way from BIO fuel henceforth.

The bottom of the fuel module (screen) is very dirty.    I have not taken module apart.

 

Do I just compress tabs in the slides to get the basket off?

 

 

Side bar: Friend of mine has a 2006, bought fuel in Cheyenne last week.  Truck stared spitting and stuttering as he headed home on 25.  He initially suspected, his In Tank fuel pump was going.   He, a RR Diesel Locomotive Mechanic removed gas cap and  smelled gasoline in his tank. Said, he added some "quality" transmission fluid to it, it got well, and then he changed out filters.  He cited 2 other instances of cross contamination or the delivery truck making a "mistake".    

[Mopar1973Man]

Might tell the guy to stop with the ATF and add 2 cycle oil instead. ATF is way too high of ash content and can possibly plug injector nozzles.

[Leaky88]

Moparman, 

Thanks.  I will do.  Is there a ratio an unsuspecting victim of gasoline should add?

[Mopar1973Man]

128:1 ratio (1 ounce to 1 gallon) is what normal diesel user would add. So I would most likely double that 64:1 ratio (2 ounces to 1 gallon). Remember 50:1 is what typical chainsaw will run and it protects all the moving part at high RPM's and mixed with straight gasoline. Consider that thought...

Edited November 3, 2017 by Mopar1973Man

[Leaky88]

Moparman,

Thanks. Believe I will have some at the ready...just in case.

 

[dripley]

I have run a lot of bio thru mine over the past several years with no apparent harm to anything. That is at a 20% or less. At 5% or less the seller is not required to tell you. Most of the pumps I see labeled down claim 5% to 20%. Not sure what I am getting then. The truck seems to like it. I might see a little more water in my separator than I did with #2 diesel. Fuel filters last just as long. Just not seeing enough difference to matter to me. One day I will open the tank up and see what it looks like.

 

[JAG1]

Both my second gens have the screens removed and a primary filter added before the lift pump. That's so the clogs can happen in the big filter rather than dropping the tank. Just don't think screens are the best thing as even my JD tractor had screens that were starting to get clogged at only 400 hrs.

JMHO

Edited November 4, 2017 by JAG1

[Leaky88]

JAG1 et al,

By screens, you are referring to the ones at bottom of the fuel module? Like mine pictured above, correct?

I attempted to remove bottom of module by carefully squeezing past 3 tabs, but stopped when I saw it's connected.

If you can't gain access to clean, what are the options?  Buy a new module?  Cut them out? 

As you can see, mine looks dirty, but it was obviously pulling fuel since I had 19-20 psi at OEM fuel/water filter.

My tank is still down and empty. 

Thanks.

Leaky

[Mopar1973Man]

I think so... I would be cutting the screens out and leaving the pickup part there. I also would have to agree I would rather have the filtering done in a bigger removal filter than inside the tank. Trust me I'm not looking forward to doing a fuel module on my 1996 Dodge 1500 because the fuel pump, regulator, filter and sender are all one big pack that goes in the tank.

 

 

[JAG1]

Yes its good to remove the screens with a utility knife cutting them out, but only if you have a primary filter installed to protect the lift pump. That means getting the lift pump outside the tank which is also very good to do.

 

You really need to go to Vulcan performance and buy their half inch fuel lines kit for less fuel pressure drop when towing or running up long grades. It helps the VP last by keeping it cooler.

 

 

Edited November 4, 2017 by JAG1

[Leaky88]

Alright, be patient, I am still building a wrist "watch" here.

 

I want to go ahead and remove the screens since tank is out/dry and I always run a pre-lift filter.

Reason: Pic to far right is bottom of my module.  Not very clear, but I can see zero mesh.

 

First 2 pics L to R are of my module. 3rd is example from some else's mod. 4th is bottom of my module as stated.

 

If I squeeze the bottom of my module, I can work the bottom off to a point, but not all the way.

When I look inside (Limited view) resistance appears to be the 3-prong red item show in 3rd pic to R.

What is it, and do I need it?.

It appears, that if I cut both screens out, there will be nothing left but a "stand-off" for the module.

 

Thanks.

 

Leaky