I’m a Newbie and need help

[Goonas2]

I have a 2000 ram 2500, I bought from a friend and it’s in real good shape but just had a few minor problems.... I have sorted them all out except one, it will start fine when it is cold... then let it run, shut it off and let it sit for about 15 minutes, then it won’t start. I put a new injection pump and lift pump, I have put new fuel filter, fuel pump relay, and just finished replacing all six injectors... I fired it up after bleeding the fuel system, let it run for about 20 min, then tried again to start and it would not start... I’m desperate for suggestions... but I fear I am going to have to submit and take it to a professional... 

 

and what about this bango bolt on the back of the head I’m hearing about... I just took it off... I can’t tell if it’s leaking at all but the rubber around the brass washers is completely gone... and was not at all very tight

[Mopar1973Man]

Got a fuel pressure gauge? If not install one.

 

What is your cranking fuel pressure during this no start condition? Typical cranking fuel pressure is 7 to 12 PSI. Pressures above this can create hard starting or no starting conditions. To test from another way is unplug the power from the lift during a no start condition and attempt to start the engine. If it starts then the fuel pressure during cranking is too high. 

 

Replace the sealing washers. This might be a source of an air leak.

Edited June 15, 2018 by Mopar1973Man

[Goonas2]

Thank you for the quick response... I installed a gauge... during cranking it was showing 12 psi

[Mopar1973Man]

Did you try unhooking the lift pump just for test to see? 

 

The ECM has a way of controlling the lift pump by pulsing the power at 50% duty cycle off and on. This brings down the starting pressure of the lift pump to prevent the VP44 from over advancing the timing during cranking. 

 

Banjo bolt in the back of the head needs to have two fresh sealing washers installed too. 

[Goonas2]

I have not tried unhooking the lift pump... 

 

those sealing washers on the on the back of the head... is that something you can pick up from Napa or is it strictly a dealer item... the dealer did not have them anyways... the pics I saw online of these washers were brass with a rubber insert... the ones I pulled off have zero rubber left and it looks like there was rubber but it deteriorated away

[Mopar1973Man]

How about one of our vendors.

https://www.dieselautopower.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=sealing+washers

 

 

[dripley]

4 hours ago, Goonas2 said:

I have not tried unhooking the lift pump... 

 

those sealing washers on the on the back of the head... is that something you can pick up from Napa or is it strictly a dealer item... the dealer did not have them anyways... the pics I saw online of these washers were brass with a rubber insert... the ones I pulled off have zero rubber left and it looks like there was rubber but it deteriorated away

That rubber is still there. It has just lived past its life. Smashed flat and subjected to a lot of heat. The rubber gets hard after all of that especially on the back of the head.

 All good advise from @Mopar1973Man above. 

[Goonas2]

i am curious if it is possible that theses washers have failed causing the head to lose prime... i forgot to tell this story... yesterday, at about 7pm, I went to check the mail...I walked by the truck, it had not run in about 2 hours... I tried to start it... it fired right up... I let it run for about 30 seconds....I shut it off... walked to my mailbox which is about 100 feet away, walked back to truck, tried to start again and it would not start.... I’m convinced that whatever is wrong with this truck it is simple ??

Edited June 16, 2018 by Goonas2

[dripley]

Mine were the same way when I changed them. The rubber was hard as rock but there. Just smashed flat. Maybe yours was gone, not doubting you. You can get them from DAP, Mike posted the link above, Vulcan performance has them also. A decent diesel shop or Cummins parts house ought to have them also.

[Goonas2]

Thanks guys so much for your advice... I cannot wait to get this truck sorted... body paint and interior are in excellent shape... I have always love these trucks and this is my favorite body style... I paid $4500 for, I think that is a good deal, I have sunk about $1200 in it, so my good deal is evaporating quickly. But buying used is always a gamble

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

To test from another way is unplug the power from the lift during a no start condition and attempt to start the engine. If it starts then the fuel pressure during cranking is too high. 

I will definitely do this test if after replacing the washers does not fix it 

Edited June 16, 2018 by Goonas2

[dripley]

How many miles on her? $4500 from the looks was a excellent deal. Your deal ain't evaporating yet. 

[Goonas2]

297,000 miles.... it hit a horse last year so insurance paid to have it painted so paint is new, I put a radiator in it, steering box, driver’s side hub assembly and six new injectors... previous owner put a new injection pump in it 10k miles ago, it was rebuilt by Taylor diesel in Memphis TN... they have a good reputation so I’m sure the injection pump is good, lift pump was replaced with the injection pump, it’s not FASS unit but it seems to work good, driving it down the road pressure never fell below 12

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

To test from another way is unplug the power from the lift during a no start condition and attempt to start the engine. If it starts then the fuel pressure during cranking is too high. 

