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hey guys I'm looking for the best compound set up for my truck. Its a 99 24v with 125 hp injectors, headstuds, fass 150, CAI, 4 inch exhaust, iQuad V2 tunes, and a BW 364 sxe. i am curious what would be the best size turbo to use as my big turbo while using my 364 as the small turbo. Also if anybody has recommendations on piping kits that work well with these trucks. I don't plan to do any thing else power wise for the truck after this.

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Ur injectors are to small and turbo to big I'm running a s362 68 14 and I get hot and smoky from the bottom under the turbo I can pull 55 ish psi of boost up top I also made 400 ish at 30 psi of boost at 20 precent load so I figure it's a 500 hp truck also what gears do u have I got 355s and 35s and that doesn't help the reason for the low Dyno load is to try to save imput shaft

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I’m not sure what todo, i was told this turbo by itself will cut egts in half and it didn’t. Then I was told compounds and I’ll never worry about and egt issue ever again. I’ve been told the same thing with changing ring and pinion gears. So I’m not sure what todo or where to go. 

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59 minutes ago, KBecker443 said:

I’m not sure what todo, i was told this turbo by itself will cut egts in half and it didn’t. Then I was told compounds and I’ll never worry about and egt issue ever again. I’ve been told the same thing with changing ring and pinion gears. So I’m not sure what todo or where to go. 

Try tuning some more fuel out with quad, where do you start your canbus at. Also vco injectors are cleaner and not as hot imo. 

 I do hear what you're saying though, my truck ran coolest before I took hx35 off and went to bigger injectors. But I don't think the difference is huge in egt's for the amount of power gained. I would definitely make sure you have zero boost leaks. My truck cruising egt on flat ground are around 600-700 slow inclines it can easily sit at 900, longer steeper grades1000-1100 and if I'm trying to go faster up a grade it will go over 1200, I have my limiter set at1400 but it starts to D fuel just above 1300. Sulphur Towing I'll have to use a different tune that cuts more can bus.

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  • Owner
Quote

37x12.5x17 Toyos

 

The final ratio to the ground is too low. Change the axle gearing and all your EGT's will go away. either run 4.10 or 4.56 gears. Right now your final ratio to the ground is 3.00:1 which is way too tall and the truck is struggling to pull along. 

 

I've already done the study work on tires and ratio impact. On my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 I when from 235's to 215's which is a 30.5-inch tire and now gain more power to the ground and at least +2 MPG. On my truck next I'll be going from 235's to 245's which again is a 30.5-inch tire but it will take my final ratio from 3.55 to 3.69 and during my temporary test run I gain more pulling power, lowered my EGT's and transmission temperatures. Optimal for 3.55 gears is 30 to 31-inch tires. On 4.10 gear 35-inch tires would be optimal. 

 

So if you want lower EGT's and better running truck you are looking at 2 choices...

  • Go back to 31-inch tires to restore the final ratio.
  • Shell out the $4,000 for ring gear sets and have installed. 
Edited by Mopar1973Man
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  • Owner

Do a bit of study work on your gearing it will impact everything about the truck. Optimal gear ratio for the street would be a 3.73 to the ground. Highway running or interstate you're going to want a final ratio of 3.55 to keep the RPM's down. Below this is too tall of a gear ratio. If you going to invest the big money on gears you better of figure out exactly what you going to want. 

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  • Owner

Simple ditch the tires or change ring and pinion gears. EGT problem goes away. 

 

Right now with my setup I can be hitch up grossing 17k to 18k pounds put my Quadzilla on level 3 and mash my throttle to the floor with 7 x 0.0085 injectors and HX35/40 turbo and never reach 1,200*F. I'm also running 31" tires now but soon to drop to 30" tires (245/75 R16) which drops another 100*F off the EGT's and increases torque to the ground. 

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I’m not dropping tire size if there is something I can do about the problem if there is a fix I’d rather fix it and keep the truck looking and riding the way it is. I can change ring and pinion for under a grand or I can throw away a $2,500 wheel and tire set up along with changing suspension components. After changing ring and pinion would you suggest bigger Injectors for my current turbo set up? 

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1 hour ago, KBecker443 said:

alrifht I’ll regear and then upgrade injectors and try to keep you guys updated on what happens. Thank you for your help 

May be cheaper to find a set of axles, for same year or newer AAM stuff. 

I would personally not spend 4k on regearing unless I did it myself for few hundred and axle. I would definitely get newer style axles that are beeffier and redo driveshafts, probably still cheaper. Jmo

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