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Clutch Pedal Distance to Engagement


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Once again I have a odd-ball question to throw out there. My brother was visiting with us on his way back to S.C. and  the 1999 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 24v 5 speed I sold him 3 years ago showed the PO216 code so he left it with me to check out and see if I could sell it for him. It's in great shape inside and out. Much better looking than the 1998 12v I occasionally drive to doctor appointments when my wife can't take me. The 12v is automatic and I have decided to sell it. I thought about buying back the 99 but the clutch pedal has to be all the way down on the floor to start it and put in gear. Is this normal distance on most manual driven Dodges? I'm wearing casts on both legs now to help me walk and stand up straight. My ankles don't bend in the casts and I can't push the clutch pedal down far enough without turning my legs inward which makes it awkward. I would hate to have the clutch pedal slip off my shoes because of this. If there was any adjustment to get the pedal up off the floor I might be able to drive it and if not I will sell it like planned. If I sell both I'm going to look for another truck in better shape than what I have now. The question on that is staying with another 12v or going back to another 24v. Maybe going up to a common rail would be something to consider. The question with the clutch pedal is what's important. If that's the normal range of motion than I will stay with an automatic transmission on the next one.  Thanks for your opinions

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The clutch safety switch will require it to be pushed darn near to the floor to start the engine. Thats why i took mine out. The shifting coul be like Mke explains.

 I wore a boot that went to knee my after tearing my achilles tendon. It completely imobilised my foot and i can see where you coming from. I did not drive much until it healed. Very awkward.

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56 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

No. Not exactly normal. Sounds like the pressure plate or throw out bearing is worn. Could be hydro are weeping air making the clutch travel more.

 

30 minutes ago, dripley said:

The clutch safety switch will require it to be pushed darn near to the floor to start the engine. Thats why i took mine out. The shifting coul be like Mke explains.

 I wore a boot that went to knee my after tearing my achilles tendon. It completely imobilised my foot and i can see where you coming from. I did not drive much until it healed. Very awkward.

I can see pushing it all the way down to start but even putting it in gear requires the pedal to be on the floor. My brother had a new throw out bearing put in but the rest is original. 205K showing. I am not physically fit enough to check the pressure plate so maybe I should pass on keeping it. I have a bone spur on my right Achilles Tendon or beside it which flares up periodically. I can't walk at all when it does, Hell getting old when you didn't plan all of this other crap. Not sure about the Hydro's and if they are leaking or weeping air. There is a ton of new parts all over this truck and that's why I was considering taking it back over. Thanks men for the advice. 

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One more question on the pedal distance, the pedal is on the floor to start and on the floor to put it in gear. Shifting gears on the move is more forgiving but I'm still going past 3/4 of the way down. How far do you have to push the clutch pedal down to put it in gear and the same when shifting? What exactly would I be looking at to see if there is weeping air? Bottle with soap and water? Can I see it standing up or do I need someone to be under the truck looking?

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Mine acts very much the same way. It used to be a little better on shifting but I had a throw out baering going bad and shortened my slave cylinder rod hoping to take some pressure off of it to get it home and replace it. I have gotten used to it though.

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