I will definitely do this test if after replacing the washers does not fix it 

1 hour ago, dripley said:

That rubber is still there. It has just lived past its life. Smashed flat and subjected to a lot of heat. The rubber gets hard after all of that especially on the back of the head.

Here are the seals... you are so right... I can’t believe there is rubber there... I took a razor knive and cut that small section out to confirm this is rubber... it was so hard, I thought it was brass

[Dieselfuture]

 hopefully you're just losing prime, but kind of weird that it starts first thing in the morning.  does your wait to start light comes on right away when you turn key on ACC and do you wait for it to go off before starting. Also 12 PSI is too low, 14 is minimum, you really want to see about 16 to 19 on average, but that should not be a problem why it doesn't start has more to do with longevity of VP. 

[Goonas2]

Wait to start light comes on... and I agree it is weird... especially when it is running, if I shut it off, I will fire back up instantly... but if I wait a few minutes it won’t start until it cools off

[dripley]

 You got a good deal. Look at prices folks are asking for these trucks. Some are just ridiculous. I saw a guy on CL asking $42k for a 98 12v with 125k on it. Prices are wild on these 2nd gen.

 I know nothing about Taylor Diesel but unless they have the quarter million dollar Bosch test stand to calibrate the pump they did not build it. If they do have one it would be good to add there name to the rebuilders list here. Very few shops have the means to build them. Most shops are resellers of the pumps. But it never hurts to have a someone reputable to put it on unless you do it yourself.

 Those washers look like mine did. I had hard time believing there was rubber on them too, but there was. 

 Since yours is starting fine cold it is most likely not the washers. Could just be a pressure problem.

[Goonas2]

It is possible I misunderstood my friend that I bout the truck from... it could be a simply a rebuilt unit that they sell... he said it was very expensive... I think he said $1500-$2000... something like that

37 minutes ago, dripley said:

 You got a good deal. Look at prices folks are asking for these trucks. Some are just ridiculous. I saw a guy on CL asking $42k for a 98 12v with 125k on it. Prices are wild on these 2nd gen.

 I know nothing about Taylor Diesel but unless they have the quarter million dollar Bosch test stand to calibrate the pump they did not build it. If they do have one it would be good to add there name to the rebuilders list here. Very few shops have the means to build them. Most shops are resellers of the pumps. But it never hurts to have a someone reputable to put it on unless you do it yourself.

 Those washers look like mine did. I had hard time believing there was rubber on them too, but there was. 

 Since yours is starting fine cold it is most likely not the washers. Could just be a pressure problem.

https://taylordiesel.com/ here is there website

[dripley]

Rebults are all you can get, still requires the test stand to rebuild. I looked at there site briefly. I am in no way knocking them. Most places that sell them don't build them, that's all I was referring to. You can buy one now for about grand, that's in the box not on the truck. I bought  Blue Chip diesel pump 8 years ago, they don't build theirs either. Quite spendy, did the install my self. Not difficult.

[Goonas2]

I don’t know... I pray the problem is not the vp

[Guest 04Mach1]

You can go to any truck dealer like Cummins, International, Peterbilt, etc... for those seals. Maybe even try a local independent shop. They are very common seals and are very cheap. Shipping the seals will likely cost more than the seals. I know most head gasket sets come with them also whether it's genuine Cummins or cheap Fel-pro. I got a tool box drawer full of stuff like this but as I said shipping out weighs the cost of seals.

 

As for hard start I would do as others suggested. Disconnect lift pump to see if pressure is too high during crank. If still no start I would loosen at least 3 injector lines at injectors and crank to verify VP fuel output.  If there is little to no fuel from the VP I would suspect failing VP pump. I had a VE 12 valve a couple of months back that started great cold but nothing when warm. Had no fuel output when warm. After I put a Cummins Recon VE pump on it started first crank no matter what temperature the engine was.

Edited June 16, 2018 by 04Mach1

[Goonas2]

17 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

To test from another way is unplug the power from the lift during a no start condition and attempt to start the engine. If it starts then the fuel pressure during cranking is too high. 

Ok...update time!!! I found the sealing washers at a kenworth dealer and re installed the return line... problem still persist.... but... I did... during a no start situation unplug the lift pump and bam... it fired right up!!!! So moparman1973... what next? Wrong lift pump... is pump putting to much pressure? I thought the more pressure the better on these vp44’s??? At a loss on this one... I hope it is easy fix!!! My wife is dogging me saying I bought junk... and I’m like no!!! These things run for ever!!!!!